I think I'm Missing a Bolt on my Engine... [Archive] - SaabCentral Forums

: I think I'm Missing a Bolt on my Engine...


KaMiKaZi_t0M
21st December 2007, 12:49 AM
Well, I see a random threaded hole in my engine. It looks like a bolt belongs here, especially becuase it looks like it should hold two pieces of metal together that are currently slowly leaking oil (unless that is dripping from the head)
Here's a picture
(http://flickr.com/photos/10655648@N08/2126411896/)
If there is one missing, whats the size of the bolt so I can fix it!
Thanks,
Tom

DREWZ AIRFLOW SE
21st December 2007, 12:59 AM
thats just a cog to line the trans up to the motor no bolt needed. Man thats a lot of oil.

Frank_Drebin
21st December 2007, 01:13 AM
Is that oil or possibly PS fluid from above? I've seen posts about leaking PS canisters and had one on my 98 as well.

PMI
21st December 2007, 10:50 AM
Is that oil or possibly PS fluid from above? I've seen posts about leaking PS canisters and had one on my 98 as well.Looks a lot like one of my valve cover leaks.
Until you clean it up, and start looking for where the fresh oil is coming from, it will be hard to tell.

Heath
21st December 2007, 12:18 PM
You needs ta get degreasin' :o

Tweek's Turbos
21st December 2007, 01:13 PM
I bet the rear main seal is throwing oil all over down there!:o

DREWZ AIRFLOW SE
21st December 2007, 01:29 PM
I bet the rear main seal is throwing oil all over down there!:o


x2

That would be my guess for that amount of oil.

earthworm
21st December 2007, 01:36 PM
The pic is the result of long term(150K miles)oil seepage from the cam cover and or head gasket - I think that all the Saabs leak from this area....It must be cleaned up, the oil damages the hoses and electric in this area.. but few people do clean this.. particularly the OO(original owners)

Drewz airflow has nailed it:cheesy:

KaMiKaZi_t0M
21st December 2007, 02:33 PM
yea, the head leaks pretty good, but she runs like a beaut and pulls like a bear with 184k. I'll replace the head once it starts to become a major problem. Is replacing a head something I can DIY? I know the seals arn't THAT expensive.
I'm pretty sure the PS fluid doesn't leak, thats just lots and lots of oil. I'm not the original owner, i just put my first 1000 miles on the car, but from a diagnostic they had done in 2004, it was leaking back then and its still holding. I'm pretty sure its the original head =]
Oh, and like I said, theres kind of a space between those 2 pieces of metal where I tought the bolt should go. Is there supposed to be a little bit of space?
Thanks,
Tom

DREWZ AIRFLOW SE
21st December 2007, 02:48 PM
Yeah that hole is there with a little cog in it to help line up the trans when replacing it.

Frank_Drebin
21st December 2007, 03:12 PM
Headgasket is pretty straight forward. You need a large torque wrench, new headbolts, headgasket and an understanding of engine timing procedures. You'll want to pull the valve cover, turn the engine until both timing marks match up on the cams, pull the gears off the cams, disconnect the exaust and intake manifolds, look for any additional connections to the head (can't remember how many I found) then remove the head. clean the old gasket, replace it and follow the torque order and specs on the new one. Then replace everything you pulled off making sure to put the cams back to their timing marks before replacing the gears.

Leon
21st December 2007, 07:04 PM
Hey Kamikazi Tom! If the hoses are covered with oil, you might want to degrease them ASAP. Oil weakens the hoses and if it's too hot in the engine bay, the hoses will burst! Either leaving you stranded or with a messed up engine if you continue to drive it. Check the Distributor Cap. If there's oil on the bottom, that means the rubber O ring for the distributor is most likely old and shriveled up causing oil to go past and leak out the hole. Changing it's a cinch! Just undo the 13 or 1/2 socket at the bottom, pull the distributor out! Replace O ring, then it'll only go one way back in because you'll see 2 pieces sticking out the end, and if you look at the camshaft, through the hole, you'll see the two receiving cutouts in the camshaft. Good luck!


Also frank Drebin! I was wondering, when you make sure the two top marks show, and you then remove the camshaft sprockets, is it wise to ZIP TIE them to the TDC mark, so you'll make sure that they go on the same way they came off? Also, in this position, does it mean that Cylinder 1 and 4 are in TDC? Thanks!;)

Frank_Drebin
21st December 2007, 09:27 PM
Also frank Drebin! I was wondering, when you make sure the two top marks show, and you then remove the camshaft sprockets, is it wise to ZIP TIE them to the TDC mark, so you'll make sure that they go on the same way they came off? Also, in this position, does it mean that Cylinder 1 and 4 are in TDC? Thanks!;)

Hmmm, if I'm following you correctly you're saying to put a ziptie on the sprockets to mark where TDC was? Or are you saying that you want to ziptie the chain to the sprocket or did I totally miss it? (probably choice #3 :cheesy: )

Here's what I do but it doesn't neccessarily mean its THE right way, it just worked for me. The sprockets have marks on them that should point straight up when the timing mark matches up on the cam shaft. So... as long as you make sure the timing marks are correct on the cams and the timing marks on the sprockets are straight up, they will line right up. If you were off a tooth in either direction it would be bad enough that it would be very obvious. As for the cylinders. Yes, #1 and #4 were at TDC. I used a pencil in #1 and marked it at the highest point. That point did indeed line up with the timing mark on the crankshaft.

Leon
21st December 2007, 10:15 PM
Hey, thank you for the reply. What I'm wondering is: I know there are marks on the cams? But are there marks on the chain? IE, when it's in TDC? I was suggesting ZIP tying each sprocket to the spot on the chain exactly where the link is.


So, how does the sprocket look when you actually take it off of the cam? How will you know you put it back on exactly in the same position with the chain in the same spot/link?

LOL, sorry, I hope I'm not confusing you! ;oops: But lastly, when you actually take the head off, the cams will stay in the correct position, right? I mean there's no way that they'll rotate to throw timing off? I guess unless you jam the open valves underneath against something.

Thanks! I'm still fascinated about the procedure to remove and replace the head gasket.

Frank_Drebin
21st December 2007, 10:31 PM
Hey, thank you for the reply. What I'm wondering is: I know there are marks on the cams? But are there marks on the chain? IE, when it's in TDC? I was suggesting ZIP tying each sprocket to the spot on the chain exactly where the link is.


So, how does the sprocket look when you actually take it off of the cam? How will you know you put it back on exactly in the same position with the chain in the same spot/link?

LOL, sorry, I hope I'm not confusing you! ;oops: But lastly, when you actually take the head off, the cams will stay in the correct position, right? I mean there's no way that they'll rotate to throw timing off? I guess unless you jam the open valves underneath against something.

Thanks! I'm still fascinated about the procedure to remove and replace the head gasket.

I gotcha. On the surface that would seem like a great idea. However, one factor that i wasn't aware of before I did mine was that the chain lines up when installed but after you turn it, it doesnt line the marks back up again for a very very long time. For instance if you install a new chain and use the marks to line it up, once you turn the engine the marks will not line up again. I rotated the engine about 4 turns and when I put the cam marks on TDC the marked chain links were 3 off. In other words, the chance of lining them up again is nill.

That being said, make your own marks and ziptie them, that's a great idea. fool-proof in fact.

Leon
21st December 2007, 10:53 PM
All right! Thanks! May I ask, why did you have to change your head gasket? Do you have a turbo engine? Thanks!

**EDIT! Never mind, I scrolled 6 pages back and found your post. Man, it's very interesting! Was this work performed on the new white convertible you bought?

Frank_Drebin
21st December 2007, 11:05 PM
All right! Thanks! May I ask, why did you have to change your head gasket? Do you have a turbo engine? Thanks!

Yes, it was on a 2.0t. The waterpump went out on the PO. The headgasket blew and the head warped. Pulled the head, sent it off to have it machined, replaced lifters.

As for the timing chain issue, I just did one on a 1999 9-3. I kinda learned as I went (I'm sure you saw the thread).

mr rx-7 tt
22nd December 2007, 12:31 PM
De-grease that puppy and spray her clean!