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Help! My Mechanic and dealership didnt fix my 9-3!

1K views 7 replies 4 participants last post by  Mateo 
#1 ·
Okay about a couple months ago when it first started getting cold my 1999 Saab 9-3 (185000KM) had problems starting. It would start just fine but would stall a couple secounds after starting. I let the problem continue because all I had to do was just wait about 10 minutes and my car would start fine all day long until the startup next day. The problem only occured only at the first start of the day. I even tried "letting the fuel prime itself" by leaving it on the on position for about 5 secounds and that did not work. So I took it to my independent Saab Mechanic, first thing we tried was another DIC and that didn't help (dont worry, I didnt pay). I was told when I bought it just in September that there was a new DIC put on so I knew that probably wasnt going to help. So he told me next that it'll be the Crank sensor ($300 including labour). I asked if it were the fuel pump and he didn't think so. So with a new bosch crank sensor, I thought it worked at first but when leaving work that day it stalled after startup, and this was at night too and it always started at night! So it seemed to make it worse (I have a feeling he might of installed it incorrectly). So I got tired of it stalling at night so I finally took it to the dealership. It was actually working a couple days before the dealership, they thought it might have taken a while for the CPS to "learn". So they cleaned my Idle Air Control, replaced my spark plugs with the "proper" NGK plugs and got me a PCV nipple that was broken off and capped. I also asked for an oil change with synthetic for the first time, new engine air filter, cabin filter and my BPC to be cleaned to help my poor boost issue. I also got a rim cap that popped off right after leaving my mechanic with the other DIC. They had it there for a couple days and said it "started like a charm". So when i picked it up, it started just fine at the dealership but when I finished work that day I started it up and in a couple secounds it stalled on me :cry:. Now after a week or so it seems even worst. After stalling on the first start, it won't even crank on the ST position, it just makes a little click. I have to wait longer for it to start after that and sometimes after finally starting it will still stall. I do hear a whine in the back for a few secounds after starting, so i guess my fuel pump is working? I know there are guys out there who know allot about this issue and I can't risk loosing any more money and not having it fixed. Thanks for the responses everyone!
 
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#2 ·
Guessing, guessing,guessed???:roll: :( :x

Find a place that services as necessary, diagnose the problem ,and tests.
The word "replace" is not used until the very last step, and then only as necessary...

The first item to service and test is the battery/charging system- this is the heart of the car's computer system. This takes little time and should always be done on a properly serviced vehicle...on an annual basis..
Did anyone even bother to do this ?
 
#5 ·
Mateo said:
the kal tire paper work says here under Battery/Cables/Box, the CCA rating is 600 and that was tested at 68% CCA. I don't know what that means. It was checked off as "OK"
IMO, this battery is not the best, I prefer a CCA(cold cranking amps) of much more than 600..
I use the load test method of assessing a battery; mine barely passes - the alternator is on its last legs(time for new brushes)..150K miles, 11 years..We used the load test at Volkswagen; some of the condemned batteries were still "good" - I used a "VW" battery in the Chevy for almost 6 months, then the battery died, and I mean dead:evil: ..I was lucky, this could have happened on the BQE during rush hour...
Now after a week or so it seems even worst. After stalling on the first start, it won't even crank on the ST position, it just makes a little click. I have to wait longer for it to start after that and sometimes after finally starting it will still stall. I do hear a whine in the back for a few seconds after starting, so i guess my fuel pump is working? I know there are guys out there who know allot about this issue and I can't risk loosing any more money and not having it fixed. Thanks for the responses everyone! The first sentence , if I am reading it correctly, tells me that the battery is, for some reason, failing its load test...How old is the battery. And how is your alternator ??

Guessing that anything is wrong is exactly what I am trying to avoid.

A good test of the fuel pump is pressure and current draw..If the current draw is too high, I would renew the pump. Motors tend to draw more current when they are old and tired.The SAAB fuel pump lasts about 100 to 150 K miles..
Sorry, I have no figures on amps and volts....
But I could connect the multimeter probes to the fuel pump fuse contacts - as a test....
At the dealership back in the 60s we would test the pump by using a ,IIRC, 8 mm by 30" clear fuel line - the electric pump would have to fill the column quickly up to 28" and hold....Todays pump would have to do better that ( a lot more pressure)..

The concept behind advanced preventitive maintenance is to prevent break-downs, and expensive towing bills...and un-necessary parts replacement..
VW was right about that battery, even if I was able to milk another 6 months out of it...
And I do not expect to get much more than 160K miles on the old fuel pump.....
 
#7 ·
Do you know how old is your battery? Sometimes there is a manufacture date sticker on the battery that can give you a rough idea. From my experience in Canadian Winters, my car batteries seem to last a maxumum of 3 years, between 2-3 years. 600 CCA is a little on the lower side for "cold cranking amps". My battery in my Saab is rated at 850 CCA, and I just changed it last year. Consider it.
 
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