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Control arm

1K views 13 replies 4 participants last post by  Leon 
#1 ·
what will happen if one of the control arm ball joints are loose
 
#2 ·
rballer said:
what will happen if one of the control arm ball joints are loose
You don't pass state inspection, and run the chance of getting into a severe accident shall one completely let go...

It's what holds the entire bottom of the wheel from 'flopping out', to speak.

Ever see people on the highway with wheels tilted near 45? That's what happened...

Get it fixed =)

-Bny
 
#4 ·
with the right technique, it's very easy.

Depending on climate, may want to pick up a sway bar link as well; It will probably break when you try to remove it; I just broke my drivers side last week; Have to order one from eeuro sometime this weekend!

-bny

tools for control arm:

16mm socket? 19 mm socket.
5 lb mini sludge hammer.
17 mm socket for wheels.
7 or 8 mm socket for sway bar link.
and , at least on a 9-3, T55 socket for the large bolt going through the large outer bushing.

Cheers,
 
#5 ·
The following link gives tips on changing the control arms. Note my comment about the need for a 32mm deep socket to undo the center hub nut in order to slide the CV joint back so that you can put a ring wrench on the lower ball joint nut. Without doing that, I could only get an open jaw wrench on it which couldn't apply enough torque to undo it.

http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1104579#post1104579
 
#6 ·
hm.

Are the 9-3's and 900's different? The top bolt on my lower ball joint is a T55 screw head. I do understand what you mean about clearances, but I've always been able to push the axle aside enough that I've never had to touch the hub nut... T55 socket JUST fits in under the outer cv boot, at least on my car...

*shrug*,
bny
 
#7 ·
No, that long T55 bolt is what connects the Stanchion arm to the control arm. Look a little more inward, you'll see a nut closer to the rotor underneath the boot, that's what holds on to the ball joint.
 
#8 ·
Leon said:
No, that long T55 bolt is what connects the Stanchion arm to the control arm. Look a little more inward, you'll see a nut closer to the rotor underneath the boot, that's what holds on to the ball joint.
Oh, right right. Just did one a few weeks ago, and already slipped my mind.

I've always just used an open end wrench....

-bny
 
#9 ·
Yea, if I remember right though, I used my 19mm wrench to get to it.
 
#10 ·
Yes; I initially tried the open ended wrench but it started to round the ball joint nut off! It definately would have saved me a lot of time if it had come off with the open ender as I had to visit a number of stores before I found one with the requisite 32mm deep socket (not a tool I've ever needed before) for the center hub nut.
 
#11 ·
wonkyhamster said:
Yes; I initially tried the open ended wrench but it started to round the ball joint nut off! It definately would have saved me a lot of time if it had come off with the open ender as I had to visit a number of stores before I found one with the requisite 32mm deep socket (not a tool I've ever needed before) for the center hub nut.
1" 1/16 and or 1" 3/16 works too...

I forget which one...

Peace,
bny
 
#12 ·
wonkyhamster! If anything, to stop you rounding the bolt off further, just loosten the center hub nut, CAR ON GrOUND, then jack up with the WHEEL OFF.

Use the ball joint separator to push out the outer TIE ROD.


Disconnect the swar bar links, I undo the bottom 11mm nut on the bottom of the control arm, BE cAUTIOUS,as when you undo these, the sway bar will pop up almost right in your face, but the axle is there to stop it.

To stop this from happening, use a C-CLAMP to hold the sway bar end to the control arm, then when you let the 11mm nut go, you can gently RAISE the sway bar with the C Clamp.

On the SUB-FRAME, loosten the 15mm long bolt that holds the control arm to the sub frame.
Then undo all the way the 32mm nut and , and pull the axle spline out so carefully, a rubber mallet works wonders, and undo the STAnCHION arm from the control arm: TorX T55.

Then you can just undo the brake caliper, heX 7mm and suspend it with a good ZIP tie.

Lastly, just undothe 3 10mm nuts you see holding near the strut mount in the engine bay and you can remove the whole assembly.

Then you can work on that nut without anything being in the way! Good luck!
 
#13 ·
The method I used is as follows:

1) Loosen center hub nut both sides of car.
2) Jack up both sides of car with both wheels off (this makes sure the sway bar isn't twisted and under tension and waiting to struggle with you)!
3) Knock CV joint inwards about an inch with that rubber mallet.
4) Loosen and remove sway bar nuts under control arm and push sway bar links up and out of hole.
5) Slip ring wrench between CV joint body and over ball joint nut and undo nut. This will provide plenty of torque and the ring wrench will not round off the nut.
6) Separate ball joint with pickle stick (or puller if you don't want to destroy rubber boot).
7) Remove inner bolt holding control arm to subframe.
8) Remove radius arm torx screw.
Remove arm and assemble new arm reverse of above and then do other side of vehicle.

Note that inner control arm bolt should be finally tightened with vehicle weight on suspension so that rubber bushes aren't twisted too much when vehicle is at rest (increases rubber life).
 
#14 ·
right on!;)
 
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