Noticed drivers side axle seal leaking. I also noticed the driveshaft can wobble around a bit. Searching on here I see that the diff bushing is a common failure. I also see that it's a pain in the behind to replace. I've heard mention of a special tool that makes pulling the bushing easier, otherwise the whole trans has to come apart. Has anyone found this tool? Does anyone have pics of this bushing so I can see how it's intalled in the trans?
What's the worst that can happen if I continue to drive like this for a while, provided I keep the trans fluid topped up?
If this is all as stated, the side seal leak will become worse over time; most "leaks" are controlled(static leaks) but with the rotating force of the poorly supported(worn bushing) axle...this should be repaired in short order....
But in my nigh 40 years of off and on Saab ownership, I have never seen anything like this.
Are there any vibrations from this axle ?
Am I crazy or am I the only one that doesn't have a differential bushing in my 1999 93? Am I missing something here? Could mine be an update? I need to pull that bearing out since it froze solid, but all I see is a bearing inner race, no bushing. Somebody please shed some light here.
Per my trusty Saab mechanic, there is a way to remove the worn sleeve with the transmission left in place by using a special tool. I think it is basically a puller.
Having rebuilt a couple of FWD manual tranmissions in the past I'm trying to get an idea of how this one works. Where is this bushing? Is it pressed into the carrier? I'm surprised that there isnt more pre-load on the side gears to prevent wobbling like that. I'm not familiar with any other gearboxes with this design.
The boxman (from the UK) may have some info on this; also the WIS(workshop info system) ... This gearbox may be a standard Euro-GM design ..The Chevrolet Cavilier may have a 5 speed and may be similar...
Yes that's the one. Although it seems fairly straightforward to use an airsaw/rotozip/whatever to cut the bushing in a couple of pieces and take it out that way, I'd like to hear firsthand from someone who's done it. Does the Saab dealer sell this part separately?
Is there a way to remove *and* replace the busing without removing/rebuilding the transmission?
I'm having the same issue on my car (no leak yet, but the bushing needs to be replaced). The dealer in Massachusetts told me that Saab calls for removal/rebuild of the transmission to do this repair, but that they normally don't do that. I'm now back in Washington, and my mechanic here tells me that they *do* need to remove/rebuild the transmission (cost: somewhere around $2400 parts and labor!). If there's a way to do this repair without all the extra transmission work, I'd like to share the idea with my mechanic.
Id rather bump an old thread on the topic than make a new one and be told to search, so here goes:
The car vibrates like crazy under load from 40-60mph and again from 75-80mph. It feels like its coming from the front, but its severe enough that the whole car shakes. I personally balanced the wheels, then rotated them a week later to make sure they were not the issue
My main concern comes from my axle. How much play should the the drivers side axle have with the vehicle stationary? I have roughly 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch of play measured at the inner CV joint both while on a suspension lift and on the ground.
Im about 90% sure its the bushing, but Id like a little more confirmation before I spend the $430 for the foolish kit.
1/2 to 3/4 of play is unacceptable IMO. There should be pretty much zero play side to side, up down, all around of your inner driver inside your diff. I replaced the bushing last year, and I have pictures of doing. If anyone is interested I can do a little bit of a writeup and post some pics of it.
As far as cost goes, if you're doing it yourself you are looking at 25 or so for the bushing, and then prolly close to 80 for transmission fluid to flush out any metal shavings that sneak into your transmission
You just can't check GS with knowing the part number, and you need the EPC (electonic parts calalog) to do that. There's one up on isohunt.com right now if anyone wants to download it over the p-t-p network. It sure makes getting parts easier without getting ripped off. And Nick at GS discounts parts too... Ron
I searched by "bushing" which is what you quoted before. I also searched by price from $20-30. I did find the part on other websites however. Though Id rather order from GS than an unknown site
Maybe I am being anal, but using something worn (the inner driver) to determine bushing condition may not be the most accurate way of indirectly measuring bushing wear..
The WIS must have the wear specs..
But, if one can lift/pivot ( but not a lateral move)the driver 1/2 to 3/4".....I wonder if the bushing is still there.....Its original wall thickness of say 3 mm must be worn down to 1 mm !!:evil:
This is the concern I have. But yes, I do have over 1/2" of vertical play as measured at the inner CV. Theres also a distinct clicking metal on metal sound when I move the shaft. I may as well just buy the whole inner driver kit to be on the safe side.
Does anyone know the part number for the inner driver kit?? Also where is the preferred online parts source for this part. Also does anybody make a tool yet to remove the bushing without cutting? Any info would be appreciated!
Does anyone know the part number for the inner driver kit?? Also where is the preferred online parts source for this part. Also does anybody make a tool yet to remove the bushing without cutting? Any info would be appreciated!
Previous posts 4, 6, 10, 14....may help.
Maybe a slide hammer kit, if there is the room..This is similar to working in a cave..With 1/2" of play, its a wonder that the spider gears did not bind, or were not damaged..
That is VERY sloppy! Mine had perhaps 1-2 mm of sideplay.
I have not yet seen indications a bushing tool is yet available. I have seen a number of references tto the fact that people are "working on one," but I think the only way to do it still is to carefully cut through the bushing from the axle hole.
I ended up buying the whole inner driver kit just to be on the safe side. Now I need to see if I can get some 0063 on the cheap somewhere, and perhaps pick up an axle from work. $34 for a $130 part is nice.
If anyone has a write up on the repair with pics, I would be more than grateful. Should I also replace the inner driver (OUCH $$$)? Should i go ahead and replace the passenger-side inner driver/companion too?
Or would i just be better off replacing the transmission? (assuming I can find a good transmission for less than $500)
What worked for me right or wrong....
I used a hacksaw blade and gently made a relief cut into the bushing while using a shop vac to pick up any bushing material. Once the cut was made I used a blind hole bushing removal slide hammer kit which I picked up from harbor freight tools, With mininimal effort with the slide hammer the bushing comes right with no adverse damage to the transmission. Once Out remember to flush out transmission to reduce any metal dust that might not have been picked up by the vacuum. Use a bushing/seal driver kit to install and you'll be all set. As far as the driver kit, use your judgement to see if it really worn or not. I was unable to locate a new one and was forced to re-use old one and it worked out fine.
Good luck!!
You can chill if you want to and would be easier to install. I installed my bushing with a universal bushing / seal driver tool. It went right in with no problems at room temp...
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