I am now onto another lovely project. the axle end replacement. Both rubber sections are ripped and open.


http://www.eeuroparts.com/searchresults.aspx?&carid=1114&cat=1009

this is a diagram of the right side, i need to know how to do this in order and how does the brake work get caught up in this. I see the disk brakes have a bracket that i am told to be cautious of so i do not brake the calipers.

has anyone done this?

Thank you again all you guys.

Which end of the rubber you need to do? The wheel end or the drive end? In any case. the procedure is the same. You need to take things apart from the drive end.

Keep in mind a rebuilt axle may save you time and hassle.

If you still want to do it, here goes.. Have new boots and clamps ready. Assuming you have the axle removed, use a pair of snap ring pliers to remove the circlip on the end of the axle. Next use a gear puller to pull the tripod bearing out of the shaft. So now you have a drive shaft with the CV joint on one end and the other end there is no obstruction to remove the pair of rubber boots.

The rest should be apparent to you.

i will replace the whole axle end...not messing with the logistics of doing grease and rubber areas.

...how does the brake work get caught up in this. I see the disk brakes have a bracket that i am told to be cautious of so i do not brake the calipers.

You don't have to remove any item in the Brake System to remove the axle.

Remove 3 Ball Joint bolts
Remove one of the two Knuckle/Strut bolts
Remove Axle nut
Remove Tripod Joint Boot Clamp
Remove axle

There are different ways to skin a cat..

If you remove both knuckle to strut bolts you can leave the three ball joint bolts there to remove the axle.

Just make sure to loosen and remove the axle nut before jacking the car up.

i have the car jacked up, the big lug nut, what size is it. i need to buy a socket. and explain in detail what the struts and ball joints are and such. i am newer to all of this, i have no issues with being mechanical, just learning saabs.

If you remove both knuckle to strut bolts you can leave the three ball joint bolts there to remove the axle.

That will work too; I prefer the other way because the Strut still bears the weight of the Knuckle...Six of one, Half-dozen of the other. Notice you still don't have to touch the brakes.

Knuckle/Strut = 2 big bolts at the top of the steering part and the bottom of the springy part.
Ball Joint is under that, at the bottom of the Steering part.

at the fear of sounding like a noobie.....what is the procedure, is there something in writing or with diagrams.

Having just gone thro` the removal of the outer CV joint to get to a damaged boot:
The circlip in the groove at outer end of driveshaft is easy to expand with circlip pliers, but I couldn`t then get the CV to slide off the splines while holding it open. I thought the solution was quite neat - anyway, it worked .
When the ends of the circlip are fully expanded, slide in a drift or punch approx 8-10 mm dia, 6" long or so. MIght get away with the right screwdriver. This holds the end of the circlip wide apart. One tap with a mallet & the CV joint was moving out nicely. I think it helps that the force applied is tight up to the splines. Also - the inner boot can have a worm drive hoseclip in place of the original band - easier to get to with a small cordless screwdriver when it`s all back in place
I don`t like the type of band used on the outer boot - the oetiker?? pattern are better, but no clearance for a worm drive anyway.
Good luck - it`s very messy!

Look at http://www.twinsaabs.com/9000/drive...eps=3&nointro=1 (http://www.twinsaabs.com/9000/drivetrain/step1.asp?nsteps=3&nointro=1)
it`s 32mmm - can get away with 1 1/4" but their technique leaves the hub nut in place.

PS - time passes slowly here in Engand - 3hrs +

i have the car jacked up, the big lug nut, what size is it. i need to buy a socket. and explain in detail what the struts and ball joints are and such. i am newer to all of this, i have no issues with being mechanical, just learning saabs.

The axle nut you need a 32 mm socket. As Jim mentioned, you can leave the brake parts alone. The strut to knuckle bolts you need 17 mm and 18 mm sockets or wrenches. The ball joint bolts are at the bottom of the knuckle (13 mm socket) but i prefer to not touch them.

I think the most difficult part is to get the axle out after you removed the axle nut. Use a 4 pound hammer cushioned with a short piece of 2x4 to knock the axle in after the drive end is disconnected from its socket.

looking at this i have no idea where to start, so here is a pic i see the two large bolts.


<a href="http://s279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/Giomeister/?action=view&current=DSC00419.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/Giomeister/DSC00419.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

aside from these what other bolts.

i am little confused as to which bolts, and the size of the bolts all around. I saw the twin saabs site, but i wanbt to buy the whole axle end.....

can i buy just the cv boot area?

The two bolts in your picture are the knuckle to strut bolts we talked about. The nut is 17 mm. The bolt head is 18 mm. These two bolts are easy. You may have a problem with the 32 mm axle nut if you do not have a 32 mm socket and a 1/2" drive breaker bar. A cheater bar is optional. The axle nut is also one time use. Get a new one.

Still resisiting the idea to get a complete rebuilt drive shaft?

this site looks about the way i need to go.


http://www.twinsaabs.com/9000/drivetrain/step1.asp?nsteps=3&nointro=1

the only questions i have are, how do i remove the caliper? it does not cover it, it touches on it briefly, and please explain this procedure.


they read as such. and i want to take this route since my rubber boots are the concerns,


Now undue the tie-rod bolt. The tie-rod is stuck in the spindle so you must either hammer it out or use a pickle fork to force it out. Either way, you may want to buy an extra just in case you screw up and break the boot or damage the threads.

The spindle is almost ready to be pulled!

Remove the ABS wheel sensor. Sometimes this can be a little difficult as it tends to rust inside the hub. You probably should spray this with some penetrating oil the night before.
again for those who advise thank you.

You do not touch the caliper removing the drive shaft.

I think I posted a procedure removing the tie-rod end ball joint without having to use a pickle fork. Here goes again. You need a vertical cylinder hydraulic jack.

1) Loosen and remove the bottom nut on the ball joint. 16 mm socket. You front wheel should have been removed already.
2) Slip the nut back on the spindle flush with the end.
3) Use the vertical cylinder jack to slowly jack the car up pushing the end of the nut.
4) The ball joint will pop when sufficient weight is on the jack.

ok so here i am again,.....you make it sound easy...but all i see is 3 bolts. the two that are right above the brake...onto the knuckle section.


and the one that looks like a ball joint, with the bolt and rubber ring in place.

atherwise i am not sure what to do with the caliper.......or how to get it off and set to the side, or how to separate the parts to pop it out. I am learning and yes sound silly. But, i have no idea when it comes to names or what you guys refer too.........i want to replace the drive shaft...that much i know, from boot to boot. and yes Yaofeng you are patient with me.

i left one of the knuckle joints in, and shook the axle end a bit one side came out, then on the inside i see a c clip, now time to buy another tool. dam thing is too much fun.

I am a little confused. Which end came out? The drive end or the wheel end?

I take you have not removed the drive shaft yet. The drive end has a snap ring you need a pair of snap ring pliers to remove it. Then you need a gear puller to pull the tripod bearing. This is done after the drive shaft is removed.

If you have not removed the axle nut, you'd better put the drive shaft back into the socket. You can't remove the axle nut with the drive shaft separated on the drive end.

the opposite end of the wheel where the cv joint is is open, and i can see the c clip on the inside of the tore up boot. I am confused then what i must take off, i have the brake pad and caliper still intact, i have removed one bolt from the 2 horizontal bolts above the hub of the wheel and the other end just popped out, i can shimmy the wheel end and get some play with it, and see the c clip.........



please explain because i am lost.

<a href="http://s279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/Giomeister/?action=view&current=DSC00448.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/Giomeister/DSC00448.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

the back area is undone, and the bolt is taken out from the top

Is the drive shaft still in the knuckle/rotor? Because I can't see it in the picture.

i have only removed one bolt. Otherwise tried to loosen the rest and no luck i can see the clip since the boots are shredded, i have the far end away from the wheel pulled out, otherwise, nothing else is apart.

did i royally mess it up?

I think I see the drive shaft is still in the rotor. I was just saying you cannot remove the drive shaft with the drive end separated. You need to put the drive end back into the socket, loosen and remove the axle nut and remove the drive shaft in one piece to work on the bench.

Of course you can leave it in place and change the boot. I think Quasi did it that way on his website. To me that's punishment.

Do I make sense to you?

none at all. What else must i remove to get this done. Put the socket back then?

Let me understand your problem...

The boot behind the rotor is split.

Solutions:

1) You can go through the punishment of leaving the drive shaft in the rotor to replace the boot as Quasi described. Or

2) you can remove the drive shaft to do it on the bench.

I'd do the latter. To do 2), you need to

1) put the tripod bearing back into the socket. You do not need to install the drive end boot.
2) Install the bolt you removed between the strut and the knuckle with nut finger tight.
3) Put the wheel back on. Lower the car.
4) Get a 32 mm socket. Loosen and remove the axle nut with the weight of the car on the wheel.
5) Jack the car up. Remove the front wheel.
6) Remove the two bolts between the strut and the knuckle.
7) Separate the drive shaft at the drive end.
8) Use a piece of 2x4 as cushion. Get a 4 pound hammer to hammer the drive shaft in.
9) Remove the drive shaft to work on the bench.

To get to the boots after the drive shaft is removed.

1) Remove the snap ring at the end of the drive shaft.
2) Use a gear puller to remove the tripod bearing.
3) Remove the small boot clamp to remove the boot on the drive end.
4) Remove both clamps on the CV joint to remove the CV joint boot.
5) Inspect the CV joint. Hopefully the joint is still in good shape you just need to clean, pack with grease and put new boot on.
6) The rest of the installation is in reverse procedure of removal.

call me an idiot, but that made no sense to me, I have the end with the 3 points off, farthest from the brakes. otherwise only one upper bolt off.


I am wondering is there an easy way to do this, like slip boots on. and pack them and put the clips back on, i feel so freaking lost.

i can not get the lower ball joint off, with the rubber rings, extending from the frame of the car looks like a femur bone.......

ok here are the pics taken a few minutes ago. and i am confused because twinsaabs.com had a thing on this and it look alot easier.

the end of the cv boot out,

<a href="http://s279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/Giomeister/?action=view&current=DSC00456.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/Giomeister/DSC00456.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

the end i can not get done the rubber rings are worn badly too...
<a href="http://s279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/Giomeister/?action=view&current=DSC00453.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/Giomeister/DSC00453.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

here is the top bolt taken off,.


<a href="http://s279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/Giomeister/?action=view&current=DSC00451.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/Giomeister/DSC00451.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

and the rubber boot, torn to shred, under this area i can see the c clip, and grab it, but need snap pliers soon to really do it. can i take off the c clip and be done with it and replace the axle?

I think that's how Quasi did it. Check his site. Google it.

But like I said, I never did this way. I remove the complete axle to do it on the bench, as I previously described.

ok then what options, this seems like a pain in the ***.

Do it in place or remove the drive shaft. To me removing the drive shaft is the way to go.

can i replace the boots and clamps and cv grease and call it a day if i have the 32mm bolt off?


the boots are the messed up parts.

If you have the 32 mm axle nut off, you have won half the battle. No. You still cannot replace the CV boot. You noticed the CV boot has the small end on the drive side. So it is removed from the drive side. This means you need to remove the tripod bearing to remove the boot.

There is a two part glued together cv boot available. But I would not use it. If you get grease to contaminate the glue joint the boot is practically ruined.

it is annoying, i went to take the lug nut off, and found it was hard while off the car, and decided to take my metal cutting blade and try to cut it off, the bolt any how. I did not cut the rotor at all. But, that is one stubborn bolt, trying to figure a way to bang the bolt off, and then remove the rotor so i can take the core in.



so i am tired of this task....but, also found the other axle end had a boot ripped.

the never ending....

If you have probelms removing it, you are going to have problems installing. Have you thought about that? The axle nut needs to be torqued to 220 ft-lbs (if I remember it correctly). You will damage the wheel bering if it is not tightened to spec.

I think it is time you invest in one of these,

http://cgi.ebay.com/New-ProForge-3-4-Dr-Drive-Socket-Set-Metric-MM-7-8-2_W0QQitemZ330236510522QQihZ014QQcategoryZ29527QQs sPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

i have a 200 pound torque wrench, however i have soaked it in pb blaster and tried a dozen ways to get it off.


and no luck, getting on is not an issue, i can buy a torque wrench with a higher setting. Otherwise not fun trying to get it off.

and, with the wheel on the ground, attach a 4' long steel pipe (a couple of bucks at Home Depot) to the end of the bar and it should come off pretty easily. Just be careful, if the breaker bar snaps you may go for a ride. The last person to put that nut back on may have used locktite.


i have a 200 pound torque wrench, however i have soaked it in pb blaster and tried a dozen ways to get it off.


and no luck, getting on is not an issue, i can buy a torque wrench with a higher setting. Otherwise not fun trying to get it off.

i have a 3 day weekend coming after friday so time and parts.

I have the bolt cut down...and wonder how do i get it off, would a metal chisel work.

I am getting a newer axle end so not worried about the bolt or anything that is part of that, this is the core i am messing up. The rotors considering look great.

any ideas?

If you have the Dremel cutting discs, it'll take 5 minutes.

i tried the dremel ran out of battery charge, now i have half of the bolt shaved down and the nut is off for the most par, used a metal cutting circular blade.

I am surprised you used the battery driven Dremel cutting tool. I have the corded version.

i had done alot of wood working prior to this project....it worked fine for that

will i need to do an alignment after i put the axle end back on?

No. The only alignment you need to do is when you replace the tie-rod end. Even that can be avoided if you carefully mark the thread engagement before removal.