Martin's T16S ongoing project...

[fliptopbin]

Inspired by Matthew's incredible white T16 thread I'm decided to start my own here.

First of all, let's get things straight. I am no mechanic. In fact the idea of changing the oil terrifies me. I am afraid I am a tinkerer and a chequebook tuner :roll:. Generally when tinkering I break more than I fix, but I live in hope.

Anyway, I bought my black T16S in July 2004 from Dave Parry who was at the time Chairman of the Peterborough area of the SOC (Gripen Saab). Lovely standard 1991MY 90H T16S with 3 previous owners and 116k miles. Leather/suede seats, aircon, etc. Only obvious faults were droopy headlining and driver's door bottom rust.

It was my daily driver until March 2007 when I bought a Eunos Roadster to take the weight off (doing 15k miles a year).

Had a couple of early teething problems with it (Hall Effect sensor died on distributor, and pedal box weld broke on clutch), but after the first year nothing major went wrong. Only things I remember are air con being converted to R134a and the windscreen wiper linkage packing up.

Back in April 2005 discovered the rear shocks were leaking so took the plunge and went for a Bilstein / Kilen setup which held the road much better, but dragged the middle silencer on every speed bump I touched.

I acquired a set of 16" Carlsson alloys in late 2005 and got them on the car Jan 2006 fitted with 195 profile tyres, although they do scrape the rear arches from time to time.

Got a JT 3" exhaust fitted around Feb 2006 which sounded great and helped with the speed bump clearance problem.

In December 2006 got the rear n/s wheelarch repaired as the rust was beginning to show through. Looked gorgeous, but within a month I had a huge (1p piece sized) chip out of it - I suspect one of my ******** neighbours. Thankfully I have moved since.

Recently (before Christmas) I noticed the clutch was biting right at the bottom and it was difficult to change gear without a crunch. All my work up to now has been done by the excellent West Midlands Saab Specialists, but they are on the other side of the country so I have taken the plunge and dropped it off with Rowan at South East Saab.

Unfortunately he seems to have been majorly busy and I have been without the car for over 2 months now, but hopefully has managed to finish it off over the Easter weekend so I will have it for the London to Brighton run next weekend.

I asked him to have a good check over of the car, which he reckoned was in reasonable condition, and came up with the following:


clutch problem caused by wear on master cylinder assembly pivot, enlarging the hole
rust in driveshaft tunnel :(
crankshaft pulley separating needing replacement
engine mount missing a bolt :o
questionable thermostat
bulge in top hose
APC solenoid held to slam panel with gaffer tape (I *may* have had something to do with that :roll::lol:)
oil leak from cam cover
air con not functioning (could have sworn blind it was OK but maybe gas has escaped after not being used for a few weeks)
exhaust manifold gasket leak
uneven tyre wear (edges of front tyres in an "overinflation" pattern - I know about this but it has done it since I changed the wheels and they're not overinflated...
brake fluid / belts need changing
Gulp. Don't want to know what it'll cost :(

Anyway. Was running nicely before that after a full WMSS service in October so here's hoping. I don't think it's been as happy since I've been sharing the miles with my other car :confused:

So, my philosophy for the car has always been for a practical fast road car without hacking about original fittings too much.

Things that I need to do:

Engine/Performance:

900aero APC mod with knock LED. Already have spare APCs but need to determine where base boost is set. I have done a couple of dyno days with poor results (152bhp and 165 bhp after WMSS tweaked base boost). Ideally would like to see 200bhp useable at crank.
Still under consideration are: chargecooler, and replacement recirc dump valve / wastegate actuator.
Suspension:

Change the springs. I don't know what is special about my car but the -25mm Kilen springs make compressions on B roads too much and I often end up scraping the sumpguard when in full attack mode. Also it makes life difficult when I'm using the boot in the way it was intended. Still unsure as to which way to go (see recent thread in "Mods" section). Malbrads OE T16S replacements (sound good but pricey), PFS ones, or go custom...
Bodywork:

Get chipsaway to attack that bloody stonechip!
refurbish Carly wheels (polished lip, silver/grey centres)
get whaletail sprayed and fitted
Get door bottoms welded up
remove rear bumper and attack rust
remove removeable towbar and wire brush/por15
touch up rear wing where hole drilled for old phone mast
waxoyl nasty bits (bonnet corners starting to show signs of rust)
Replace door glass with unscratched ones
Interior:

Get stitching repaired on seats
Headlining (held up with upolstery pins currently!
New speakers front & back, replace wires, new head unit.
There's a fairly complete list of things I have done/had done to the car here:

http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/members/showcar.asp?carId=7201

Since I've been without the car I have missed it like crazy and decided to stop being so lazy and get some of the things on my list done.

The plan is to get the car really nice for the summer season (hopefully for the Bromley Pageant of Motoring).

Anyway, this is more of an aide memoire for me than anything else, just thought I'd post it up.

A picture to be going on with...

http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r80/nicecupoftea_uk/cars/IMG_3418.jpg

[unkleG'sif]

bring it to kodak! :cool:

bring it to kodak! :cool:

bring it to kodak! :cool:

bring it to kodak! :cool:

bring it to kodak! :cool:

bring it to kodak! :cool:


G

[fliptopbin]

:lol:

I have just checked the date and I'm not sure - I'm supposed to be away that weekend and I'm doing loads of car related things in the next few weeks (London to Brighton run, UKSaabs RR day, MX5 Brands trackday, possible other car meet, possible Goodwood Breakfast club...).

It's not out of the question though, we'll see... ;)

[Matthew]

Pah... to hell with all that - bring it to Kodak! :cool: :cheesy:

I'll bring my boost gauge so we can check and adjust base boost on the car :D Might be the wastegate actuator's getting weak and blowing open under boost at higher engine speed - common problem.

I like the plan of attack you have for the car :D

I'd get the rop rad hose replaced ASAP. It'll burst real soon!

More pics please! :cheesy:

[fliptopbin]

A couple more pics:

http://lh6.google.com/martin.grainger/R-b3lTnOQuI/AAAAAAAABds/MjIfPoVO7Pk/s800/DSC_0237.JPG.jpg

http://lh6.google.com/martin.grainger/R-b34TnOQvI/AAAAAAAABd0/_xrkTxFcrUc/s800/IMG_0069.JPG.jpg

Older ones here:

http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/fliptopbin

[Matthew]

How are you getting on with the Toyo T1-R tyres?

[fliptopbin]

Difficult to say really - I went from knackered 15" P6000s / Dunlop SP Sports to brand new T1Rs on 16" wheels :roll:

They don't seem too bad at all, pretty grippy, not too much understeer, good in the wet.

I do seem to be getting a lot of wear on the shoulders of the fronts but I should add a 4 wheel laser alignment to my to do list...

They do look nice though :cheesy: and they're MUCH cheaper than equivalent sized Eagle F1s. I don't really corner the car hard enough to be able to comment on their "on the limit" handling. They do seem very well thought of though.

My only concern is that the load rating is slightly lower than the c900 should have - having said that, I very very rarely run with more than 1-2 people and a small boot load.

Got them from blackcircles.co.uk but my local tyre place has closed down. Since used my local etyres franchise who were excellent and very cheap. Fitted on your drive too!

[Matthew]

They do look good :D

Do you have 205/50s? W speed rating?

[fliptopbin]

I honestly can't remember and I don't have the car at the moment.

They're 195 profile (still get rubbing from the rear arches though) and the speed rating was definitely high enough ;)

[ejenner]

Matthew - the T1's are good tyres. I had them fitted all-round on the beemer before I sold it. Wasn't getting through an MOT without a tyre change. The Michellins which were on it had cracked with age and were a bit suspect wear-wise. Fitting the T1's made a massive difference to comfort, quietness and grip. Hate Perelli P6000's - they get so hard and useless after a very short amount of time. And for some reason (which I can't explain) the tred-pattern really annoys me - probably because it remindes me of useless Perelli's?

[fliptopbin]

Time for a quick update!

Got the car back after nearly 3 months and unfortunately the clutch felt exactly the same. My fears were confirmed and I had exactly the same gear selection issues as before :( I can only assume that he didn't test drive it before returning it. Not really the place to go into it here but it was the final straw - I had to chase repeatedly and more promises were broken and deadlines missed than I care to remember. I always said that if a good job was done and a fair price charged I would be happy, but the main problem that it went in for remained unfixed - meanwhile I missed 3 separate meets :(

Anyway, I couldn't face losing the car again for another indefinite amount of time so nursed it up to the Midlands to West Midlands Saab Specialists. Big thumbs up to them as they fitted it straight in, diagnosed the clutch, replaced it (& the slave/flexi pipe), regassed the a/c (which had stopped working after 3 months of sitting!), and fixed the cruise (pressure switch on pedal must have got dislodged with original clutch work) - all within 3 days! Very impressed with Stuart's work.

Car is a dream to drive again after 4 months being very sick, so I'm going to enjoy it for a month or so before I start to look at some of the wishlist items from above ;)

[S double-a B]

WOW, your car looks amazing :cheesy: I wish that my spg was in that kind of shape.(recently rear ended/totalled). I am excited to watch this project progress though, good work ;)

[fliptopbin]

Thanks :D As said there's stuff that needs doing (rust is my main concern at the moment) but basically a decent solid car I think (certainly hope so as the last six months has cost me nearly £2000 in servicing/repairs and I've only done 2k miles!! :roll:

Just so pleased to have it back!

[Matthew]

Great news :D Three cheers for Stuart!

If you fancy joining some Saab nuts, GWS are at the Whel Nuts event in Stroud on 11th May and Lazy Sunday on 18th May, plus a few others.
http://www.greatwesternsaabs.co.uk/events.html

[ejenner]

So what did they have to do to fix it? Weld up the peddal linkage or was it something wrong with the clutch hydraulic circuit?

[fliptopbin]

Hi Emmett,

It turned out that the clutch was slipping very slightly, but not in the usual "revs suddenly shooting up when you floor it" way, more revs just rising a little more quickly on full bore acceleration. I'd not noticed as it happened gradually and because I'd been gentle with the car!

Feels much better now!

[fliptopbin]

Been a while so a quick update!

Unsurprisingly I have been too busy to get much done on the car until the last couple of weeks.

The air con stopped working within a couple of days but when the pressure switch was shorted the compressor kicks in so I guess there's a leak somewhere. I like a/c so it will have to be fixed! Couldn't find a leak with a u/v light though, and it was charged with dye...

Ever since I got it back from SES it's had on occasional misfire on acceleration (not necessarily full bore) where the power comes in and out very suddenly, like a kangaroo. Not on boost so my first thoughts were ignition, it feels a bit too "digital". Anyway, replaced rotor arm and distributor cap. Felt better for a week but was really giving me some grief on a long drive a few weeks back.

Next thing that happened during that drive was the alt light coming on dimly :o. Had a poke about, cleaned up earth points and alt earth point, used a jump lead to earth alt, etc. Seemed OK when I set out home but after a while it came on brightly, and after a bit more time even revving the engine didn't help... Decided to plough on but had some major misfiring just before the Blackwall Tunnel, and rather than risk blocking the tunnel I dumped it in the central reservation.

A nervous hour waiting for the AA followed:

http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r80/nicecupoftea_uk/IMAG0100.jpg

:o

He duly showed up, chucked in a fresh battery and followed me home (amazing how hot those batteries get when the heat shield isn't there!!)

[fliptopbin]

Initial diagnosis was of course alternator - flat battery, alt light. Definitely not charging as it was a solid 12.4v when the car was running. All connections were good so that just left the alt. Struggled to get it out and decided in the end that just replacing the regulator would be easy and would probably solve the problem.

I elected to remove the v-belt from the alt in the end to aid access, and the regulator came out OK. Pretty clear that it was at least one cause of the problems!

http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r80/nicecupoftea_uk/DSC_3162.jpg

:lol:

Had a bit of a nightmare trying to find a replacement - the Bosch p/n of the one I removed was 1 197 311 022 but I couldn't find anybody who could supply the same part - not ECP, not Saab, not any number of local car factors. Eventually found a place who said they could get it. When they did, it turned up as 029!! Bosch confirmed that it's a direct replacement though so in it went.

Was a bit of a fag to fit - didn't really slot in, but in it went, and after some grief with the belts got it all back together with 14.4v result!!

Quite chuffed to have sorted it myself!

At first I thought it might have sorted the misfire but it did it once more so have now replaced the HT leads too with Bougicords from PFS (although interestingly they seem to be a different p/n from the OE Saab ones). No repetitions so far but we will see. I have a new set of NGK plugs to go in next, followed by a new coil.

[fliptopbin]

Over the last couple of days I decided to get stuck into some of the rust that has been worrying me.

- surface rust in engine bay
- scabs on sills
- door bottoms
- rust beneath lock on tailgate
- rusty removable towbar
- bonnet edges
- bubbles on the wheelarch that was filled and sprayed 18 months ago :roll:
- wiper arms going rusty

Sprayed the engine bay with some thin waxoyly stuff that should stop the surface rust getting worse.

Scraped off the rust scabs on the sills, Kurusted and then used Hammerite rustproofer/undercoat until I can get some Saab black to spray over it.

Unfortunately found this in the LH sill:

http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r80/nicecupoftea_uk/rust%20on%20Saab/DSC_3266.jpg

Slightly alarmed, although I don't think it's structural so will get a bodyshop to weld it up.

Door bottoms - pass door hasn't got any worse so cleaned it up with Kurust and hammerited them. When I have a mo I will fill and spray it as it's only a small hole.

http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r80/nicecupoftea_uk/rust%20on%20Saab/DSC_3267.jpg

driver's door not so good! :lol: Again, cleaned it up and hopefully it won't get any worse. Not too worried as I will get a panel welded over it and at least it's under control now.

http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r80/nicecupoftea_uk/rust%20on%20Saab/DSC_3270.jpg

[fliptopbin]

Poked around beneath tailgate lock and above bumper and made a hole :( Cleaned it up, filled, and sprayed with hammerite.

http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r80/nicecupoftea_uk/rust%20on%20Saab/DSC_3268.jpg

Dropped towbar (most bolts rusted up!), cleaned up and hammerited.

http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r80/nicecupoftea_uk/rust%20on%20Saab/DSC_3274.jpg

Sprayed that waxoyly stuff down the bonnet edges

Left the wheelarch as there's nothing I can do except get a new arch welded in. I'll keep an eye on it. There's also an aerial hole on the RH rear wing that is messy so I will have a look at that at some stage.

Wiper arms - primed and sprayed satin black, a bit messy but better than rust!

http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r80/nicecupoftea_uk/rust%20on%20Saab/DSC_3272.jpg

Did discover a fair bit of rust behind the tailgate lock in the hatch - can't get the lock apart though as the bolts are rusted up. Kurusted what I could and sprayed full of waxoyly gunk.

http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r80/nicecupoftea_uk/rust%20on%20Saab/DSC_3269.jpg

At least my power to weight ratio has improved: :lol:

http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r80/nicecupoftea_uk/rust%20on%20Saab/DSC_3262.jpg

Whaletail being sprayed in the next few days and ready to go on (nuts rusty so can't get rubber bit off so will have to be masked)...

Hopefully getting a/c sorted too.

If you reckon you have rust issues it's worth getting stuck in sooner rather than later IMHO - if it's non obvious places it's easy to do without making the car look crap. Wish I'd got stuck in to that 4 years ago when I bought the car :(

[ejenner]

With the rusty bottom on the doors it is only cosmetic. If you leave the holes there then the water will driain out of the doors better! I've still got those non-rusty doors in the garage... but as you well know at this stage... you wouldn't get a colour match if you were to fit them!

[RickyS]

Door bottoms - pass door hasn't got any worse so cleaned it up with Kurust and hammerited them. When I have a mo I will fill and spray it as it's only a small hole.

http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r80/nicecupoftea_uk/rust%20on%20Saab/DSC_3267.jpg

driver's door not so good! :lol: Again, cleaned it up and hopefully it won't get any worse. Not too worried as I will get a panel welded over it and at least it's under control now.

http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r80/nicecupoftea_uk/rust%20on%20Saab/DSC_3270.jpg

Rust is a never ending problem. If you do not cut out all the rusty metal, the rust will return very soon, despite Kurust treatment.

It is a good idead to remove the rubber trim on the door bottom before starting the job. The rivets can be drilled out.

[fliptopbin]

I know, it's a constant battle! I'm not so worried about the panels that can be replaced. We did actually remove the rubber strip on the driver's door (you can see the rivets have been replaced with bolts & nuts).

Emmett, yes I did think about replacing the doors but I would rather live with holes than fight with the window mechanism and swap all the other stuff over, especially as the colour would never match as you say!

Reckon that sill will be OK with a plate or two?

[Saabstudent]

Martin,
Nice to see you have a thread on here.
Think i might have to add another 'cheque-book' tuner one myself... :cheesy:

G

[ejenner]

should be ok as it's not structural. It'll never show as the aero kit covers the outside.

[fliptopbin]

Update - the car is haemorraging money at the moment :(

Traced the a/c to a broken pipe between the receiver/dryer and condensor - fortunately replacement of it didn't fracture anything else. Still not sure how it happened. It was fine before it got laid up at a garage who was supposed to be doing some work :( Doors are now welded up as is the hole in the n/s sill. Front engine mount needed replacement as well.

Can't remember if I mentioned the misfire (especially when cold) since I got it back from that garage where it was laid up. Have replaced plugs, leads, rotor arm, distributor cap and even the coil. Although it seems better it still does it from time to time.

Speaking to WMSS about it they said that it can sometimes be a symptom of internal HG failure with coolant leaking into the cylinders. I have noticed that the coolant level will drop over a few months (has done for a couple of years) so I think I will probably get the HG done as a preventative measure. Leak test didn't show any problems though - at the moment :o

Of course now I am staring at the rear view mirror like an idiot waiting for the first sign of white smoke and only going anywhere on half throttle :(

I love the car but I could have run a TVR on what the 900 has cost me over the last year - and I have only done 3000 miles in it!

Didn't get the whaletail sprayed as it was a stupid price, will wait for a black one and sell my grey one to fund it I think...

More as and when...

[ejenner]

can do a compression test on it at Kodak if you want.

[fliptopbin]

Cheers, Emmett - hope to be there.

Is that the same as a leak test? Had one done yesterday and came out OK... Getting a bit antsy about driving it at all now :roll:

[ejenner]

Nope. Different. One tests to see if the coolant system can hold pressure and the other is to see if the combustion chambers can hold pressure.

My red 900 has similar problems to what you're having with your car except it's been like that for 2 years.

[Norskiglass9-5]

Very nice 9! ~Just like my last 88' considering I had 6 of them lol! ~I really admired the black one however it was dubbed the "ticket gidder" I was offered it as a buy back a couple months ago and flipping thru the forum here makes me a little sad that I parted with it!

Have you worked with any resin or cloth for restoration?

[fliptopbin]

Time for an update!

I last posted just before Kodak in October - well I went to Kodak and did a compression test (thanks Emmett and Matthew!) which came out good.

Had some screeching coming from the belts which it turned out came from the alt V-belt - clearly I hadn't torqued up the alternator up enough after changing the regulator ;oops: Since then have had a whine coming from behind the bulkhead - could be the alt bearings I suppose but nobody else has noticed anything unusual so I may just be being paranoid.

Went to WMSS for MOT / Service / possible head gasket job at the end of October - the loss of water was down to a cracked header tank (phew!) and the cooling fan sender wiring was knackered which explained the occasional overheating I was getting. Some water ingress to footwell traced to a blocked aircon pipe. Needed front flexi brake hoses and a wheel bearing for the MOT.

Since this visit to the garage, the misfire/hiccup thing reared its ugly head again and got progressively worse (although sometimes it would be OK for a week or two). A couple of times the car became pretty much undriveable and I had a list as long as my arm of things to check (including fuel filter, Lucas ECU, ignition amplifier, etc.).

I was poking around just before Christmas and discovered a tiny split in the hose between the turbo and the APC valve on the slam panel. A bit of gaffer tape ;) and it seems to have fixed the problem until I can get a replacement pipe. It makes sense I suppose - turbo attached to engine, APC valve on the slam panel, so as I accelerate the pipe is put under stress and flexes, opening the split. Resulting moving of engine on mounts moves pipe again - repeat and rinse. Given that it appeared after an ill-fated garage visit nearly 12 months ago after the APC valve was replaced/remounted is further evidence. Well at least I mostly have a new ignition system now! :roll:

That pretty much brings it up to date. Had a good drive out in it 10 days or so (has been sidelined whilst I dealt with a knackered water pump on the MX5!) and really blew the cobwebs out.

So, providing it keeps running OK we're back to the long term plan - few bits of rust to sort out, refurbish the wheels, get a 4 wheel alignment, new headlining and restitch the seats, and do the APC mod I've been talking about for the last 4 years :lol:. Maybe even a change back to standard springs.

Booked in on the Essex dyno day in March so will be good to see what's what. Last print was 165bhp on the old exhaust on a really hot day, so would be nice if I could gain 175bhp on that. With an APC tweak 190bhp (fly) would be good.

[ejenner]

Probably better to just turn up the APC pots and leave it at that.

APC mod is effectively the same thing but you are putting in 'bigger' pots so you can turn it up further. Think of it as adding a number 11 position to the volume control on an amp.

You'll get a nice bit of extra performance really eaisly with a quick twist of the pots and if you don't go all the way to the moon with a fully modified APC then your gearbox is going to stay in one piece. Probably the best way to go. We can do it in about 3 minutes in the carpark at Thorrock and then you can put it on the rollers to make sure the air/fuel ratio is ok. Would be nice to just tip the 200hp mark... but might not be quite enough to get all the way there.

[fliptopbin]

I have a couple of spare APCs - the plan was always to leave the red one in the car unmolested, turn up the pots on one of the black ones, and do the 900aero mod on the other black one. I started soldering a wire onto the knock sensor pin on one for a knock LED and got sidetracked.

What's a safe way of tuning the pots? I heard that just whacking up the rise rate could mean you overshoot the max boost and get knock/detonation.

[Alex]

You really need to put the APC into the car and drive it. If the boost overshoots then wind the rate of rise pot down slightly, otherwise increase it. A short screw driver will fit into the APC pots with it still attached to the car.

[ejenner]

Like Alex says. Adjust it in the car. You can leave the engine running. There aren't any memory chips in the APC so no reset processes or anything like that. Just twist the pots, drive it, stop, open the bonnet, tweak it, repeat until it feels right.

I normally turn 'F' all the way up and 'P' is the one you adjust. If you turn 'P' all the way up then then the car will feel mental to drive but it won't be any good, too much wheelspin, breaking gearboxes, ect, ect... Even highly tuned cars need to have the 'P' pot adjusted so the spool up feels right.

F = Eventual full boost setting - turn it up all the way

P = Tweak until it feels right - remember all kinds of road conditions, wet weather! Turn P up too much and you'll spend most of your time wheelspinning - you won't go faster like that!

K = Knock sensitivity. Wouldn't recommend messing with this one! Should only be changed if you 'know' the APC isn't responding properly to knock.

[fliptopbin]

Mentioned in the forums that I had a bit of a steam issue from the rad grille at certain times coupled with a small coolant loss - garage found a leaky cylinder head hose so that's one more thing sorted.

The battery seems to be goosed at the moment - no current leaks when ignition off (apart from alarm) so it must have been last summer when the alt died that killed it. It's OK usually but if I leave it for more than 3 days without starting it is dead.

I'll replace it at some stage but I have a fully charged booster in the boot so I'm not too worried yet!

Fixed driver's heated seat again last night. Found a place on Bromley Common that does upholstery so will get them to restitch the seats I think as they are in reasonable condition. Unfortunately when remounting seat one of the mounting captive nuts seemed to have disappeared :o Spent a good hour with a magnetised screwdriver, bent bits of wire, pliers, and goodness knows what else trying to get it out, nearly lost my mind!

Ended up pulling up the carpets and centre console - got the nut out and with a bit of cotton got it back into the cage again - phew!

Have just got round to playing with the APC and have turned the F pot all the way up (I assume that means clockwise making the resistance greater? It was 209 ohms, now 512). Will see tomorrow after putting the car together. Jumbo 12v LED and new soldering iron on order from Maplin for the knock LED!

Emmett - is it OK if I pop over this weekend to pick up that pipe? I keep forgetting and the gaffer tape under the bonnet reminded me today! :lol:

[fliptopbin]

Oh, a few nice piccies I took in the recent snow!

http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r80/nicecupoftea_uk/Snow%20Feb%2009/DSC_4678.jpg

http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r80/nicecupoftea_uk/Snow%20Feb%2009/DSC_4826.jpg

http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r80/nicecupoftea_uk/Snow%20Feb%2009/DSC_4844.jpg

http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r80/nicecupoftea_uk/Snow%20Feb%2009/DSC_4850.jpg

http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r80/nicecupoftea_uk/Snow%20Feb%2009/DSC_4865.jpg

http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r80/nicecupoftea_uk/Snow%20Feb%2009/DSC_4876.jpg

[Matthew]

A Saab 900 T16S in snow :cool: Looking very good :cool:

How did get on with those T1-Rs in the snow :o

[ejenner]

Hoping to spend some quality time with the Carlsson this weekend. So let me know by txt if you're wanting to pop round. I'll let you know if I'm there.

Like the pics. Think it's great that you never gave up with this car as it's so easy to feel like some little problem is the end of the world when really it's just a tiny issue that can be quickly & eaisly sorted. You've kept a good example of a good original car in great condition so you should be quite proud about that.

[fliptopbin]

Cheers guys - there have been some real low moments with the car over the last 18 months or so, but I have been lucky in that nothing really bad has gone wrong (yet!). When it all comes together I remember why I love the car :D

I say this every year but it would be nice to get it tidied up for Bromley Pageant of Motoring!

Matthew, I didn't take it out in the worst of it, it was a bit slippy but not uncontrollable. Worked out I can get a set of winter tyres for my old 15" wheels for under 200 quid so I might do that next winter - apparently they're good for cold temperatures as well as snow.

They're my favourite photos of the car now - "in its natural habitat" :)

[Alex]

Cheers guys - there have been some real low moments with the car over the last 18 months or so, but I have been lucky in that nothing really bad has gone wrong (yet!). When it all comes together I remember why I love the car :D

I say this every year but it would be nice to get it tidied up for Bromley Pageant of Motoring!

Matthew, I didn't take it out in the worst of it, it was a bit slippy but not uncontrollable. Worked out I can get a set of winter tyres for my old 15" wheels for under 200 quid so I might do that next winter - apparently they're good for cold temperatures as well as snow.

They're my favourite photos of the car now - "in its natural habitat" :)

Winter tyres are designed to work, and work well, in temperatures below 7°c. Most performance tyres drop off at around 5°c.

[fliptopbin]

BOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOST!!!!!!! :D

Dug out a spare black APC (75 24 127) last night and checked the pots (they were untampered with and in the car were a bit less enthusiastic than my red box (137 007 001)).

F=209 ohms (boost pressure)
P=11.04 Kohms (rise rate)

F seemed to vary between 0 and 512, so obviously turned it up to 512 :cheesy: , and gave P a tweak up to 15.98 K

Took it out for a blast on the A20 just now, and it does feel quicker. Empirically, where it used to boost just into the red and 0.7-0.8 bar on the graduated boost guage before dropping off pretty quickly, it now hits 0.9 bar every time (0.95 peak) and holds right through the revs in 3rd, 4th, and 5th!

I reckon I could turn up the rise rate a bit so that it picks up more quickly, but don't want to risk the gearbox.

Not sure why it seems to hold the boost better than before...

Plus the heated seat works! :cool:

Maybe I will take my other spare APC and do the 900aero mods to see if I can get to 1 bar...

(only took me nearly 5 years to turn up the boost :lol: )

[ejenner]

don't get too carried away now. easy to get stuck into the cycle of mods where one change requires another to make it work... usually starts with a boost tweak and ends up with replacing a broken gearbox! :roll:

[fliptopbin]

You're right of course - I am happy with things the way they are without a 900aero'd APC I think. As you say, the next stage after a tuned APC is making sure the fueling is up to it, followed by a bigger intercooler, etc. and then before you know it your gearbox is in pieces! :lol: Not really a road I want to go down.

Have the stuff together for a knock LED so will do that soon. Quite tempted by an AFR meter but looks quite complicated to fit.

Ultimately I love the idea of fitting Trionic - not for extra performance, but for the smoothness/fuel economy/safety factors - and the fact that it's the next logical iteration of the engine management from APC, being Saab :)

Next step - rolling road. Last time it was done it showed 165bhp on a nice hot day at Power Engineering a few years ago. Fingers crossed with a boost tweak and the JT exhaust I would love to see 180...

[fliptopbin]

The car's been parked up for a couple of weeks while I dealt with a few little things.

had a poke under the boot spoiler as I had some water leaking in - I think it's just a case of the rear window seal has shrunk a little and it seems better after playing around. I'll use some sealant on it when (if) I get the whaletail sprayed and fitted. If anybody has any bright ideas on how to get it done for less than £150 (which is what 2 places have quoted me now) then please let me know. Or failing that, a black one for sale would be fine and I will sell my grey one...

Just a little niggle but took the centre console out to fix the rear ashtray - the plastic ledge that the metal springs push against broke ages ago. Araldited it back together but within a few hours it had broken again so that's that really. Only cure would be a new centre console which seems overkill for a tiny thing. Replaced ignition switch bulb but it's not working so must be a problem somewhere. I suspect I may have disturbed something when I was poking about under there a couple of weeks ago when I had the seats out :( There was a brown/white wire not attached to anything with no obvious places to go either - I started a thread here:

http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=149642

Any ideas?

http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r80/nicecupoftea_uk/DSC_4888.jpg

Again, just a little niggle but annoying.

Of course the battery was as dead as a doornail - thank goodness for the booster I bought!

Attended the UKSaabs rolling road day yesterday at Track & Road in Essex. It was a good day out but unfortunately the only other T16S had gone by the time I got there.

My last results was a steady 160bhp at Power Engineering 3 or so years back, before the exhaust and boost tweak, so was hoping for 180bhp (as it's boosting consistently to 0.9 bar and holding).

No such luck though, came back with 173bhp and 194 lbft of torque. It's so hard not to be disappointed but I was (especially as it was the poorest show on power there and the guy doing the results clearly thought it was crap! By my reckoning a T16S boosting up to 0.9 bar should be giving 180bhp+ (given that a standard black box T16S with 175bhp would have been 0.7-0.8 bar of boost). I know it's 20 years old, but gaining only 8bhp from the exhaust/boost tweak since the last dyno seems odd to me.

The graph was interesting and seems (to my uneducated eye) to show a drop off in boost at about 3500 rpm ("all over the place" according to dyno bloke). It's started me wondering if I have a boost leak somewhere. Most of the obvious vacuum pipes have been replaced with silicone lines, but the ones that disappear to awkward places are original. Then there's the gaffer taped pipe from the APC valve to the turbo ;oops:

In addition, I suppose I could have a weak wastegate spring or dodgy dump valve.

Would value the input of the experienced 900 tuners! :cool:

Anyway, here's the plot:

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_9cAWgHOnFZo/ScVyPVQkBWI/AAAAAAAACkA/wZvYYvAMmJ0/s800/DSC_4982.JPG

Some more pics:

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_9cAWgHOnFZo/ScVkp9j8-FI/AAAAAAAACh4/_rYvusN9EvQ/s800/DSC_4964.JPG

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_9cAWgHOnFZo/ScVkzZR1WBI/AAAAAAAACio/llCrdlZkkUs/s800/DSC_4970.JPG

A video:

Video (http://picasaweb.google.com/martin.grainger/TrackRoadSaabRollingRoadDay210309?authkey=Gv1sRgCP KasbTDrYucIw#5315808600763259410)

(it did sound good! but a little bit of smoke after he hit the limiter - hopefully not the turbo getting tired...)

And a link to the photo album:

photo album (http://picasaweb.google.com/martin.grainger/TrackRoadSaabRollingRoadDay210309?authkey=Gv1sRgCP KasbTDrYucIw#)

Things to do at the moment:

monitor coolant (was below min again the other day)
monitor intermittent clicking on full right lock
monitor drivebelt whine
steering a bit noisy (ps level fine)
fit new aerial
fit knock LED
restitch seats/spray spoiler/refurb wheels/new CD player :roll:
de-rust and repaint towbar

[fliptopbin]

OK, in my quest to find the lost power I fitted a new bypass valve today - the old one was very very grimy and had coolant leaking onto it from a leaky pipe until recently.

Thought it was going to be a pain, but removing the i/c to turbo pipe and the air intake pipe it was easy to get out. Only problem was a knackered jubilee clip on the side port of the bypass valve.

Interesting poking around down there which I've not really done before. Replaced all the APC solenoid hoses with silicone. Interesting to note that there appeared to be some oil on the inside of the rubber hose coupling that goes from the air intake to the turbo which the BPV connects on to. Is this normal or does it mean the oil seals are on the way out?

Other oddness was in removing the pipe that goes from that coupling to the AMM - it has a connection for the APC solenoid in the middle, and another for something that connects in from the throttle body. This was odd, as when I pulled it out it had a sort of diagonally chopped off pipe that seems to "collect" air from the intake! There was also a cast elbow of some sort with another pipe on it - I went to undo them as I couldn't get the pipe out initially, but on loosening the pipe to the cast elbow it started dribbling coolant! :o What's that for!? Why would there be a coolant pipe in relation to air intake/throttle body?

A test drive proved the car feels the same and is boosting exactly the same, but the turbo is much more audible, you can really hear it spooling. Oh well, guess that wasn't an issue, but one less thing to worry about, and the shininess is +5 bhp :cool:

It really does seem to hold boost consistently though, it doesn't tail off on the guage like it did on the dyno plot, I can't understand why it doesn't have more power.

Another concern was noticing the coolant header tank was empty :evil: I'm not getting any steam and I've got no noticeable leaks so where the hell is it going to? It's not overheating and seems to be running fine.

Also replaced the vacuum line from the crankcase breather as I have been told the fumes break down the silicone.

Next stage:
- fit knock LED
- try turning down the rise rate to see if the APC is cutting back the power as it overboosts (surely I'd feel this though?)
- source and fit replacement wastegate actuator (don't want to buy a shiny forge one if there's nothing wrong with the original) Anybody know where I can get one from?
- source and fit replacement for the turbo/air intake pipe/bypass valve coupling house as there are external splits in it (looks fine on the inside though) - again, where could I source one?

A fun day!

[philjohnhb]

Para 3, it's normal to find a little oil because, Para 4 that 'cut off pipe' is the crank case breather.


There is a pipe that feeds coolant to the throttle body.

[fliptopbin]

Thanks for that! Makes me feel a little better! :D

Why is there coolant to the throttle body - is it something to do with cold starting? Seems odd that it's joined to the crankcase breather pipe...

[ejenner]

The crankcase breathing system uses the water to help suck the fumes out of the crankcase. Don't ask me exactly how it works as I don't know exactly. Crankcase breathers can be as simple as a pipe running to the ground (like with my 99) or they can get very elobrate with multiple oil catch-cans and various valves, ect, ect...

I would test your existing wastegate actuator to see if it's working. Very easy to do. I usually connect my bicycle pump to the wastegate hose and pressurise the tube. I get a reading on the pressure gauge showing when the wastegate starts to open. I can also see if the wastgate is leaking and how well the mechanisim is working and if it needs greasing or adjusting.

I would guess all your car needs is to have the base boost properly set. Probably set too low at the moment. The settings can slip as the car gets older. This can happen for various reasons. It's easy to set the base boost but a boost pressure gauge and a long vac line are needed to hold inside the car whilst checking the settings. A few guys have this kit available but I don't. I tend to use my bicycle pump to check what pressure the gate is set to.

It could also have a duff turbo. But the first place to start is to check the wastegate actuator.

[fliptopbin]

Wouldn't a normal graduated boost guage do for this? Just did a quick test of bsae boost (unplugged APC valve) and booted it in 3rd - tops out at 4.0 bar which is bang on what Bentley recommends (5.8psi).

I know in theory that's OK - base boost set correctly, and RR power is 173bhp - but it's get the APC boost turned all the way up and a much freer blowing exhaust so I would have expected a few more horses...

Is it worth resetting BB a touch higher? Don't want to set it above a risky level though.

Must get that knock LED fitted and turn down the rise rate...

[ejenner]

The graduated boost gauge was what I was referring to.

Base boost should be about 1/2 what you want your full boost to be. Looking at the RR print out, it looks like the boost is dropping off at higher RPM so fixing that is probably going to be the solution.

Could be a leaky actuator, could be ignition timing, could be a weak spring in the actuator.

Here's a graph from my old T16. You can see the boost is set lower on this car but it holds the same boost all the way through.

http://www.red-green.co.uk/web/Photos/SaabPics/t16/T16_RR_Oct06.jpg

[fliptopbin]

Interesting plot, Emmett. Is that a standard T16? Power down a little from standard (maybe they are all like that at this age?) but boost a lot more stable. Perhaps I will just turn down the rise rate a bit (after doing the knock LED).

[ejenner]

Evidence of a high rise rate is the spike you get in the graph as the torque and boost starts. That is 'overshoot' where the boost builds up too quickly and then the systems get around to turning it down.

This T16 was mostly standard. I think I tweaked the pots slightly and that was it.

I don't think a little bit of overshoot at the beginning is a massive problem though.

[ooopseyesharted]

I am still learning about saabs as I have only had mine for about 10 days or so.

But, I have to say that your exhaust sounds absolutely incredible.

I want that sound!!!!!
It says 3 inch exhust on the video, but what exactly does your exhaust contain?
Cat?
Muffler?
etc.

Sorry to be a pain.

[fliptopbin]

Hi - thanks for the compliment :)

It's a JT 3" complete system. One silencer (muffler), no cat (not needed on UK cars prior to 92 or so), 3" all the way from the tip to the downpipe. Standard elbow on the turbo (it is restrictive but the battery needs moving to add one with a gentler curve).

Great sound, spools more quickly, does add a bit of power, and it gives you more clearance as well. It's a bit tight over the rear axle, but a little careful adjustment with a hammer will have it in place ;)

Can be a bit boomy at 3k revs or so when cruising, but you get used to it.

They're actually no more expensive than a replacement standard system.

[fliptopbin]

Good day at the Kodak meet today - Matthew reset my timing, I've forgotten the figures now - I think it was 16 deg at idle (or was it 14?) that was about OK and 9.8 on boost, which was reset to 11 (I think :confused: ).

Anyway, didn't notice any immediate difference, but at least I know it's setup now.

Emmett & Matthew kindly checked my wastegate actuator - seems OK, opening at about 6psi and holding it. Adrian lent me another so may swap it at some stage.

Block test (thanks again Matthew!) shows the possibility of some exhaust gases in the coolant so possible HGF looming... I am losing some coolant, but no white smoke worth speaking of and the sort of amounts I've lost would create clouds I think! Will monitor for leaks and coolant loss...

Checked base boost recently - 0.4 bar which is spot on - fitting knock LED tomorrow and will then back off rise rate of APC if necessary.

[ooopseyesharted]

Where do I get this system?
I love it

[fliptopbin]

They're made by JT Tuning in Sweden, but I got mine from (moose)parts in the UK - you need to find somebody in the US who imports them - can't help you with that I'm afraid. I think they're about £200 UK pounds, so not bad for a complete system.

[TooMany2cvs]

Good day at the Kodak meet today - Matthew reset my timing, I've forgotten the figures now - I think it was 16 deg at idle (or was it 14?) that was about OK and 9.8 on boost, which was reset to 11 (I think :confused: ).

16 at idle, 11 at idle with boost pressure applied to the vac capsule on the distributor.

I think we left yours (or was it somebody else's? The place seemed to be full of black and near-black c900s...) at about 11.3 or so - near enough... Mine was sat slightly nearer 12, not far enough out to warrant bothering with.

[fliptopbin]

Knock LED test fitted today (can't find any male spade connectors :roll: ) - not working yet though - probably need to change the one that was in there alreayfor a 12v one.

[fliptopbin]

Knock LED is fitted but not sure if it's working... Need my wife to watch the LED while I smack the block with a wrench! :lol:

Fixed the rear washer jet today - not sure what was wrong, disconnected the pipe at both ends going through the roof, blew through it, reconnected and it works...

Did notice a couple of new things though (of course!)

1. Circular thing (looks like the back of a wastegate actuator!) to the side of the radiator, just in front of the battery, and behind the headlamp wiper. What is it?

2. Connecter in o/s wing at the front under the receiver/dryer, looks like the connector on a sidelight, black & white wires going to it - is this the wiring for the US spec front reversing lights?

3. Most worrying, whilst crawling on the floor looking for 1. from front/underneath, noticed that where before the bottom bit of the radiator core was loose and falling forward/down out of the frame, part of it is now missing!! I assume this is the rad and not the a/c condenser (visible through the lower part of the aero kit). I don't know if it's just fins and the cooling will be impaired, or whether coolant actually passes through it in which case I guess it could explain my continued small coolant loss...

Thoughts?

[ejenner]

The one that pops out the bottom is the AC rad. The coolant rad has a flat metal bar running under it that supports the radiator from the bottom.

[fliptopbin]

Hmmm, it looks like whatever this is has a metal bar running underneath... If it is the condenser are they just cooling fins? Presumably it hasn't just lost the charge again? a/c worked fine 2 weeks ago when I last used it.

[ejenner]

Maybe you should post a picture. The ac rad is naked at the bottom. The water rad is well inside the engine bay and sitting on top of a lot of other metal work.

[fliptopbin]

Thanks Emmett, I'll grab a pic when it's light and post up.

[philjohnhb]

Yes the black and white cables to a light connector are for the side reversing lamps.

[fliptopbin]

Expansion tank empty yesterday when checking levels :(

No obvious leaks, no steam from exhaust, car is running fine, not hot at all.

THe car seems to have been losing coolant from various orifices for the last 18 months but it looks like head gasket failure might be on the cards.

For now I am driving around with a few litres of coolant in the boot, will get it booked in in the next few months.

Forgot to snap pics of the condensor.

[ejenner]

Could still be a leak from somewhere. What were the results of the test Matthew did on your coolant? I remember the compression test came out fine.

There's loads of places it could be leaking. The block drain plug could be leaking... for example. Under the exhaust manifold near the back of the engine.

[fliptopbin]

The block test showed some contaminatikon - went a greent-blue colour but not completely yellow. Can't see any leaks :(

[fliptopbin]

Not driven the car much over the last 2 or 3 weeks, but not losing coolant currently (at least not when stopped!)

Battery is still mullered, if I don't run the car for a few days it is stone dead. Fine otherwise though. I have a booster pack in the boot so not too worried at the mo, will replace when we have the garage built in a couple of months and I can put the car on trickle charge more easily.

Car in need of a service and check over, will sort that out in the next 6 weeks or so.

Finally bit the bullet with the radio. I'm not a big "ICE" person, but I am a musician and I listen to a lot of music in the car. Head unit is an old Sony MP3/radio that's past its best, I have original front speakers/tweeters, standard 4x10s in the back that have practically blown inside out, and terrible old 6.5" Sony's in the parcel shelf.

In an ideal world I would have bought a new amp and a small sub for the boot but I would rather save the money for running repairs!

Plumped for an Alpine CDE-103BT head unit (Bluetooth, USB, iPod control). Easy to hook up mike (run up the A-pillar) and iPod lead (although thanks to misleading info from the retailer it doesn't work with my 4th Gen iPod :x USB support is very good but it's a front mounted socket which is going to get snapped off the first time I am flailing at the wheel :roll: Looks like I need a new iPod...

Speaker-wise, 4" Alpine co-axials are drop in replacements for the dash, and bought Alpine 6.5" co-axs for the parcel shelf. It already had holes chopped in, but rather than drop them through the shelf like the old ones I bolted them to the underneath, covered the top of the holes with alu mesh (the sort you use for filling bodywork holes), and recovered it with acoustically transparent fabric. Even if I do say so myself, it looks great, you wouldn't know there were any speakers there (which is the idea!).

Top tip though: if you are ironing the fabric to get rid of creases, for God's sake do it through a towel. I did and it was fine and had a brain fade moment, plonked the iron down for a fraction of a second and it completely ruined the fabric - fortunately at the side so there was enough still to use! May not be able to cover the side speaker grilles in the boot now though...

As usual I took about a million photos!

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_9cAWgHOnFZo/Siqdev5oH7I/AAAAAAAACnA/r0kFXXL6Spg/s400/DSC_5335.JPG

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_9cAWgHOnFZo/SiqeJYJuLQI/AAAAAAAACnE/on3Hr6RzmyE/s400/DSC_5336.JPG

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_9cAWgHOnFZo/SiqeKlvyzAI/AAAAAAAACnI/lcH80zrvyBY/s400/DSC_5338.JPG

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_9cAWgHOnFZo/SiqeLtgQsjI/AAAAAAAACnM/IiH4GpWQwcY/s400/DSC_5339.JPG

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_9cAWgHOnFZo/SiqfWjhaCjI/AAAAAAAACoI/MUOyZwrR8eM/s400/DSC_5340.JPG

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_9cAWgHOnFZo/SiqeOJjNcLI/AAAAAAAACnU/tjAsXkW_PLA/s400/DSC_5342.JPG

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_9cAWgHOnFZo/SiqePOQLGMI/AAAAAAAACnY/WWzyA_3oXSQ/s400/DSC_5344.JPG

Doesn't sound too bad either. In some ways the rear speakers are a waste - too small for any real volume - but it's just nice to be able to listen to music in the car. Worth it for the bluetooth alone.

Eric van Spelde was telling me about a previous install he did on his car - he fitted a sub in the centre console! I quite like the idea of that, but I reckon I would just have a small box in the boot. Maybe an active sub.

Anyway, enough with the boy racer stuff, need to get the damn thing running properly! Bromley Pageant of Motoring a week tomorrow so need to tidy some bits!

[fliptopbin]

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_9cAWgHOnFZo/SiqeQgjUyKI/AAAAAAAACnc/rFyjzpe4Aqw/s400/DSC_5345.JPG

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_9cAWgHOnFZo/SiqeSCBOf_I/AAAAAAAACng/47Bg60Q9P4o/s400/DSC_5346.JPG

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_9cAWgHOnFZo/SiqeTrDOD6I/AAAAAAAACnk/Tck8eAYxFW4/s400/DSC_5347.JPG

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_9cAWgHOnFZo/SiqeUwTgJfI/AAAAAAAACno/s2lv9v4O38Q/s400/DSC_5349.JPG

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_9cAWgHOnFZo/SiqeWFNONLI/AAAAAAAACns/nYzWVEFTUGg/s400/DSC_5353.JPG

[ejenner]

Nice job Martin. Hidden speakers under the fabric are great.

I have a USB slot on the front of my stereo on the 9000 and I use one of these neat little USB keys.

http://image.ebuyer.com/UK/P0163594_C0000036_P0000000.jpg

http://www.ebuyer.com/product/163594

It's a USB key without the massive plastic case and the metal shield. The bit that sticks out is about the size of a thumbnail.

[fliptopbin]

Good call! Play.com has them for 17.99 although out of stock currently...

Even better, just found a tiny USB micro SD card reader at home - £12.49 for an 8GB microSD card!

[jwandhistools]

Initial diagnosis was of course alternator - flat battery, alt light. Definitely not charging as it was a solid 12.4v when the car was running. All connections were good so that just left the alt. Struggled to get it out and decided in the end that just replacing the regulator would be easy and would probably solve the problem.

I elected to remove the v-belt from the alt in the end to aid access, and the regulator came out OK. Pretty clear that it was at least one cause of the problems!

http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r80/nicecupoftea_uk/DSC_3162.jpg

:lol:

Had a bit of a nightmare trying to find a replacement - the Bosch p/n of the one I removed was 1 197 311 022 but I couldn't find anybody who could supply the same part - not ECP, not Saab, not any number of local car factors. Eventually found a place who said they could get it. When they did, it turned up as 029!! Bosch confirmed that it's a direct replacement though so in it went.

Was a bit of a fag to fit - didn't really slot in, but in it went, and after some grief with the belts got it all back together with 14.4v result!!

Quite chuffed to have sorted it myself!

At first I thought it might have sorted the misfire but it did it once more so have now replaced the HT leads too with Bougicords from PFS (although interestingly they seem to be a different p/n from the OE Saab ones). No repetitions so far but we will see. I have a new set of NGK plugs to go in next, followed by a new coil.


www.eeuroparts.com sells that regulator for $25 US.
Best Saab parts supplier I have found.

[fliptopbin]

Can't imagine shipping to the UK would be too good. Besides, it's a Bosch (=European part) so surely easier to get over here one would think.

From memory, the problem was that they had discontinued the part and it was almost impossible finding out what the equivalent part number was.

[jwandhistools]

Can't imagine shipping to the UK would be too good. Besides, it's a Bosch (=European part) so surely easier to get over here one would think.

From memory, the problem was that they had discontinued the part and it was almost impossible finding out what the equivalent part number was.


They sell that exact regulator.
Any order over $50 gets free shipping.

[ejenner]

I'm with Martin on this. Think they'd have one for sale in the local electrical shop. Metrolec in Elmers End. The guy in there likes to talk a lot though. He'd probably go off on some rant about how the brushes wearing out is a fault with the spindle and the whole alternator needs replacing or rebuildng... but persistance would more than likely get you what you want.

[Turbofrenzy]

Shipping from the US to Europe seems expensive, indeed prohibative at the moment. In the last week or so i've looked into buying from the US and shipping has put me off, it's been between 115 and 315 USD for a few exhaust bits (first price) and a/c condenser, pipes, window motor and a few other small bits (second price)

[fliptopbin]

A lot's happened recently!

A few weeks ago noticed coolant pouring out of the front left (when loooking from the front) of the car. Nursed it home and put it away until I had a chance to have a look at it.

Was fairly sure it was the radiator so ordered a new one along with a new top hose. Finally a couple of weeks ago on a wet Sunday afternoon I changed it. I was quite chuffed that I got the job done without too many hiccups!

Old radiator with dried coolant visible (near top hose and sprayed all over fan and housing) :

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_9cAWgHOnFZo/SlTfV1tlheI/AAAAAAAACpc/358bJYZArFQ/s800/DSC_5554.JPG

Definitely knackered:

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_9cAWgHOnFZo/Slu92PxXdSI/AAAAAAAACuI/0nT8d_W-yPQ/s800/DSC_5582.JPG

Problems included: seized jubilee clip on bottom hose which I had to destroy. Bottom hose stuck on (used gas pliers to loosen). Sheared jubilee clip on top hose. Don't believe the Bentley when it says "fans should be removed/reinstalled at the bench". The rad won't go in or out because of the wastegate and the turbo. Then you will have to take the fans off again and the self tappers will have chewed up the aluminium and then you will have to use bigger screws or threadlock... Ask me how I know! Intercooler has to come out too.

In progress:

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_9cAWgHOnFZo/Slu90USsYaI/AAAAAAAACuE/HKGyiooNT-Y/s800/DSC_5581.JPG

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_9cAWgHOnFZo/Slu94D2kErI/AAAAAAAACuQ/1c7oC7SpB4g/s800/DSC_5584.JPG

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_9cAWgHOnFZo/Slu96NqejFI/AAAAAAAACuY/_1u27vJihEc/s800/DSC_5586.JPG

New radiator:

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_9cAWgHOnFZo/Slu93TdNIkI/AAAAAAAACuM/gBXXGO7BkSU/s800/DSC_5583.JPG

Another top tip is use the drain plug with a hose over the end. Otherwise you *will* end up with coolant all over the drive...

Anyway, got it all back together and bled, but when warmed up I could see it was dripping from the bottom hose :evil:

Had to have the fans out *again* to nip it up...

Anyway, since then it hasn't leaked and although it seems to run warm in traffic (2/3 - 3/4 on the gauge) it seems OK, so a result!

Also finally got round to changing the battery that has not be holding a charge for more than 4 or 5 days. Eventually went for a Varta e24 (p/n 570 413 063 3132) (type 071) from a local factor - supposedly the same dimensions as the Halfords one that came out but seems a touch bigger. Starts fantastically. Very very tight fit though.

Less of a result is that since the repair the a/c has packed up :cry:

Adding 2 and 2 suggests that I managed to damage the condensor/pipe either when doing the rad or changing the battery, and a UV light test confirmed leakage around the bottom left of the core. Well done Martin!

http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r80/nicecupoftea_uk/DSC_5674.jpg

[fliptopbin]

Took the car up to WMSS today for a service and to replace the condensor (which was knackered - half the core was missing as well!). Unfortunately one of the pipes sheared removing it (the one to the compressor) and the Saab genuine part is a cool £180! :o They're sourcing me a pattern part but in the meantime I have to continue driving a sweatmobile :(

Confirmed that the HG is on the way out, core plug is weeping and oil leak from distributor area, so will be booking it in again for HG and a/c next week...

Noticed what looked like power steering fluid on the drive (but no loss from the reservoir that I can see)...

Also illumination on boost gauge is dodgy so I need to look at that - obviously my wiring bodges are coming back to haunt me.

Also, why is it that every single headlamp switch I have fitted (4?) has never had the internal illumination working!?

So a continuing story of woe and extreme expense! :roll::lol:

Got to laugh or I'd cry ;)

[ejenner]

Martin, I think if I had the bulb for the headlight switch nearby or in my hand then I could probably change it in about 30-seconds. It's that easy. I've been meaning to do the one on the 9000.

It's working on my 99! Look!

http://www.red-green.co.uk/web/photos/gallery/99t16/full/dash_lights_005.jpg

http://www.red-green.co.uk/web/photos/gallery/99t16/full/dash_lights_002.jpg

http://www.red-green.co.uk/web/photos/gallery/99t16/mid/headlight_switch_002.jpg


I've stopped using screws on the radiator fans. I prefer cable-ties now. Seems like it wouldn't be as good as a screw... but actually better. Even if you used a stainless or aluminum screw then the hole you screw it into on the radiator would still rust up anyway.

Don't throw away your old radiator. They can be re-cored. I had mine done at Express Radiators in Norwood.

http://www.red-green.co.uk/web/photos/gallery/99t16/mid/radiator_001.jpg


While I'm getting going with the 99 I'm only using water in the coolant system as using anti-freeze at this point would be a massive waste of money and inconvenience. But usually, I have an adaptor for my fluid extractor (which can be used for sucking oil out of engines as well) to suck from the radiator drain plug. Just open the plug with the fluid extractor already connected and start pumping it out... works great.

Before you do anything else with regards fixing cooling system, you can check the nipple on the front of the cylinder head which feeds the dash mounted temp guage. Just clean up the terminal, it's just one wire and is just under the hose which goes to the top of the radiator.

All the issues you mentioned with rusted jubilee clip and stuck hose and rusty / broken radiator screws are all so typical. Lucky the bolts which hold the radiator to the slam pannel weren't rusted as well!

Good luck up in Nottingham. Also, as always, well done for not giving up and keeping this car on the road. Would be so easy to chuck in the towel and buy a Fiesta or something.

[ejenner]

p.s. - look at the back of the headlight switch. In the middle of the two terminals there are a couple of black plastic legs sticking up in the middle. Just press those two legs together with your finger and thumb and pull out. This is where the bulb hides. Pull out the old bulb, push in a new one. If you've got three spare headlight switches hanging around then you can practice on one of the others, but really no need, it's easy-peezy.

[Turbofrenzy]

p.s. - look at the back of the headlight switch. In the middle of the two terminals there are a couple of black plastic legs sticking up in the middle. Just press those two legs together with your finger and thumb and pull out. This is where the bulb hides. Pull out the old bulb, push in a new one. If you've got three spare headlight switches hanging around then you can practice on one of the others, but really no need, it's easy-peezy.

But sometimes the copper strips/contacts get bent and make a bad connection.

[fliptopbin]

Just popped out to post a letter, glanced at the car and saw:

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_9cAWgHOnFZo/Sm9Znam8V8I/AAAAAAAAC-Y/bU3KTDZbaCY/s800/DSC_5965.JPG

Excellent. I must have done something in a previous life...

All levels seem OK, coolant which I think it is is above min so I guess it is that and has been leaking since the engine cooled after I got back last night.

The puddle is pretty large and it's hard to see what it's from. I've stuck some cardboard underneath to see if I can pinpoint it. It was OK before the service yesterday so I guess something must have been disturbed :cry:

Right hand side of gearbox looks very wet, not sure what might be leaking above that...

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_9cAWgHOnFZo/Sm9Zjn5sHWI/AAAAAAAAC-A/JXAEZPhFMEc/s800/DSC_5943.JPG

Other pics of the ground beneath car:

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_9cAWgHOnFZo/Sm9ZkROTsBI/AAAAAAAAC-I/8U_8ZtjQ_kQ/s800/DSC_5957.JPG

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_9cAWgHOnFZo/Sm9Zk2565bI/AAAAAAAAC-M/6PaHszH7UPI/s800/DSC_5959.JPG

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_9cAWgHOnFZo/Sm9ZlmjJ3PI/AAAAAAAAC-Q/ZIYy-kXvN5o/s800/DSC_5960.JPG

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_9cAWgHOnFZo/Sm9ZmaWGpdI/AAAAAAAAC-U/8u0cCD8DWh8/s800/DSC_5964.JPG

Car is booked in for remainder of a/c work and headgasket / core plug etc next week.

I reckon after that I am due a bit of a break with the car really. Mind you, I've been saying that for the last 18 months!

[ejenner]

If the fluid on the side of the gearbox is not the normal oil from the joint at the cylinderhead or oil from the dissy opening... then it could be water getting out of the head-gasket and raining down the side of the block. Best advice is to keep topping it up. Try not to drive too fast on the motorway, keep rpm around 3k and that should be alright with cool air comming in the front and not too much heat from the engine or turbo. Try to avoid sitting in traffic for too long. Just get into it, drive to Nottingham Saab and get the head gasket and core-plug done and should be alright after that.

The only other possiblity is that there is a lose jubilee clip somewhere. You may have removed the radiator top hose when doing the radiator swap so might not have tightened the jubilee clip. I forgot to do this on my car the other day when I swapped my radiator. But didn't leak as hose was on tight enough without the clip anyway. Obviously tightened it up when I found out.

[fliptopbin]

Cheers Emmett. I am leaking oil from the distributor - you can see it on the heat shield underneath. I didn't have any leaks after the radiator job. WMSS replaced the jubilee clips on the top hose though as one had sheared and the others were original. I'll nip them up later.

As long as it can last me a week or so until I get it to the garage that's OK. Going on holiday with it in a fortnight though so I really hope they can iron it all out for then!

On the bright side I have got a 9-5 Aero loaner while it's at the garage!

[TooMany2cvs]

The puddle is pretty large and it's hard to see what it's from. I've stuck some cardboard underneath to see if I can pinpoint it. It was OK before the service yesterday so I guess something must have been disturbed :cry:

That's right underneath the core plug... My guess is that the new rad has brought the cooling system pressure back up to where it should be, which has proved too much...

[adyc900]

Mine leaked there,and it was the turbo water feed pipe. It had been leaking a small amount and vaporizing on the hot turbo, thats why i couldn't find it, till it let go fully and left a large wet patch. Rusted jublie clip was at fault. Was worried it could have been the Head gasket.

[fliptopbin]

Well, the car went in (leak was I think from the front core plug - the pressure test they did on it obviously exacerbated the problem).

So left it a few days (and had the run of a nice 9-5 Aero wagon - very competent cars they are too).

Head gasket replaced, exhaust manifold gasket replaced (one stud sheared), core plugs replaced, cooling system flushed, new thermostat, a/c pipe replaced (bloody hell that's an expensive and convoluted bit of pipe!), a/c recharged, and a patch welded in the o/s inner arch).

Took a bit longer than expected and ended up picking up the car on the way up to the lake district for a holiday :o

Took it easy as the HG was presumably bedding in, but it was fine.

After a couple of days picked up an intermittent hesitation and my heart absolutely SANK. Reminded me of the vacuum leak I had when one of the pipes from the APC solenoid had a split and the movement of the engine on acceleration caused it to flex and leak. Except almost all the pipes are silicone now so no splits... Spent half an hour under the bonnet reseating them all and nipping up the i/c and intake pipework, and it /seems/ to have fixed it.

It is going to take a long time to gain my confidence in the car again though.

I have noticed that the whine I am getting from the belts seems to be getting worse. Definitely worse when the a/c in engaged - in theory I guess it means the compressor bearings as everything else it already turning when it's disengaged - but I guess the extra load puts the pulley/idler wheel under strain, so who knows... steering is also very noisy under load (noisier than it was) - but if the a/c or p/s packs up no other systems are affected (unless the belt snaps and takes out the alt/water pump belt) and I can drive without power steering I think...

Fingers crossed for a couple of quiet months now... (MOT in October!)

[ejenner]

Sounds like you're well set for a few solid months of entertainment.

Things always need doing on cars.

Today I had to make some urgent repairs to the 9000. The exhaust split all but one of the rubbers yesterday. The issue's been comming on for about a month already with the other 3 rubbers snapping and got to crisis point yesterday and the exhaust finally sagged to the point where I couldn't drive it properly and the work had to be done. At the same time I had to repair the connector on the sensor for the air conditioning and unblock the washer jets. Topped up the power steering fluid as that had dropped below min level and was starting to fail to assist properly. Needs the drive belt changing, needs an oil change, needs a new gearbox... I don't really drive it that much.

It's fantastic that you're not giving up on a good example of this car. You should be proud.

[fliptopbin]

Thanks Emmett :)

Was going to wash it today but took it out for a blast instead :) What a great car!

Did notice that the n/s wheelarch is bubbling again though... Cost me £400 to sort it 3 years ago. Not sure whether to do that again or just do a rough job myself and accept it will look manky but not get worse for a while. If I get the bodyshop to do it again it will just come through again in a couple of years. Only other option is to get new metal let in and I should think that will cost an arm and a leg...

Other plans are a full alignment, refurb the wheels, and get the leather/suede seats sorted out - they need new suede panels, a few bits of stitching re-doing, and a bit of TLC in places. Are seat bases still available? My driver's one is a bit saggy... I suppose I could get one off a passenger seat of a scrapper...

Emmett, have you ever use Cass Bros. for upholstery, on the A21 opposite the Shell garage?

MOT next month, will get them to look at the noisy/whiny aircon. Not worried if it's the compressor because if it goes it goes. If it's the pulley I can change it, if it's something else that the a/c load is making noisy it would be good to know!

[TooMany2cvs]

If I get the bodyshop to do it again it will just come through again in a couple of years.

Not if they do it properly.

A quick flat back, fill and blow-over will only ever be a short-term stopgap, since the rot's coming from inside.

Only other option is to get new metal let in

Yep, that's the "doing it properly"...

[fliptopbin]

Any leads on a decent c900 friendly bodyshop within a reasonable radius of SE London? :(

[TooMany2cvs]

Any leads on a decent c900 friendly bodyshop within a reasonable radius of SE London? :(

Doesn't have to be particularly "c900-friendly" - just "classic-friendly". Not insurance-led, in other words.

I can put you onto one in the Chilterns, if that's any help...

[ejenner]

I know there are a couple of places you shouldn't use in Bromley. Only one I can remember the name of is "Bodywork Matters" based on Worsley Bridge Road just near Lower Sydenham. The other is down an alley-way off Bromley Common near Chatterton Road sort of area. I think they were called "Bromley Carriages" or something like that. Both of those places have done bad work for me in the past and I wouldn't recommend them to anyone.

One good tip might be these people: http://www.londontown.com/LondonInformation/Shopping/The_Romance_of_Rust/cf62/

They were featured on Channel 4 and did some fantastic work to a car which was being restored on the program. They're in West London but that's not far.

[ejenner]

I don't think you'll be going to 'Romance of Rust'

I was wondering about getting some custom metal arches made for the 99 and decided to try and get in touch with them. They've either closed down or moved to a new building. The telephone number doesn't work and I can't find them on Google.

14540

[fliptopbin]

I have had one place recommended to me that I might give a go sometime. That damn wheelarch is bubbling up again :evil:

Really want that whaletail sprayed too, I have had it for 18 months!

Car flew through the MOT without even an advisory last week :) Only annoyance is a relay under the dash on the LH side going mental. Can't work out what it is - not the indicator or flasher or wash wipe, or the alarm so far as I can tell. Nor the cruise. Only other thing I think is the pressure transducer. Hard to track down as it's intermittent, and it stops when I stop driving - seems to be linked vaguely to revs / speed / throttle input / engine load.

Asked the garage to have a look but of course it stopped doing it :lol:

Still have half the dash in the boot and will put it back together if it doesn't start again...

In other news, garage is finally built, flooring order and I'm halfway through fitting it - with luck the car will be garaged again soon for the first time in 5.5 years!!

[ejenner]

I'm quite keen on the idea of finding a professional metal worker not too far from Bromley to do some work on my 99. So if you find someone who can do this wheelarch without just wacking in a load more filler then I'd like to hear about it. I might give it a go myself. But I know how hard it can be trying to make interesting bodywork out of metal.