My carlsson project [Archive] - SaabCentral Forums

: My carlsson project


b.c
08-11-08, 05:17 PM
Thought Id start a thread on my carlsson as im constantly finding things wrong and fixing them as I go
Bought it 2 years ago with 238000 miles on it and it now has 249000 on it
To date I have fitted a new head gasket,alternator, new bilstein hd shocks all round, new lower front control arms, turbo bypass valve, rear discs and various other smaller bits and pieces like getting the vacum hoses going where they are supposed to and unmodding the apc which was overboosting pretty bad, also had just fitted new inner driver, tripod bearing and 4 new driveshaft boots
Anyway im going to have another big job on as my gearbox let go today and its going to be another diy job as im strapped for cash
Future jobs also include repair to the bodykit and hopefully install megasquirt and generally tidy up paintwork and any other bits to prolong the life of it.
Hoping the gearbox will be the last major job to do but I wont compalin too much as I was never happy with it from day one, hard to select 2nd when cold and 5th was very crunchy and did it leak oil!
So im off in search of a gearbox that doesnt have orange silicone and oil popping out everywhere thats not stuck in 3rd
wish me luck:D

b.c
08-11-08, 05:19 PM
Heres the beastie
http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn294/branc_2008/saab.jpg

b.c
08-11-08, 05:26 PM
Heres the oily gearbox pre failure, wonder if it looks any worse now

http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn294/branc_2008/skidplate.jpg

ejenner
09-11-08, 05:41 AM
That's a nice looking car.

Surprised it does not seem to have a full sump-guard? What year is the car? Perhaps 1988? Did they make Carlssons then?
Wish you the best of luck trying to find a good gearbox. In my experience the best ones come from late 900i cars or 900i with single carb... you so often hear of other people buying second-hand or rebuilt gearboxes, fitting them and then crunch, crunch... doh - take it all out again...

ejenner
09-11-08, 05:52 AM
You'll need to take your primary drive off the Carlsson gearbox as it will be type-8 ratio (tall) and your replacement box will be most likely type-6 or type-7 (shorter) - you need the tall ratios on a late T16 as it will rip through gears so quick with a short-ratio box.

I built my own gearbox. Was really hard work but now it's sooo smooth and I fitted an oil cooler and limited slip diff at the same time. I replaced every bearing as well. About 12 bearings in total.

http://www.red-green.co.uk/web/photos/gallery/99t16/full/gearbox_rebuild_005.jpg

http://www.red-green.co.uk/web/photos/gallery/99t16/full/gearbox_rebuild_004.jpg

http://www.red-green.co.uk/web/photos/gallery/99t16/full/gearbox_rebuild_006.jpg

http://www.red-green.co.uk/web/photos/gallery/99t16/full/gearbox_rebuild_009.jpg

http://www.red-green.co.uk/web/photos/gallery/99t16/full/gearbox_rebuild_013.jpg

http://www.red-green.co.uk/web/photos/gallery/99t16/full/gearbox_rebuild_015.jpg

http://www.red-green.co.uk/web/photos/gallery/99t16/full/gearbox_rebuild_020.jpg

http://www.red-green.co.uk/web/photos/gallery/99t16/full/gearbox_rebuild_046.jpg

http://www.red-green.co.uk/web/photos/gallery/99t16/full/gearbox_rebuild_049.jpg

b.c
09-11-08, 06:44 AM
Thats a brilliant looking gearbox ejenner, where did you get all the info on building it?
Im going to ring around tomorrow and see if I can get something sorted to get it back on the road asap as I just taxed it on monday.
The car is 1990 and came with good history but it was on its 3rd gearbox when I bought it and im told it was quite an old one as it has a dipstick.
I would love to build my own gearbox idealy but I believe it takes a long time to build one even when you have done them before.

ejenner
09-11-08, 10:28 AM
I bought the Saab Gearbox manual off eBay. If you're novice then the manual is pretty vauge but it does include the assembly and dissassembly steps and specifications. You need to assemble and dissassemble a gearbox before you really understand what all the different parts are. Took me a while to get to grips with all the components and names of parts and how to assemble and dissassemble.

My gearbox assembly took much longer because I spent lots of time cleaning and painting the casings.

The satisifaction of building your own gearbox and driving the car with the gearbox installed is hard to beat. Feels great. Does not take that long to build a gearbox once you know what you're doing. I think if you cut out all the frilly bits and you know what you're doing then you could build a gearbox in about 5 to 10 hours.

b.c
10-11-08, 11:08 AM
Hopefully I think I might be able to get my hands on a second hand box from a 900i in working condition, had a look at the car today and I reckon it was the pinion bearing that has collapsed as its making a right racket even in neutral
Still have 1st and 3rd but im not chancing driving it.
Is removing the engine and box as a unit the best way to change the box?

ejenner
10-11-08, 12:34 PM
Without doubt. I have seen someone remove a box from below before, but you must have a 2-post jack and get the car up above your head if you want to do it that way. Then you need the workshop tool that can support the transmission while you unbolt it from the bottom of the engine. Big job. Might be slightly quicker if everything goes to plan... but you need a lot more equipment and it's not a way I've ever done it. I always take it all out from the top because I do all my work at home and don't have access to all that professional garage equipment.


I wrote an engine removal guide before: http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=64956

And a guide for changing primary drive:
http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=84568
These are from the FAQ section at the top of the workshop forum.

b.c
11-11-08, 03:12 PM
Good info there ejenner thanks, the second hand box I sourced has type6 primaries and so does the one in the car!
Think im going to try to source type 8 primaries or even 7.
Anyhow im going to have to to it to the garage where ill be working on the car so im going to have to remove the driveshafts first and possibly the front bumper as it cant be towed by that:D
Might repair it and paint it while its off
How is the bumper held on on a carlsson?

ejenner
12-11-08, 04:43 AM
Usually held on with badly rusted bolts.

b.c
12-11-08, 08:58 AM
Usually held on with badly rusted bolts.
like everything else so!:D
anyway are all the bearings for the gearbox easy to get or are they only from saab?
Think I would like to have a go at rebuilding my old box if its not too far gone, would make for an interesting project for the winter months, should be able to sneak it through the house and into my shed when the missus is at work:lol:

ejenner
12-11-08, 11:16 AM
I got all my replacement bearings from local bearing supply shops. I got two from Saab - but only because the price seemed reasonable and not because I couldn't get them elsewhere.

Basically, if you think about it... there are bearings everywhere... loads of things have bearings in them. So it makes sense that there are bearings suppliers all over the place as well. In this country there are even a couple of big firms with multiple branches. So even though my 4-speed 99 gearbox is 30-odd years old... it was fairly easy to get original manufacturer bearings without having to go through Saab to get them. None of the bearings are actually made by Saab and when you dismantle the gearbox you can often read the manufactures name and part number off the bearing.

There was only 1 problem bearing. In this case the bearing Saab used originally was something like 29.5mm outside diameter and the only replacement I could get was 30mm - I had to have the casing opened out the last .5mm to get the new bearing to fit. This was a painless process handled by the local engineering shop. I just had to pay some of their engineering time. The reason I couldn't get the original size bearing was because the bearing manufacturer wouldn't sell the part unless Saab themselves were buying it. Saab don't sell it anymore. So unavailable from either source.

Just FYI though - It cost me around 300 for all the bearings in the gearbox. Give or take... could've been 250 - but you get my point... not cheap.

b.c
12-11-08, 11:53 AM
Good stuff, what about the pinion bearing, is it a special one and are they hard to change?
Hopefully the replacement box I get is ok and lasts long enough for me to build my own, so if a gearbox has all its bearings replaced and any other bits that show signs of wear replaced with good parts as long as all goes well I should have a gearbox that would be as good as a new one.
Btw ejenner what gearbox manual did you buy to do yours, was ot a cd or paper version?
cheers

ejenner
12-11-08, 04:41 PM
I got the official Saab gearbox manual. The main parts of the job are also documented in the thick red 'workshop manual' that covers the Saab 99. Gearbox rebuilds are not covered in the modern Bentley manual. I got mine off eBay - they come up from time to time.

If you were to rebuild a gearbox as you describe then the only parts subject to previous wear would be gear teeth and syncro systems. The only other part that does wear and wouldn't be covered would be the layshaft. The layshaft has needle-roller-bearings running on it in a few places and they eventually wear grooves into the shaft. In my case I pulled out a couple of different layshaft's until I found the best one. It was a 5-speed layshaft so I had to chop a chunk off the end so it would fit into the 4-speed box.

The pinion bearings are easy to get hold of. They're made by Timkin and the bearing shop had no trouble supplying these. They are the most difficult bearings to replace in the whole gearbox.

Here's a picture of what I ended up doing to try and yank the old bearings off the pinion shaft. It's not a pretty way of doing it but it worked. I tried doing other things, hitting, cutting, ect, ect.. but in the end, I used a universal bearing puller kit with modifications (as shown) to get the right pulling force to get the bearing off the shaft. There are other ways to skin this cat... and the special Saab tool you use for this isn't anywhere near as elaborate. This is what worked for me - after trying lots of other stuff.

http://www.red-green.co.uk/web/photos/gallery/99t16/full/gearbox_rebuild_002.jpg


There are also sleeves inside the pinion bearing housing that have to be removed. The pinion bearings run in the sleeves.

After changing the pinion bearings you have to retorque the nut that holds the pinion bearings tight into the housing. You have to do this using a fish scale and a bit of string wrapped around the pinion shaft. You just pull on the fish scale so the string unravels from the pinion shaft and then you check how much force is required to unravel the string from the shaft. There are measurements in the book that tell you how tight the pinion bearings need to be torqued.

The other thing about these gearbox builds is that you need to take some measurements before you dismantle the gearbox. The manual says measure diff backlash (i.e. the amount play between the diff crown-wheel and the pinion gear) and then you should also measure the depth of the pinion gear once the diff has been removed. The diff crown-wheel and the pinion gear are a matched pair and the distances between the parts needs to be preserved and restored when the gearbox is reassembled.

I can't totally duplicate the manual and every bit of gearbox info here... but I think I've briefly covered the major points.

You should take a look at the definitive gearbox thread for some ideas: http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=136416

b.c
13-11-08, 11:42 AM
Lots of great info there ejenner thanks, anyhow I better get my hands on the proper manual etc before I attempt a rebuild, also gotta invest in a few tools first.
So I should have my replacement box in a week or so and ill concentrate on fitting that and see how it goes and then on with the rest of my to do list.

Fix saggy sunroof headlining
Fix dent in door
Replace bonnet(hinges have had it and theres a big dent in it)
Get handbrake working right
Find out whats causing my low mpg(replaced amm still only 21mpg)
Also going to change engine mounts and upper control arm bushes while the engine is out

cheers

b.c
14-11-08, 12:15 PM
Been busy reading loads of threads on gearbox builds, failures and the like and it seems that my gearbox is only suitable for parts due to the collapse of the pinion bearing.
If the car comes to a stop while reversing the pinion bearing is collapsed and the box cannot be rebuilt.
Mine comes to a stop in first also so I guess thats the end of that one.
Anyway I will strip it down and salvage any servicable parts for my planned future gearbox project.
Anyway I might make a start repairing my front bumper, what would be best for holding it together where its cracked mainly each inner sides of the foglight cutout
cheers:D

Murphys001
14-11-08, 06:01 PM
Lots of great info there ejenner thanks, anyhow I better get my hands on the proper manual etc before I attempt a rebuild, also gotta invest in a few tools first.
Just e-mailed you a few gearbox repair manuals, all coutesy of My Saab, your Irish C900 parts specialist. If you decide to foward the manuals, perhaps you forward my contact details with them. Plenty of bedtime reading here!!! Cheers

.

b.c
14-11-08, 07:54 PM
Cheers for that, ill give it a read soon as

KurBads
15-11-08, 06:14 PM
Just e-mailed you a few gearbox repair manuals, all coutesy of My Saab, your Irish C900 parts specialist. If you decide to foward the manuals, perhaps you forward my contact details with them. Plenty of bedtime reading here!!! Cheers

.

would be interested in those gearbox manual, for strictly perosnal use when gearbox time comes ... if possible. Thank`s!

b.c
16-11-08, 12:20 PM
would be interested in those gearbox manual, for strictly perosnal use when gearbox time comes ... if possible. Thank`s!
No problem, just pm me your email and ill send it:D

Bob-900
10-12-08, 06:35 AM
Hey Brandon, how far'd you get on your Gearbox last night after I left?

I'll have to get myself one of these 'Before & After' thread yokes. It seems everyone has one :cheesy:

b.c
10-12-08, 08:28 AM
Got the engine on the gearbox and bolted em together and called it a night after cleaning up the workshop of course:D made a right mess of the place when I took the side cover off to see what went pop so hopefully Dara seen the funny side and im not barred now, second gear is missing quite a few teeth ill post a few pics soon, need to start getting my bumper stuck back together while its off

b.c
11-12-08, 05:04 AM
my engine bay now
http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn294/branc_2008/DSC00185.jpg

b.c
11-12-08, 05:05 AM
Engine and old box

http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn294/branc_2008/DSC00186.jpg

b.c
11-12-08, 05:06 AM
Replacement box

http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn294/branc_2008/DSC00191.jpg

b.c
11-12-08, 05:09 AM
Dara took of the side cover for a look to make sure there was nothing visibly wrong with the replacement box and it looked ok as far as could be seen except reverse looked a little worn so he done the mod that should stop it ever hopping out of reverse

http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn294/branc_2008/DSC00193.jpg

Bob-900
11-12-08, 05:21 AM
Dara's mad inee? :D

Will it be back on the road for a possible Christmas Saab gathering that I'm only just now thinking that we should so have??? ;)

philb
11-12-08, 05:35 AM
Excellent stuff. I really have to get off my *** and sort out my gearbox now. Engine bay looks clean, but you should have a good inspection of it anyway. Take more pictures!

What primaries does the new box have? I will have type 7's available when I get my gearbox swapped.

Bob-900
11-12-08, 05:50 AM
What primaries does the new box have? I will have type 7's available when I get my gearbox swapped.

How do you know what type you have?
I've heard of the Type 7, 8 and 9 and that the type 8 is the most wanted of them all.
Is that right or was that guy talking sh!te?

philb
11-12-08, 06:02 AM
There is a number printed on the gearbox, at the top of the primary casing, something like GM55706.
The third digit indicates the type of primaries.
On my T16S, the gearbox code is indeed GM55706. I've confirmed that they are type 7's by the revs versus the speedo reading. The exact figures escape me right now, but I know that at at 70mph, the rpm's are a few hundred lower than they were at 70mph in my LPT, which had type 6 primaries. I think in my car the revs are just about 3000 at 80mph, and just under 4000 at 100mph.
In my N/A parts car, really wierdly, at 60mph the car was pulling just over 2000 rpm, which would indicate type 8's! So the primaries must have been changed on that car, or a gearbox from a late T16 fitted with the type 8 primaries. I have not checked the gearbox code on it yet.

Theres a lot of info here, including a nice table
http://900aero.com/main/tech_main_tranny.htm

edit - type 9 does not exist. The common types on 900's are 5,6,7,8.

Bob-900
11-12-08, 06:12 AM
I have no idea what mine is but mine revs at 2700rpm when I'm doing 70mph. Sounds around the same as yours would be. Same as my Blue 900 too.

I got an awfull bang ouv the box when selecting reverse yesterday. It felt like someone drove into the back of me. I'm on edge now about my Gearbox since Brandon told me how his went. Ouv no where and stuck solid in the middle of traffic. I would not like that to happen to me.

ejenner
11-12-08, 06:22 AM
You can get type-4 quite easisly on 4-speed boxes as well.

Boxes don't always freeze when they break. It depends on how they fail. My last gearbox failed slowly because I basically just overheated the syncros and they failed. So I lost access to 4th gear and 3rd gear was hard to get. It could be pushed into 4th if you really wanted it... but it needed enough force and trying too hard could've damaged the linkge.

Phil's right - type-9's don't exist.

The longest possible ratio comes from combining a 4-speed gearbox with type-8 primary drive gears. The box will get to not far off 60mph in first. I reckon that'd be good but you have to make sure you've got a fast spooling turbo. My turbo isn't quick to spool and with my combination of type-7's and a 4-speed I end up hanging around for ages while I'm waiting for the boost! Not good. I'm thinking of switching to type-6 - would be just right for my setup I think.

philb
11-12-08, 06:26 AM
2700 at 70 sounds about right to me for type 7's. T16's had 7's or 8's from the factory. Its only if it was changed for a box from an N/A or LPT, and they didn't bother to swap the original primaries over, that you would step down to a type 6.

Was the bang as it went into gear, or did it pop out when you let the clutch out? The first is perfectly normal, it just means you didn't have it lined up right, theres no syncro on reverse so you should line it up by putting it in first before going to reverse. The second would mean reverse gear is worn, you could try the fix brandon mentioned above.

If you are good to the gearbox it will be good to you.. the box in my car was rebuilt at some stage in its life, it was fine when I got it, I babied it for nearly 2 years, and then I decided there was too much paranoia about c900 boxes, so I started giving it boost in first. Funnily enough it started hopping out of first a few months later.

Bob-900
11-12-08, 06:39 AM
The bang (or really loud clunk & shake) was when it went into gear. I took it out straight away to do it again without the bang just cause it scared the sh!t ouv me, but it's been fine since. My box is usually fine and smooth but the odd time it takes a few goes to get it into first gear. And a few times I've gotten a beep or too cause I'm taking to long to move off. But it's never jumped ouv any gear on me.

Brandon's new Box is ouv an N/A so it's probably a type 6.

philb
11-12-08, 06:41 AM
well, do you normally put it into first before putting it into reverse? If you don't do something to line it up, that sort of thing will happen, and its not a fault in your particular gearbox, its the design of it.

Bob-900
11-12-08, 06:52 AM
well, do you normally put it into first before putting it into reverse?

Not usually but I think I will from now on :D

I used to do that in the Blue 900 but that was cause the clutch was on it's way to the bin. I used to have to pump the clutch for about a minute before going for a gear. And the clutch engaged when my foot was 5mm off the floor. It was mad. It got better when it warmed up.

b.c
11-12-08, 07:02 AM
New box and old box have type 6 primaries in them as well as every other gearbox I could find so im stuck with them for the moment.
Reverse on my old gearbox was hard to get and used to crunch and clunk and I thought it would be in a bad way but I had a look and it looks brand new!
That box was rebuilt at some stage but not very well.
Dara is working on the car tomorrow so ill be heading down at some stage and ill bring the camera this time:D
Also putting a new bearing in the flywheel and replacing the crank seal behind it as it was weeping oil.
How hard would the primaries be to change when its all back together in the car?

philb
11-12-08, 09:18 AM
Ejenner wrote a guide here (http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=84568&highlight=primaries+replacement). Not sure how tough it would be with the gearbox in the car. I think it would be doable with the radiator and grill removed.

ejenner
11-12-08, 11:06 AM
I reckon it's possible with the gearbox in the car. Nutcase removed some from a gearbox before... with the gearbox in the car. If it was a like-for-like situation then it's slightly easier as you've got something to hold the gearbox still while you remove the nut on the bottom sprocket. The difference is that with the gearbox in the car you have to remove the radiator and probably the slam-pannel and headlights and bumper if you want really good access.

nutcase
11-12-08, 12:11 PM
I reckon it's possible with the gearbox in the car. Nutcase removed some from a gearbox before... with the gearbox in the car. If it was a like-for-like situation then it's slightly easier as you've got something to hold the gearbox still while you remove the nut on the bottom sprocket. The difference is that with the gearbox in the car you have to remove the radiator and probably the slam-pannel and headlights and bumper if you want really good access.

Yup I reckon it's possible - although when I did mine it was a one way process - the car was being scrapped so the box ended up hanging down and anything in the way was a casualty :lol:

Saabstudent
11-12-08, 12:17 PM
Yup I reckon it's possible - although when I did mine it was a one way process - the car was being scrapped so the box ended up hanging down and anything in the way was a casualty :lol:

And they have worked fine ever since.
Thanks again Richard.
That must have been a few years ago now?

G

Murphys001
11-12-08, 02:47 PM
The bang (or really loud clunk & shake) was when it went into gear. From my experience that is usually a sign of a missing tooth on the reverse gear. Not much to worry about here, although it might be a good idea to remove the rear cover, drain the box and look for pieces of metal attached to the magnetised plate. A crunch when selecting reverse gear is usually a line up problem, selecting 1st or 3rd first usually avoids the problem.

the odd time it takes a few goes to get it into first gear. That could be a gear selector rod (when stationery) being slightly out of alignment. Look at the rubber vibration insulator along the rod between the bulkhead and the gearbox. If you have the later styled rectangular rubber block, these can soften due to oil leaks. The rectangular blocks are easy and cheap to replace. Again, from my own experience, a worn lockpin (also along this shaft) can cause similiar problems, but often you would notice this more when selecting 5th gear. You good always try pulling away in 2nd gear!! This will extend the life of the 2nd gear synchro which is usually the one that fails first.

If you have gear selection problems whilst driving, consider the front engine mount as well.

b.c
12-12-08, 11:41 AM
Didnt make it out to Dara today due to one thing or another, btw Dara is the mechanic who is doing the whole gearbox swap as I dont have the space to do it myself, havent even got a driveway at the minute, also its better to see it done as it should be rather than attempting it myself and making a tits of it:D.
Anyway I started fixing up my front bumper today which was in a right sorry state and had been fixed many times before by the looks of it, mixture of araldite, silicone, fibre glass and filler.
Cleaned off the affected area and got to work with the first bit of fibre glass this afternoon, ill give it a while to harden and give it another few layers over the next few days:D

b.c
12-12-08, 11:48 AM
Heres a few pics sorry for the bad quality camera phone pics, charged my camera yesterday and have no idea where I put it!:nono;



http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn294/branc_2008/DSC00194.jpg

b.c
12-12-08, 11:49 AM
Left side not as bad
http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn294/branc_2008/DSC00195.jpg

b.c
12-12-08, 11:51 AM
New patch no.1



http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn294/branc_2008/DSC00196.jpg

b.c
12-12-08, 11:52 AM
And the other side

http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn294/branc_2008/DSC00197.jpg

b.c
15-12-08, 09:17 AM
Got a good bit done on saturday, engine is now back in, new control arm bushes fitted, new clutch and slave fitted, new rear crank seal fitted(thanks to Richard from my saab for the loan of the special tool and the parts)new flywheel bearing fitted and also the engine mounts:D few pics taken also, first the crank seal tool, this made light work of fitting the seal
http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn294/branc_2008/SL270546.jpg
http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn294/branc_2008/SL270547.jpg

b.c
15-12-08, 09:19 AM
New clutch and slave, couldnt believe how easy these are to fit, obviously harder in the car

http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn294/branc_2008/SL270545.jpg

b.c
15-12-08, 09:20 AM
Fitting clutch special tool to pressure plate

http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn294/branc_2008/SL270544.jpg

b.c
15-12-08, 09:22 AM
engine bay again

http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn294/branc_2008/SL270538.jpg
http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn294/branc_2008/SL270539.jpg
http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn294/branc_2008/SL270540.jpg

b.c
15-12-08, 09:24 AM
Engine in time for a cuppa:D



http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn294/branc_2008/SL270553.jpg

b.c
15-12-08, 09:30 AM
Took this pic of another box from a 900 that was there after suffering catastrophic gearbox failure, nice cutaway view though:D

http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn294/branc_2008/SL270549.jpg

philb
15-12-08, 09:44 AM
Excellent work. Any pics of the new suspension bushes?

b.c
15-12-08, 09:50 AM
Never took any before pictures but they are fitted in the pic above on the left side of the car, the lower control ones, they are a pig to fit without a press so as Dara has one it would have been mad not to fit them and the lhs engine mount while the bay was empty:D

ejenner
15-12-08, 12:05 PM
That's the great thing about polly bushes. Just stick them straight in because they usually come in two parts.

Think it's interesting to see where the box has failed. At the pinion bearing housing.

McVities
19-12-08, 03:57 PM
No problem, just pm me your email and ill send it:D

I'd like a copy of the gearbox manuals if you don't mind? Thanks :D

b.c
21-12-08, 01:30 PM
About those manuals, they are too big to email so im not sure how else to send them, maybe they could be put up somewhere on this site for download?

KurBads
21-12-08, 06:26 PM
About those manuals, they are too big to email so im not sure how else to send them, maybe they could be put up somewhere on this site for download?

see my previous post.
Might be an option if Matthew agrees and copyrights are not violated.

Matthew
22-12-08, 03:07 PM
PM me - I'll host the manuals so that others can download.

b.c
01-01-09, 05:55 PM
Pm sent to Matthew
To date nothing much has been done since I collected the car, great to have a working gearbox again and still cant believe how quiet the replacement box is, old one was quite whiney in some of the gears and crunched a lot especially 5th which was hit and miss, fixed up the bumper as best as I could get it but my aerosol paint job will have to make do till I can afford to spend a few quid on the car again, need to get my replacement bonnet sprayed also.
Would like to sort out my lumpy idle and heavy fuel consumption but im all out of ideas on this one, I have swapped amm, checked fuel pump, new dizzy cap, rotor, plugs etc but its still there.
I dont have a cat or o2 sensor so im not sure where to look next, any ideas?
Happy new year:D

ejenner
02-01-09, 06:50 AM
Seems to be a problem with lots of old Lucas equipped c900's - I used to have this problem with my old T16 and I never got to the bottom of it. It would just sit there 'missing' at idle. This didn't effect the performance. But I have a garage full of spares so I changed everything. Dissy, AIC valve, AMM, injectors, ECU, Coolant temp, throttle switch, bypass valve, knock sensor, coil, ignition leads... and I'm sure a couple of other things. I eventually came to the conclusion that a tiny bit of coolant was leaking into the cylinders and causing the missfire. But I've not opened up the engine or tested compression yet so I don't know if that's the cause. Will know soon enough as the engine is comming out very soon. Car is being broken for parts.

fliptopbin
14-01-09, 07:03 PM
Was going to suggest the ignition leads - worth changing even if they seem to be in tolerance. Don't underestimate the humble vacuum leak either - I had an intermeitten misfire caused by a nick in a pipe. It threw me as I imagined that would always cause the usual dodgy idle and stalling when coming off the gas hard...

Emmett, when you break your T16 will you have the turbo -> APC solenoid pipe going spare or do you have plans for the complete engine?

ejenner
15-01-09, 03:40 AM
I think I have a few of those anyway. You'd be welcome to come and pick one up gratis.

fliptopbin
15-01-09, 02:45 PM
Cheers! :cool:

b.c
20-04-09, 06:01 PM
Cant beleve how long ive been away from the site without posting, to date I got the car through the dreaded nct, was expecting to fail on emissions due to the amount fuel im going through and the lumpy idle but after all ive done emissions are down a lot on the last test.
Anyway the car failed on a bulging brake pipe and a rust hole in the boot which are now fixed.
Next issue im gonna tackle is a rear caliper overhaul, latest set of rear pads are gone after less than 3000 miles so I have new seals and pads on the way, should have done this long ago.