I'm hoping experienced SAAB owners have some ideas regarding why my 9-3 just stopped while going up a hill and now won't start:
1) Car was running perfectly;
2) While driving up a reasonably steep incline, the engine just stopped (lights still on, engine/oil/etc lights still on).
One interesting note is that if I blow starter fluid into the intake, it does fire so I'm pretty sure electrical is fine.
My problem is usually I've seen fuel pumps (I am a BMW owner) die slow deaths, but never just 'quit' and stop the engine.
I checked everything, the fuel pump was dead. I replaced it with one that costed 70$ from rockauto.com and it broke after 20 mins of use or about 15 miles. What could the cause be? just a bad pump (it was supposed to be new)? or there is something else that could possibly be wrong?
My apologies for no search. Cripes - I know that rule so well, and in this case frustration took over and I simply posted after logs of Google searches.
Thanks for the info regardless and I'll keep everyone posted with the results so searches work for the next guy.
No problem, I posted the two topics I have bookmarked. One day I might make a site dedicated to fuel pump questions but not until mine fails haha. I just mentioned the search button because you can usually find the answer you are specifically looking for in a few seconds. It isn't really a rule but answers can be found a lot faster.
CPS tells the ECU that the crankshaft is moving, so the ECU closes the fuel pump relay and supplies power to the pump. If you are getting power to the pump when the engine is cranking, I think the CPS is doing its job.
My brash and arrogant guess is you were low on fuel going up the steep incline, you may have starved the pump and overheated it. That would be rather bad news.You might run a fuel pressure test with a jumper in place in the fuse box to supply power to the pump, or with the jumper in place try to start it. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE PLENTY OF FUEL IN THE TANK BEFORE YOU DO ANY OF THIS.
I'm just an ignorant amateur, and take no responsibility for any consequences resulting from this advice!
If the ECU(electronic control unit or engine control unit) does not receive a signal from the CPS(crank position sensor), the fuel pump will not operate.
To diagnose, run current directly to the pump, bypassing the CPS.
The CPS gas a tendacy to fail when hot, when cold, it will pass.....
I would go with low fuel starved the fuel pump as well. This would require a replacement pump. If the tank was relatively full, then check the others before going to the pump. How many miles are on the car? fuel pump and cps last around 100k -120k.
Thanks all so much for the replies - this is clearly a great board.
Regarding fuel - here's the deal:
- Half full on the tank going up the hill. I don't think that'd be starved, but dunno.
- Miles on the car is appx. 112,000 so maybe it's time for fuel pump to die - just a hunch, but sounds like maybe I can check a lot of things before shelling out so much at a dealer to fix it.
My pump went out at 123,000. So, it could very well possibly be that. Just to make sure, lift the rear seat, remove the platic cover, you'll see the top of the plastic fuel tank. Move any noticeable wires to the side (ie tuck them under the metal, then take a rubber mallet, Bang on the top, right iin the middle of the circle, and then have someone start your car. If it starts, then it's definitely the fuel pump. Be wary though, this "SHOCKING" back to life wll only last about 30 more minutes or so of life, so get somewhere if you need to...
When my fuel pump quit it did it suddenly and most inconveniently, (south of Cleveland on the Ohio turnpike, just about exactly half way between DC and N. Michigan). I had to advanced warning the car was ticking along quite nicely and then it shuddered, stalled and stopped. Good luck to you.
In reading the helpful link provided by earthworm, the thought occurred that a plugged filter could starve the pump, or maybe a combo of a partially plugged filter and the incline! Either way its bad news. Maybe those of us with some miles ought to check the fuel pump filter as an avoidance tactic.
In reading the helpful link provided by earthworm, the thought occurred that a plugged filter could starve the pump, or maybe a combo of a partially plugged filter and the incline! Either way its bad news. Maybe those of us with some miles ought to check the fuel pump filter as an avoidance tactic.
What are you talking about? :cheesy: The fuel pump is in the tank itself the fuel filter is outside the tank. The fuel pump pumps the fuel thorough the fuel line to the filter. Once filtered, it continues to the fuel rail. You can't starve the fuel pump because of a clogged filter. It's simply impossible so don't worry about that :cheesy:
After 100K miles, the fuel pump is always suspect. Like what was said before test it first by running a direct wire to the fuel pump access hole bypassing the fuel pump fues, relay and CPS to see if the pump runs.
Since the car was running when it died I'm willing to bet it's a fuel pump
A new fuel pump is $82.50 and can be installed by making a second access hole under the rear seat next to the wire harness access hole.
I didn't mean THAT filter, not the external one. I meant the filter in the tank that screens out stuff before the fuel gets to the pump. Read earthworm's link and you will get it. Wow, I feel singed.
I have one last quick question. I see many images of pump replacement, but is it the pump itself (insert I presume) that everyone is changing? Or is it best to change the entire module. The difference is 99 bucks for a pump only from AutoZone, or 500 (or so) for the whole module.
I totally agree with John Bernard! When I changed my fuel pump, in the assembly, where the "INTERNAL" filter is, there was a whole bunch of black gunk in there. It almost looked as if black chipped off paint! :roll: Those very well could have stopped the pump! If you replace the insert, make sure you rinse it out with gasoline.
But, yes, I would definitely just change the insert. I'll try and find the link that someone made to changing the fuel pump insert. Oh, hey, you might want to try www.autohausaz.com for the fuel pump insert. It only costs $76 shipped! It alsocomes with the small section of fuel hose you need, directions! A big plus!, and the two hose clamps. good luck!
Wow Hkayssi! They've gone up in their prices in the past year! I didn't know! when I bought it, it just came with that main twisted fuel hose. I don't know why it comes with those others! All you need to replace is the main one on the insert's barbed fitting. And where it leads to is a plastic "T" fitting, which you must carefully cut off with a razor blade, so as to not mess up the T fitting, then push the other end of the fuel hose onto it, tighten both clamps, put back in, done!I only paid $76 last may!
Wow Hkayssi! They've gone up in their prices in the past year! I didn't know! when I bought it, it just came with that main twisted fuel hose. I don't know why it comes with those others! All you need to replace is the main one on the insert's barbed fitting. And where it leads to is a plastic "T" fitting, which you must carefully cut off with a razor blade, so as to not mess up the T fitting, then push the other end of the fuel hose onto it, tighten both clamps, put back in, done!I only paid $76 last may!
Wanted to let everyone know I got started this evening (it was 'killing' me, so I just had to start).
When I get all done, I'll make a complete, step-by-step (I'm taking hi res pictures where relevant). There is zero question, for the wonderer - cut the hole and forget dropping the tank. It's total cake and sealing it up will be too (sheet metal and silicone will be my model).
So - a couple points along the way:
1) Checked the gas guage and marked it for future reference (10 seconds);
2) Disconnected the battery (both sides - 1 minute).
3) Cut the carpet and hole with a good pair of tin snips (10 minutes).
4) Disconnected the pump wire harness by using a small screw driver to *gently* pry the the yellow tab holders away from the block connector and pulling each side up enough to keep the tab from dropping back into place. Then took out the block once 'free'. (2 minutes - be gentle with the tabs!!)
5) Sprayed some WD-40 into the plastic 'nests' in which the plastic valves (check valve / return valve ??) are tightly placed (5 minutes - waited for the WD-40 to settle in a while).
6) Removed *both* plastic valves by using pliers *only* on the round top part of the valves. Gently wiggled (small rotation) them back-n-forth 'til the WD-40 was clearly beginning to loosen them. (4 minutes or so)
7) *Gently* used my thumb to pry back the retaining tab on the valves and also *gently* rotated with the pliers while giving so upward lifting (not a lot of force). Both came out quite well but I refused to rush at this one (5 minutes).
8) plugged up the holes where the valves were (to seal off gas fumes), covered up the whole thing with a rubber mat and quit for the night (3 minutes or so)
Add it up and in about a half hour, with constant recognition of the need to not rush and be gentle with the plastic parts, I have the most rigorous part done. Tomorrow night I'll get the ring off and remove the pump assembly for cleaning / inspection.
Hey, I'm not sure about number 5: I actually got a paper towel wet with gasoline, and then drizzled/squeezed it over the plastic check valves, then with my FINGERS I gently worked them right up. I in no way would even think about using pliers! They are more fragile than you think! Good luck with everything!
"... So just carefully dribble some gas on the fittings, and see if you can easily pull them out with pliers. ..."
I just changed from gas to WD-40 for my purposes. But hey, if we need to leave that out - no worries because it bugged me, but we gotta be consistent across threads .
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