Ok, I think I MIGHT know where the problem is but I dont know WHAT it is. This noise I kept hearing started a few months back. This noise was located under the battery area / maybe in driver side fender. Whenever I started the car until warm up it would go " Whooop Whoppp whop whop" until the car was at proper temp (even in the summer).

I noticed this noise to get very whopp whoopy and more prolonged a few weeks back. NOW it doesnt Whoop anymore and when I start then engine when it is cool the RPMS go to the warm up stage of around 1200rpm but them my electrical power fades (ie dash lights/headlights) and it seems to want to kinda croke on me until it gets through the warming stage.

After the vehicles is warmed up, everything is fine. Now this area im talking about has a Vacuum line (whice I recently replaced) and about a 2 inch hose coming from the engine just below the battery. This noise was in the fender

What your hearing is a bad SAI pump, #1 in the diagram:

http://www.geocities.com/diosnoche_2001/saab/saipump1.gif

Because of its location, it has a tendency to become seized up (sand, dirt, ect). It suppose to activate when you start your engine, it pumps air into the exhaust manifold to speed up CAT converter efficency. When the motor seizes, you'll notice the lights dim in the vehicle as the seized motor will draw so much current it makes the lights dim.

Under normal operation, the pump (motor) will turn off maybe a minute after the engine starts up.

Uh oh...... That 2 inch tube and vac house go to the AIR PUMP switching valve... is the Air pump in the fender? IS that what was going whoop whoop and not whooping anymore? That pump is 475 on eeuro.

If it is this, how would I check the switching valve versus the air pump?

Uh oh...... That 2 inch tube and vac house go to the AIR PUMP switching valve... is the Air pump in the fender? IS that what was going whoop whoop and not whooping anymore? That pump is 475 on eeuro.
Yes the air pump is in the fender area, directly below the battery tray.

If it is this, how would I check the switching valve versus the air pump?

The air pump is simple, simply apply +12volts to the electrical terminal on the pump motor, listen if it starts, believe me, it sounds like a vacuum turning on when its working good, (I had the same problem you are describing).

You guys r the best, thanks! Will check it out maybe tonight or this weekend and get you guys updated.

Also, am I oing damage driving like this?

no, it won't harm anything, its an emissions component, helps CAT work faster during cold startup. Many north american cars don't even have such a device.

Well, just an update. Did a little research on this and it seems this turns on when cold to push air through the cat... emissions. I looked under the hood and foundthe fuse for the pump (G2). Pulled it and it starts fine now..... Is this kosher?

I won't tell if you don't tell:cheesy:

The worst you can do is have the catalytic converter lose several K of mileage lifespan..
When Rhode Island does their inspection, do they check the operation of this device ??

I highly doubt it. Got the sticker last april, they just put the exhaust checker on the back after I had warmed it up. They probably dont even know it exists.:cheesy: