First Saab, '89 900 Turbo Sedan restoration [Archive] - SaabCentral Forums

: First Saab, '89 900 Turbo Sedan restoration


Vitamin J
01-11-08, 03:16 PM
Just the other day I picked up this 1989 Saab 900 Turbo Sedan for next to nothing. At first I thought it was going to be a real nightmare, but she cleaned up real nicely and the problems are pretty minor.

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m131/vitaminjsa/Saab/rightfront.jpg

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m131/vitaminjsa/Saab/leftrear.jpg

No rust from what I can tell. Drives really well, I like it. I've been driving Miatas and Hondas for the last few years and the 4-door with leather seats is a nice change.

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m131/vitaminjsa/Saab/windshield.jpg

It's very straight and clean. It's got a partial history that looks good, from what I can tell it's been well maintained.

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m131/vitaminjsa/Saab/gauges.jpg

The odometer says 187k miles, but it doesn't work. It went out recently, but it'll need to be fixed. Also, the dash lights are out. I'm hoping I have small enough hands to pop in some new bulbs.

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m131/vitaminjsa/Saab/dash.jpg

The top of the dash is cracked and ugly. What can be done here this side of replacing the entire dash?

The engine is only boosting about 4/5s through the yellow on the APC gauge, is that correct? Before I put in a few gallons of 91 and seafoamed it it was only boosting about 1/2 through the yellow. The engine feels strong. It starts up right away and idles smoothly.

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m131/vitaminjsa/Saab/engine1.jpg

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m131/vitaminjsa/Saab/engine2.jpg

The tranny goes into every gear and I haven't heard any whining. Every now and again I feel some teeth in 1st and 3rd, but they haven't popped out of gear. The clutch is kinda "clunky" too. I'm going to replace the fluid for now and check the clutch slave.

Vitamin J
01-11-08, 03:18 PM
The interior is really clean. I don't particularly care for the color, but it's nice.

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m131/vitaminjsa/Saab/frontseats.jpg

The heated seats don't work so I'll have to repair those too.

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m131/vitaminjsa/Saab/rearseats.jpg

This is really the only problem with the paint, I'll see how much can be buffed out.

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m131/vitaminjsa/Saab/hoodspot.jpg


So what should I do first to get this car back into shape? I've seafoamed it, replaced the plugs, wires, rotor, and dist cap. I changed the engine oil and filter and tranny oil. I'm going to flush the radiator and replace the worn hoses, one already popped on me. I'm also going to check and replace all the vaccuum lines.

I've got new tires for it that were layin in my garage and I'm gonna go over the brakes as well. It needs new balljoints and tie rods as well. How should I check the suspension bushings to see if they need replaced?

Also, the power steering does not work. It has developed a leak to where it'll drain an entire bottle of PS fluid in one day. So right now it's manual steering like my Honda :p What should I check first? It needs a new rack I'm assuming, or could the leak be elsewhere?


Also, for sale locally is a pretty beat up '87 900 SPG. It has a blown headgasket, but a rebuilt transmission. I was thinking up picking it up and harvesting the parts off it. Will the shocks, springs, and sway bars fit on my Sedan? Also, should I snag the APC box for more boost? The transmission will work with my newer car as well too correct? Is there any difference between the intercoolers or turbos or exhaust etc?

Thanks for checking it out, I'm excited to start workin on it!

brownie
01-11-08, 03:58 PM
Cool car. I have the 1985 version of yours, but I don't have leather. The color of the exterior is called Rose Quartz and the interior is commonly called burgundy but has an actual name like Bokkara Red [sp?]. The interior color isn't so common, but it will likely grow on you.

Your car, since it's an '89, should already have sway bars, which are the same as SPG sway bars. There's nothing on the SPG that will provide you with better performance, but just about all the parts (minus the body kit) will be compatible with yours, including the rims, if you like that look. I put SPG rims on my sedan. There are a lot of things you can do to your car once you decide what you want to spend and what you want to do.

http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc314/redwheel/Feb12007.jpg

Vitamin J
02-11-08, 02:59 AM
I was hoping the SPG springs would lower my car, and the sway bars are the same size?

I'll most likely buy it anyway if just for the transmission and power steering rack.

I've searched, but couldn't find out the complete procedure for bleeding the cooling system, what is it?

woywitka
02-11-08, 03:42 AM
T16 sedans are rare and awesome. 1985 and 1989 only:p



I had one, loved it....until it rusted. :(


Welcome to SC...and nice car!

brownie
02-11-08, 09:09 AM
I was hoping the SPG springs would lower my car, and the sway bars are the same size?

I'll most likely buy it anyway if just for the transmission and power steering rack.

I've searched, but couldn't find out the complete procedure for bleeding the cooling system, what is it?


SPG swaybars aren't different than non-SPG swaybars. Yes, the SPG springs may be lower, but due to the advanced age of the SPG springs, and for all the effort involved in the swap, most folks these days prefer spending 200 dollars on a new set of lowering springs, like Intrax or similar. But you're right - the SPG springs will fit your car and should be lower.

Bleeding the cooling system is easy. First, bring the car to operating temperature and make sure the thermostat has opened. You can tell it's opened by feeling the lower radiator hose; if it's warm/hot then coolant has been allowed into the radiator by the thermostat. Then, crack the upper portion of the bleeder nipple attached to the thermostat housing. You can put a hose onto the nipple and run it into a container and watch for the bubbles to stop, but I usually just let the coolant come out for a few seconds and then close it. It's not a bad idea to do it again in a day or in a week to purge any residual air bubbles that made their way to the top of the system.

Have fun with your turbo sedan. With the exception of the SPG side body panels, your car can accept the same modifications as any classic 900 turbo or SPG. You should be aware that the wheels from the 1987 SPG likely use the older style bolt spacing pattern, and won't fit your 1989. The good news is that you can use wheels from any 900 or SPG produced after 1987 and also wheels from any 9000, including the 16" types.

Squaab99t
02-11-08, 10:13 AM
[QUOTE=Vitamin J]Just the other day I picked up this 1989 Saab 900 Turbo Sedan for next to nothing.
http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m131/vitaminjsa/Saab/rightfront.jpg

Nice score... I paid full retail about 20 years ago for almost the same exact car, but in cirrus white and tan cloth.


http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/albums/album633/IMG_3534.sized.jpg
Here is a photo link to most all of the projects I've done to the car. It is more desciptive and much easier than typing.
http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/Squaab
As others have said "Welcome to SaabCentral"

Vitamin J
02-11-08, 05:37 PM
Thanks for the compliments guys! ^^Man that car looks good in white! I'm diggin the front lip too.

Today I got the whole car up in the air and checked it out. I definitely need new sway bar bushings, but the others look good. The shocks are worn out and the springs could probably be replaced.

The brakes on the other hand look brand new, there's tons of pad left! I'll also need to replace the passenger side axle, the CV is leaking.

I also checked the compression, it was as follows:
Cylinder #1: 110psi
Cylinder #2: 110psi
Cylinder #3: 115psi
Cylinder #4: 115psi

I also installed a boost gauge, though I'm not sure its working correctly. I think I screwed up the vac hardline installing it. It's only showing 5psi max.

Vitamin J
02-11-08, 10:02 PM
I exchanged the boost gauge and got another. It's working perfectly now. I'm running 4.5psi of max boost and only 1.5psi with the APC unplugged. Where should I start looking for leaks?

brownie
03-11-08, 09:12 AM
You should make sure your turbo plumbing is tight. I'd suggest increasing your 'base boost' to around 5psi. You do this by adjusting the wastegate and then going for a test drive with the APC unplugged.

Vitamin J
03-11-08, 10:38 PM
You should make sure your turbo plumbing is tight. I'd suggest increasing your 'base boost' to around 5psi. You do this by adjusting the wastegate and then going for a test drive with the APC unplugged.
After work today I completely cleaned all the turbo intake piping and the intercooler inside and out. Unfortunately I nicked the MAF wire while cleaning it out, so I've got to get another. Earlier today I adjusted the wastegate and now I'm making 3psi of baseboost. I think i fixed a leak though, so it might shoot up now, can't test drive with the broken MAF :(

I found this hose broken. I have no idea what this canister is for, but I've capped off both lines going to it until I can replace it. It's in the left inner fender behind the headlight under the APC box(?) #1:

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m131/vitaminjsa/Saab/brokenvac.jpg

#2 Also, I've marked a T I've capped because there was nothing connected to it, nor anything I saw that should and it was open. The car drove the same after I did it last night.


Also, I had my spare set of tires mounted up, they fit a little better
http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m131/vitaminjsa/Saab/newtires.jpg



Arrrggg I can't believe I broke my MAF ;oops:

KurBads
04-11-08, 07:43 AM
that`s cruise control vacuum pum an one of the pipes should be bare, i.e., not connected to anything as that`s where sucked air is pused out ... don`t cap it!

Vitamin J
04-11-08, 03:31 PM
Ok, it's uncapped. Any idea what that canister is? It looks like a charcoal canister but I thought I saw that somewhere else.

I installed a new MAF and took it out. The boost leak must have been in the intercooler piping connectors or something, because I immediately blew a whole bunch of vac lines off.

With everything hooked back up I went out and pulled 7.5 - 9.5psi :D I'm sure there are a few more tiny leaks, but it keeps getting better.


Another thing, will the SPG rear spoiler fit on the top of my trunk lid?

Vitamin J
06-11-08, 09:20 PM
I got the car insured and registered, so now I'm all legal. It passed emissions quickly! I was kinda worried it wouldn't because there were leaks and I had capped off a lot of vac lines, but it did! I almost failed on the gas cap, but he tried it again and it passed.

Tonight I made a leak tester and pressurized the intake system.

I found about 5 leaks throughout the engine. At first it wasn't even holding pressure for a second! There was a vac nipple that was just sitting there out in the open, no cap or line. I found a few bad lines which I replaced and a few lines I could just cut the end off and put it back on.

I'm running 10psi consistantly and it spikes up to 11-12 every once in awhile...:lol:

AUSSIE900
07-11-08, 03:09 AM
Well done on getting it on the road , Good stuff , sounds like its progressing nicely . Nice looking car , enjoy .
Re the Parts car SPG , you will find parts cars become an addiction , but In my opinion the way to go .... Be warned tho the parts car may become a project car :cheesy: All the suspension components will fit , the Spg will have a slightly lower (and stiffer) spring, so you will drop some height , Cant recall the variance , may be 20mm .
The *whaletail * spg spoiler will not fit the sedan , different contours on the lid .
Having said that if the whale on the parts car is in good Nick , they are a highly sought after and prized possesion ,

The 87 also has a different wheel stud pattern than the 89 , in case you are admiring the AEROS .

Gearbox is a great spare to have , if the cars the right price ,

Vitamin J
08-11-08, 04:04 PM
Awww bummer, I was hoping that spoiler would fit. I think it would make the rear look a lot better. Think it could be modified easily or is it way off?


http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m131/vitaminjsa/Saab/pressuretester.jpg

So last night I fixed a few more boost leaks. The bungs that hold vac Ts were old and rotted and when I added pressure they would bulge out and leak.
http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m131/vitaminjsa/Saab/bungs.jpg
http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m131/vitaminjsa/Saab/bungholes.jpg

Be careful! When I pulled the bungs out, the bottom lip tore off and fell into the intake manifold! About 20 mins of fishing with an allen wrench later and it's recovered:

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m131/vitaminjsa/Saab/mandown.jpg

I'm now spiking at 13lbs and holding 11+ psi :) I'm also pulling about -9psi at idle. I still have one more leak, the vac tank for the heater controls. I noticed the cap doesn't turn off, but leaks. Is it supposed to leak or can I seal it off?

Vitamin J
08-11-08, 04:09 PM
Today I polished and waxed the car. My buffer somehow broke since I used it last, so I did it by hand (now I know why I like Miatas!).
http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m131/vitaminjsa/Saab/leftfront.jpg

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m131/vitaminjsa/Saab/rightfront-1.jpg

Damn, it needs lowered.

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m131/vitaminjsa/Saab/hood.jpg

The hood spot is still there, hard to see at some angles, obvious as hell at others.

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m131/vitaminjsa/Saab/leftrear2.jpg

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m131/vitaminjsa/Saab/rightrear.jpg


Also, when I went to get it registered, the VIN number I had given the insurance company didn't match the title! I thought I had written it down off the dash and so I was sitting there panicing about this car I had just bought. I played it cool and had the insurance company change the VIN so I could get it registered and figure out what to do. Well, I get back out to the car and to my relief the title matches the dash. It turned out I had written the VIN off the engine! Engine VIN ≠ dash VIN = motor transplant! I was wondering why this car felt so strong with 190k+ miles.

spg1
08-11-08, 04:44 PM
The spot on the hood is from the clear coat missing. What you are seeing is the base color only. You will need to repaint the hood to make it look better. Once you have put wax on the base coat I don't think you can go back over it with clear. Even if you clean it off with a cleaner made for getting wax and silicone off you will still have to sand it before putting the clear on. Now saying that, You can't sand base paint with metallic in it, It will look like crap. So after saying all this, your going to have to live with it until you can repaint the hood.

brownie
08-11-08, 06:15 PM
Awww bummer, I was hoping that spoiler would fit. I think it would make the rear look a lot better. Think it could be modified easily or is it way off?



Rear spoilers are cool, but hold off until you find one that's made for a sedan trunk lid. They come up for sale once in a while. Mine is fitted with the version on bottom left.

http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc314/redwheel/spoilers.jpg

Vitamin J
08-11-08, 06:27 PM
So after saying all this, your going to have to live with it until you can repaint the hood.
Lol, it doesn't bother me that much. I never really have cared about paint scuffs, I sit inside my car ;)

Rear spoilers are cool, but hold off until you find one that's made for a sedan trunk lid. They come up for sale once in a while. Mine is fitted with the version on bottom left.

Yeah I saw that one, but I think the other spoiler would look cooler. I think I could make it fit with a dremel...

ejenner
09-11-08, 03:58 AM
The front sway-bar should be removed. It hurts handling rather than helping it. The ideal setup is slightly lower and stiffer springs and about 1 to 1.5 degrees of negative camber on the front wheels and no sway-bar.

I would recommend you don't buy the SPG just for the springs. They won't be any good. I swapped old SPG springs off my SPG (restoring) onto another c900 and they were terrible. Had to change them again straight away. And they were quite low mileage - only 124k. SPG springs aren't much lower than standard springs. The main difference is their stiffness. I really, really, wouldn't bother using the second-hand springs from the SPG.

Here is another style of Saab boot spoiler not shown anywhere above. This is what I fitted to my saloon when I had it. This is a proper Saab saloon spoiler. But it's hard to find. Cosmetically, I would stick with Saab only - parts... any other rubbish will make the car look cheap and tacky... just wait until the right parts are available... they will come up at some point.

http://www.red-green.co.uk/web/photos/saabpics/9008v/lights_001.jpg

http://www.red-green.co.uk/web/photos/saabpics/9008v/saloon_spoiler_001.jpg

http://www.red-green.co.uk/web/photos/saabpics/9008v/saloon_spoiler_002.jpg

Vitamin J
10-11-08, 09:23 PM
The front sway-bar should be removed. It hurts handling rather than helping it. The ideal setup is slightly lower and stiffer springs and about 1 to 1.5 degrees of negative camber on the front wheels and no sway-bar.

I would recommend you don't buy the SPG just for the springs. They won't be any good. I swapped old SPG springs off my SPG (restoring) onto another c900 and they were terrible. Had to change them again straight away. And they were quite low mileage - only 124k. SPG springs aren't much lower than standard springs. The main difference is their stiffness. I really, really, wouldn't bother using the second-hand springs from the SPG.

Here is another style of Saab boot spoiler not shown anywhere above. This is what I fitted to my saloon when I had it. This is a proper Saab saloon spoiler. But it's hard to find. Cosmetically, I would stick with Saab only - parts... any other rubbish will make the car look cheap and tacky... just wait until the right parts are available... they will come up at some point.
I think I'll be buying aftermarket springs then. I'll leave the front sway bar, just for the anti-roll properties. I already own a Miata and a gutted and slammed Honda so I'm not really looking for performance in this car. I just want it lower for the looks. Besides, it seems to handle very well. I've chucked it through my favorite roads and it was way better than I thought! Also it's fun to slide on the dirt roads :)

I bypassed the air tank for the heater controls since it was leaking. The controls seem to work fine as long as I'm in vac. Will this hurt anything?

That SPG I found for sale has fallen through. He's firm at $500 because that's how much the SPG bodykit is worth at least. I've found a '91 900 Turbo for sale that seems to be in great condition, just no title. Perfect. Hopefully it'll be good enough for a parts car and I'll have myself a dash, tranny, power steering, and some other small things.

On the spoiler front, I found this:
http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m131/vitaminjsa/1980_saab_900_turbo_5dr_rear.jpg
It appears to be a 900 3-door spoiler on the rear of a Sedan. I've seen a Convertible spoiler on the rear of a 900S 4 door with what appeared to be no modification at all! Is the trunk really that much different?

In other news, I'm afraid I'm falling in love with this car and come springtime I won't want to sell it. These seats are comfy, better than in my 1990 Audi and better than my dad's brand new 300C. I'm confident that with new shocks, it'll ride better too.

I've put over 2000 miles on this car since I bought it and I haven't had any problems that couldn't be fixed in 10 mins. Also, this is the fastest car I've owned (straight line ;)) and I'm addicted.

brownie
10-11-08, 09:41 PM
That's still a hatchback, but a 4 door version, which is sort of rare and is commonly called a 5 door.

Check ebay for a rear spoiler made to fit a trunk lid, not a rear hatch; they come up a few times a year and nobody bids them up very high.

ejenner
11-11-08, 06:38 AM
yep - that's a picture of a hatchback. Not a 'sedan' or 'saloon'

Vitamin J
11-11-08, 01:38 PM
Duh ;oops: can't believe I missed that hatch!


I'm going to look at that 91 Turbo today. Are there any parts that will not work with my '89? I'm thinking about just swapping the entire engine into my Sedan instead of just the tranny if this car is in good shape. I also want to take the power steering, dash, gauges, bumpers, etc. Are these years pretty much identical underneath?

Vitamin J
11-11-08, 11:02 PM
I just got home from checking out that 91 I was talking about. It drove really well. If he'll come down $100 I'll be taking it away. It drove so well that I plan on just taking all the suspension/brakes off together and bolting the a-arms into my car. I'm taking the dampers too. The motor was not nearly as strong as mine, and it ticked loudly at idle...it sounded like the plug wires were toast. It wasn't boosting as hard as mine either, which is probably because of the bad spark and leaks. The transmission and power steering felt great so those are both just gettin swapped on. I'll do all the usual tune up stuff to the motor and check the compression, if it seems better I'll swap it too. The dash is cracked just as badly as mine, but at least the gauges worked great.

Anyone see any problems with my plan? Also, anyone know if I can crush a car with no title in Colorado? I'm pretty sure you can't in New Mexico, I'm hoping it's different here.

The spoiler on the hatch looked like it would fit on my trunk. Are you guys sure the convertible spoiler isn't the same as the hatch one? I'm pretty sure the convertible trunk lid is identical to the sedan one.

Squaab99t
11-11-08, 11:14 PM
The spoiler on the hatch looked like it would fit on my trunk. Are you guys sure the convertible spoiler isn't the same as the hatch one? I'm pretty sure the convertible trunk lid is identical to the sedan one.

The convert and the 4 dr sedan trunks are the same. IMO I'd get a rear lip spoiler because it would be more affective. The rear window drops off too quickly for the convert spoiler to do any good.

saabismi
12-11-08, 12:47 AM
The spoiler on the hatch looked like it would fit on my trunk. Are you guys sure the convertible spoiler isn't the same as the hatch one? I'm pretty sure the convertible trunk lid is identical to the sedan one.
Trust me, I wont look good, You can do it, But It just wont look good, Iwe seen a c900 With that spoiler...Yuk.
Nice car Btw:)

Vitamin J
13-11-08, 01:35 PM
Well I love the shape of the hatches with the spoilers, but I'm not so fond of the rear of this car, or really of the sedan spoilers. I can always take it off if it looks crap right?


So its getting to be that time where I'm starting to think about how I'm going to pull the motor. From what I've read the only thing special I need to do is space the front control arms before lifting out the engine. Any other special tools I'll need?

Once I get the motors out, I'll be swapping the tranny over. I'm pretty positive my motor has less miles because the '91 I'm looking at has 170k on the original motor while my '89 has 189k with a transplanted motor. I've done this on Miatas and Hondas and my Suburban. Is there anything I should be aware of before I start taking bolts off?

Also, will the APC box out of the '91 be of any benefit or is it the same box I have?

Any other wise words of advice you guys can give me out of your experiences?

Squaab99t
13-11-08, 02:23 PM
Well I love the shape of the hatches with the spoilers, but I'm not so fond of the rear of this car, or really of the sedan spoilers. I can always take it off if it looks crap right?


So its getting to be that time where I'm starting to think about how I'm going to pull the motor. From what I've read the only thing special I need to do is space the front control arms before lifting out the engine. Any other special tools I'll need?

Once I get the motors out, I'll be swapping the tranny over. I'm pretty positive my motor has less miles because the '91 I'm looking at has 170k on the original motor while my '89 has 189k with a transplanted motor. I've done this on Miatas and Hondas and my Suburban. Is there anything I should be aware of before I start taking bolts off?

Also, will the APC box out of the '91 be of any benefit or is it the same box I have?

Any other wise words of advice you guys can give me out of your experiences?

I think all OEM rear spoilers are bolted on, so that means drilled holes to fill if you decide to install and then take off.
The special spacer tool can be double stack of used brake pads or a one connecting rod cap. Becareful of the tripod bearing on the end of the CV joints. The circlip sometimes gets bumped off and the little needle bearings run off and hide. A real common mistake is leaving the speedo cable hooked up. Won't really hurt anything you will just wonder why the engine seems hung up while you are pumping the hoist. Jack it up about half way and you can loosen the PS and speedo. You can leave the rad and support in but if you take it out it gives you so much more room and less chance of breaking the fan housings.
Same APC IIRC...

Vitamin J
19-11-08, 11:57 PM
How much should the motor move under load? I had my buddy hold the foot brake and work the clutch while I watched the motor and used the throttle. The motor didn't seem to move much at all, and I was putting it under lots of load and jerking it. Also, I didn't hear the "clunking" noise that I hear while starting in 1st and shifting. What should I look for on the engine mounts?

Also recently I had been noticing a wobble while accelerating. I sat on top of the engine and watch while I had my friend drive slowly up the hill and back. It was obvious that the passenger side axle is toast. It was wobbling terribly, shaking the whole engine. It looks as if it might even be bent! I hope the joint is just broken.

Also, what will I need to remove to be able to access the power steering system?

philjohnhb
20-11-08, 03:58 AM
The guys that raced the 2 doors in Sweden used to put Whale Tail Spoilers on their cars so they can be made to fit. I've seen a couple of pictures somewhere and they look OK.

If you are pretty handy at DIY you can cut around a set of SPG panels and make them fit a 4 door, some people have managed it.

I'm sure there will be someone on here who will be able to search out photos.

Vitamin J
23-02-09, 07:45 PM
Its been awhile since I've worked on the old Turbo, I've been busy putting a high compression, oversized valve motor into my Miata.

Over the weekend I replaced the passenger side axle. My clunk is now eliminated and the car is silent! I'm glad the fix turned out to be so simple.

Hmmm, I wonder why it was clunking:
http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m131/vitaminjsa/Saab/axlebusted.jpg

I salvaged a set of junkyard axles that felt pretty tight and had good tripod bearings. Took 3 axles apart to make one complete booted axle.

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m131/vitaminjsa/Saab/all3axles.jpg

Also while I was down here I saw '91 9C written on the lower a-arm which leads me to believe (hope) one of the POs replaced the worn balljoints and bushings with new (used) arms.

Sunday I got started on the interior. I picked up a new dash pad that is in a little better condition than mine which helped make the interior look a lot better.

Old vs. New:
http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m131/vitaminjsa/Saab/dashold.jpg

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m131/vitaminjsa/Saab/newdashmounted1.jpg

Most complicated dash ever!

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m131/vitaminjsa/Saab/dashgone.jpg
Also saw this awesome piece of metal around the steering column and thought I'd take a picture, it's the coolest lookin part on a car I've ever seen:

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m131/vitaminjsa/Saab/sweetmetal1.jpg


I also busted out the odometer and glued the sliding gear back on and now it works great. I contemplated rolling it back a few miles :lol: , but I figured it's been driven enough on a non-working odo:

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m131/vitaminjsa/Saab/odo1.jpg

I also replaced the blower motor while I was back there.

Now my list is down to power steering leak, interior lights, shocks, heated seats, timing chain. I'm also going to buy a cut-off wheel and a spring compressor this weekend :nono;

900t
23-02-09, 07:56 PM
Vitamin I'd set the odometer to 000000 to show the rebirth, pretend you have a new car and feel good :lol:

That thing on the steering column will fold up in an accident, it is designed to not only stop the wheel from hitting you but apparently it should pull the wheel away from you in an accident (or allow itself to slow you down if you hit it).

Saab named Jag
23-02-09, 10:28 PM
That thing on the steering column will fold up in an accident, it is designed to not only stop the wheel from hitting you but apparently it should pull the wheel away from you in an accident (or allow itself to slow you down if you hit it).



Believe me IT doesn't retract the wheel, YOU compress the wheel:( It does do a good job of crumpling up so you don't get impalled though :nono;

Vitamin J
24-02-09, 12:18 PM
Yeah I've seen similar pieces on other cars but they don't look that cool!

I've listed this car locally on craigslist to try and make a little profit. There's a Merc 560SEL up on there calling my name :cool:

I went to a local Saab place to ask about the power steering leak. The guy told me some of the fittings commonly leak, but I was a little lost looking at his computer screen. Can someone here help me out? I'm having trouble locating the leak. Also, what's the best way of going about repairing it?

900t
24-02-09, 03:34 PM
you just gotta look harder, the oil can come from anywhere

Saab named Jag
24-02-09, 06:30 PM
Use a degreaser or engine bay cleaner and clean up the rack. Then the area leaking will be easy to find.

All three of these that I've owned have all been covered by oil and steering fluid, but none ever seemed to be losing fluid. Go figure :suprised;

Vitamin J
01-03-09, 05:56 PM
Oh no!

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m131/vitaminjsa/Saab/anglegrinder.jpg

What I have I done?!

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m131/vitaminjsa/Saab/aftercut1.jpg

:cool:

Breakin5speeds
01-03-09, 11:11 PM
Oh no!

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m131/vitaminjsa/Saab/anglegrinder.jpg

What I have I done?!

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m131/vitaminjsa/Saab/aftercut1.jpg

:cool:


Yeah, what have you done....lucky it didn't blow out in your face and break your arm....looks like you need shock bushings toos

Vitamin J
01-03-09, 11:26 PM
Yeah, what have you done....lucky it didn't blow out in your face and break your arm....
Hahahahaha, good one!

looks like you need shock bushings toos
Yeah, probly

white65
02-03-09, 01:16 AM
http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m131/vitaminjsa/Saab/anglegrinder.jpg

What the %&#@!!!

Are you nuts?

Vitamin J
02-03-09, 09:58 AM
Yeah I am probably a little nuts, though I'm not sure why it is such a big deal to cut a coil off the springs. No one said anything when I said I was going to buy a cut-off wheel and some spring compressors...

Now the car's high front end is slightly lower. The effects are easy to tell. I have lost a little bit of travel, but that's the idea behind lowering a car.

Please explain to me why I am such an idiot.

white65
02-03-09, 03:17 PM
Because there is a huge amount of tension in the spring. You have to be careful enough when removing them with a spring compressor. To just cut them while they are in the saddles under any compression is a recipe for disastor to yourself. The spring could have flew out with such force that it could have killed you.

I have no problems cutting a coil off of a spring to lower a car. Have done it with positive results on some of the Mustangs I have done. You just need to do it the right way, that is remove the spring before cutting the coil.

You still need to compress the spring to get the coil you cut off out of the perch. I would not drive it the way you are showing it, dangerous!

Vitamin J
02-03-09, 03:28 PM
You still need to compress the spring to get the coil you cut off out of the perch. I would not drive it the way you are showing it, dangerous!
DUH!

I used the jack to compress the suspension, then put on the spring compressors, tightened them a bit, and lowered the jack. Then I cut the spring.

Breakin5speeds
02-03-09, 11:24 PM
Then I take back my previous statement :lol:

white65
03-03-09, 03:04 AM
DUH!

I used the jack to compress the suspension, then put on the spring compressors, tightened them a bit, and lowered the jack. Then I cut the spring.

Your pics did not show a spring compressor, just looks like you took your grinder to the coil and cut. And it shows the one coil still sitting in the saddle. So now you have to reinstall the spring compressor to get the excess, cut off coil out!?

Vitamin J
03-03-09, 12:41 PM
Yes the picture shows me holding a grider with a broken cut-off wheel up in front of the cut spring. I cut the coil in half and it fell out. I thought it would be obvious it was a joke picture.

I'm starting to worry about the timing chain now. It's making noise and I just got off the phone with a Saab shop after hearing some scary numbers.

What will I most likely need to replace? The chain and tensioner, but what about the gears?

Where can I get the special tools?


From what I understand, I take the A/C off, take the valve cover off, align the flywheel and cams, and break the old chain. Now how to I get the new chain on? Once it's on I install the last link and reassemble, correct?

TooMany2cvs
04-03-09, 06:22 AM
I'm starting to worry about the timing chain now. It's making noise and I just got off the phone with a Saab shop after hearing some scary numbers.

What will I most likely need to replace? The chain and tensioner, but what about the gears?

The tensioner doesn't need replacing, just resetting. Before doing anything else, take it out and measure the protrusion, so you know whether you do need to replace the chain or not.

If you do, then all you can replace with the engine in the car is the chain, the top guide (in the cam cover) and the cam sprockets. The sprockets on mine looked to be absolutely fine, so I didn't do 'em.

Where can I get the special tools?

None needed.

From what I understand, I take the A/C off, take the valve cover off, align the flywheel and cams, and break the old chain. Now how to I get the new chain on? Once it's on I install the last link and reassemble, correct?

Yup. There's plenty of threads here covering how to do it. Have a search.

Oh, and going back to the first page...

It turned out I had written the VIN off the engine! Engine VIN ≠ dash VIN = motor transplant!

The engine number isn't the same thing as the VIN. They don't match.

AUSSIE900
04-03-09, 06:51 AM
Just putting on the good ole conservative hat O H & S hat ...

Please accept in spirit intended .

Re cutting the coil....

From your comments ( spring compress to unload spring ) you obviously have a clue about what you are doing and the risks you may or may not decide to take .

BUT .. there are many many many people who come to this forum , who openly confess to being totally green re cars and Mechanics ... and use this forum to help guide them ...

Seeing a picture like that may indicate to these people a simple shortcut for removing a spring ... a very common job for a young guy who often has ..Lower the car ...high on his list of Must do's .

I didn't think it was an obvious joke , neither did 2 other (experienced ) posters before me . I initially saw it as stupidity , and fear others may see it as simple way to do a job

Please make it OBVIOUS .. or dont post such pictures ...



Cheers Les

jwandhistools
06-03-09, 01:36 AM
Cool car. I have the 1985 version of yours, but I don't have leather. The color of the exterior is called Rose Quartz and the interior is commonly called burgundy but has an actual name like Bokkara Red [sp?]. The interior color isn't so common, but it will likely grow on you.

Your car, since it's an '89, should already have sway bars, which are the same as SPG sway bars. There's nothing on the SPG that will provide you with better performance, but just about all the parts (minus the body kit) will be compatible with yours, including the rims, if you like that look. I put SPG rims on my sedan. There are a lot of things you can do to your car once you decide what you want to spend and what you want to do.

http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc314/redwheel/Feb12007.jpg


This 4 door is awesome!
I have a black 84 900t 8 valve 4 door that I am adding the mini spoiler to as well.
Already has the SPG wheels.
I might put on a set of 16" Aeros.
Sway bars are next on the list.
Just did the entire front suspension and the car drives like new.

Nice ride.

white65
06-03-09, 12:17 PM
Just putting on the good ole conservative hat O H & S hat ...

Please accept in spirit intended .

Re cutting the coil....

From your comments ( spring compress to unload spring ) you obviously have a clue about what you are doing and the risks you may or may not decide to take .

BUT .. there are many many many people who come to this forum , who openly confess to being totally green re cars and Mechanics ... and use this forum to help guide them ...

Seeing a picture like that may indicate to these people a simple shortcut for removing a spring ... a very common job for a young guy who often has ..Lower the car ...high on his list of Must do's .

I didn't think it was an obvious joke , neither did 2 other (experienced ) posters before me . I initially saw it as stupidity , and fear others may see it as simple way to do a job

Please make it OBVIOUS .. or dont post such pictures ...



Cheers Les

Thanks Les, My point exactly!

Vitamin J
06-03-09, 01:57 PM
The tensioner doesn't need replacing, just resetting. Before doing anything else, take it out and measure the protrusion, so you know whether you do need to replace the chain or not.

If you do, then all you can replace with the engine in the car is the chain, the top guide (in the cam cover) and the cam sprockets. The sprockets on mine looked to be absolutely fine, so I didn't do 'em.

None needed.

Yup. There's plenty of threads here covering how to do it. Have a search.

Oh, and going back to the first page...

The engine number isn't the same thing as the VIN. They don't match.
I have searched and it's hard to separate the instructional threads from the threads where people mention a timing chain.

You say I don't need any special tools. What should I use to break the chain? How do I rivet the last link in? Some people say they can use hammers and others say its much more difficult. Will the connecting link come with my new chain or will I have to buy that separate. From what you've told me all I really should need to change is the chain itself. Good news to hear.

Also, I crawled under the car to investigate a new water leak and found that the water pump is leaking. Perfect time to fix that if I'm doing the timing chain. So should I replace the whole pump or just the seals?

Also, any ideas on why the power door lock fuse would blow when I try to use them? I've been looking for shorts, but maybe there is a common problem I am overlooking.

TooMany2cvs
06-03-09, 02:24 PM
You say I don't need any special tools. What should I use to break the chain?

A pair of bolt croppers or similar.

How do I rivet the last link in? Some people say they can use hammers and others say its much more difficult.

All I can say is that mine's been fine for over a year of everyday use, rivetted with a pair of hammers.

Will the connecting link come with my new chain or will I have to buy that separate.

With.

From what you've told me all I really should need to change is the chain itself. Good news to hear.

All you _can_ change with the engine in is the chain and the top guide.

Also, I crawled under the car to investigate a new water leak and found that the water pump is leaking. Perfect time to fix that if I'm doing the timing chain. So should I replace the whole pump or just the seals?

I'd do the pump.

Also, any ideas on why the power door lock fuse would blow when I try to use them? I've been looking for shorts, but maybe there is a common problem I am overlooking.

Most central locking problems seem to come back to the control box under the dash.

Vitamin J
06-03-09, 04:47 PM
Sweet, thank you!


Here's a recent picture:

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m131/vitaminjsa/Saab/lowered1.jpg


I spent less than 100 bucks on ebay today and bought a new timing chain and water pump. Hopefully I won't run into any snags and can get that done next weekend.

wokke
07-03-09, 05:54 PM
I have searched and it's hard to separate the instructional threads from the threads where people mention a timing chain.

You say I don't need any special tools. What should I use to break the chain? How do I rivet the last link in? Some people say they can use hammers and others say its much more difficult. Will the connecting link come with my new chain or will I have to buy that separate. From what you've told me all I really should need to change is the chain itself. Good news to hear.

Use a small hand drill with a cutting blade (rotational) flywheel. Then use a master link chain and a pair of pliers for the masterlink. I think you can also use a bicycle chain installation tool? I think that the hard part is going to be to get the chain to go onto the bottom sprocket? Unless you have pulled the engine out.

TooMany2cvs
08-03-09, 06:49 AM
I think that the hard part is going to be to get the chain to go onto the bottom sprocket? Unless you have pulled the engine out.

No, it's easy.

Attach the new chain to the old chain with some thick copper wire - basically, make a wire link. Then just turn the engine over (screwdriver in the ring gear), whilst keeping enough tension on both ends of old and new chain to keep them gently taut.

woywitka
08-03-09, 08:22 PM
There are roll in chains available with a slit style link and a little link remover.

THink when you buy a new bike and take it in for a tune up. Some chains require link removal to keep tension coreect so you don't have it vibrating and hitting the frame.

My Saab mechanic has been rolling in chains of 16V engines for years with no ill effects. Many people have brought up that the replacement link is weak; however, I have never seen a thread about a broken timming chain.

2CVs is living proof of a roll in success story.

Yes it is true however that the "correct" method is to take the engine out, inspect the sprockets, guides, and replace the chain by not removing links.


The risk if engine damage if you have half a brain is low. A replcement 16V engine would be easy to come by and worth only a few $100 if not free. Engines that last forever are in low demand and thus are near worthless.

TooMany2cvs
09-03-09, 03:22 AM
2CVs is living proof of a roll in success story.

The risk if engine damage if you have half a brain is low.

I'm probably living proof of that bit, too.

Hell, some days, I'm not even sure I've got that much.

Vitamin J
15-03-09, 07:40 PM
I pulled the tensioner today and what do you know, it was exactly 11mm.

Started pulling stuff off to replace the chain and water pump. Then got lazy...

How do I turn the engine to install the new chain? screw driver in the ring gear? Where's that?

Palmer1980
15-03-09, 08:27 PM
Nice car.


These 4 door C900's are growing on me.




Also, lower it.


:lol:




P.S. I'm cutting a coil off my intrax springs this summer. It will be neat.

jwandhistools
16-03-09, 12:10 AM
Most central locking problems seem to come back to the control box under the dash.[/QUOTE]



Open the hood and look down inside the left fender well just behind the fusebox.
You will see a group of wire connectors(2, 3, and 4 wire).
That group of wires and connectors are connected directly to your power mirrors, windows, locks, sunroof and side marker light.
That group is also wrapped up in a vinyl loom which routinely fills with moisture, road goo, or whatever creatures see fit to live there.
Add to this the terrible quality of insulation used on the wires themselves and well, 10 or 12 wires are now 1 big wire.
My doors used to lock when I would move the mirror adjuster switch.Truth.

Replace as much of that harness as is necessary and you will be happy with the result.
Even my sunroof came back to life when I fixed mine.

jwandhistools
16-03-09, 02:34 AM
Use a degreaser or engine bay cleaner and clean up the rack. Then the area leaking will be easy to find.

All three of these that I've owned have all been covered by oil and steering fluid, but none ever seemed to be losing fluid. Go figure :suprised;


Use fluorescent leak detection dye to find the leaks.
AutoZone sells the whole kit with the dye, lamp and UV goggles for like $15.
Check for leaks in the dark or at least away from sunlight.
The leaks will be quite obvious and extremely easy to pinpoint.

Clean the car thoroughly before you do this.
You might not be losing much fluid, but it sure can look like it.
A teaspoon of oil can make a 12" diameter stain on the ground.
1/4 quart of oil can completely soak the underside of your car.
Add road crud to that and you really get a nice thick crust over the leak areas that will redistribute oil to anywhere and provide a misdiagnosed leak area.
Scrub, scrub, scrub.
The purple power stuff with water and a scrub brush will do a better job that anything in an aerosol can and won't make you sick or stink out the neighborhood.

TooMany2cvs
16-03-09, 03:26 AM
How do I turn the engine to install the new chain? screw driver in the ring gear? Where's that?

The screwdriver? It's probably lying on the floor in the garage somewhere, kicked under the car. Or maybe on the shelf in the house, "tidied away" by 'erself after you had the temerity to put it down whilst using it...

Oh. The ring gear... <g> If it's a turbo, you'll need to remove the boost pipework, then take the plastic cover off above the clutch. The ring gear's the teeth round the edge of the flywheel.

Vitamin J
16-03-09, 08:09 PM
Hahahaha :lol: Saturday I cleaned the garage and organized my tools (turns out I have three 17mm wrenches and three 10mms lol). Now I know where everything is and it should save me a lot of tool-finding time :D

Replaced the water pump just now, started pullin the intake piping. Hopefully the timing chain will be replaced shortly. Then it'll be good for another 100k miles or more, right?! ;)

princeben
07-11-09, 01:50 PM
Nice Restore!

spg1
07-11-09, 09:53 PM
Wouldn't you have to remove the head if you are taking the chain off and rotating the motor? Won't the pistons hit the valves?:o

spg1
07-11-09, 09:57 PM
Wouldn't you have to remove the head if you are taking the chain off and rotating the motor? Won't the pistons hit the valves?:o
Another way would be to pull the spark plugs, and each cam, then the valves would be out of the way and with the spark plugs out you will not have to fight the compression.

jwandhistools
07-11-09, 10:41 PM
Wouldn't you have to remove the head if you are taking the chain off and rotating the motor? Won't the pistons hit the valves?:o
Another way would be to pull the spark plugs, and each cam, then the valves would be out of the way and with the spark plugs out you will not have to fight the compression.


Take the spark plugs out and loosen the valves.
If you don't know that much, I don't recommend you attempt to do any major engine work. I have been doing this nearly 30 years, and I dread the thought of doing my timing chain.
It's not fun, or easy.
It takes skill and knowledge.
Doing it wrong will destroy the engine.

spg1
07-11-09, 10:56 PM
Take the spark plugs out and loosen the valves.
If you don't know that much, I don't recommend you attempt to do any major engine work. I have been doing this nearly 30 years, and I dread the thought of doing my timing chain.
It's not fun, or easy.
It takes skill and knowledge.
Doing it wrong will destroy the engine.

Is your comment pointed at me? Look again, nobody even commented on the point about what he should do. I know what to do, but from what it looks to me, all that was instructed to him was to pull the chain through and rotate the motor. Nobody instructed him to do anything else.
So, instead of criticizing, how about instructing.

jwandhistools
08-11-09, 01:25 AM
Did you actually read what I posted?

spg1
08-11-09, 09:44 AM
Did you actually read what I posted?

Yes I read your post, and you did say basically the same thing I did. In my first sentence, I wasn't commenting like I didn't know what to do, It was to make a statement or rase the question or put up a flag of warning. In my second sentence I gave the remedy. Your response was I, myself or others, shouldn't even be working on cars with no understanding like you with your 30 years of experience. There are a lot of us, myself included that have that much and more, working on these cars and others.
What are we here for? to help those who don't or may not know all that is involved in doing the work on our cars.
If your going to give advice, don't criticize while your doing it, thats my point.

TooMany2cvs
10-11-09, 05:20 PM
Doing it wrong will destroy the engine.

I had no serious problem diving in there and doing it. The only difficult bit was figuring out how to best join the new chain - and that was only because I was trying to over-think it.

I'd suggest that most people have done a cambelt or two before now - just the same, but more frequent - and more likely to break.

StormCrow
14-11-09, 08:12 PM
As long as you've got the tools (always best to remove the engine which sounds daunting but isn't too hard) and are methodical, a full timing chain swap is easy.

I did the lot - guides, sprockets, chain etc after owning the car for maybe a month?