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Just bought a '94 900 convertible

1K views 34 replies 13 participants last post by  Leon 
#1 ·
1. The radio doesn't work, the eBay ad said something about a code? Does anyone here know anything about that?

2. Is there anything I should watch out for with this car? Tips? Hints?

Thanks in advance.....
 
#2 ·
Pull the radio out and see if anybody has written some numbers on it, if so, write them down, put the radio back in and it should ask for a code. Type the nubmers in. No numbers? write down all the information on the radio and call your local friendly saab dealer and ask them to look the code up for you. Live near a saab dealer?, just bring the radio in and ask the service counter guy to look upthe code. If you do get a code, write it down with a sharpie marker on the chassis of the radio for future use. IThe radio will ask for a code anytime the power to the radio is interupted. f the radio is dead, and does not ask for a code, it may be time to give up on it. I have caught grief for saying this before, but in my experience it is true. The saab clarion radios do not live long healthy lives.
 
#5 ·
If there is one thing I have learned in the short time I have owned my Saab it is that unlike most cars they respond well to preventative maintenance. If you can not already verify that this has been done, replace all the fluids, write the mileage down and everything that you did to it on a piece of paper or on that friendly log book that comes with the car. If the previous owner hasn’t kept service records it’s your job to start. Check the air filter and the plugs. Also make sure the battery terminals are clean and that the distributor cap looks clean. Do a good look over for rust and treat any of it accordingly. A quick search will tell you where to look. I’m not sure how mechanically inclined you are but either way don’t dive in and start working one something. Saab’s are very different from domestic cars. Make sure to read up on the procedure or make sure you mechanic is competent with Saabs. Any problems with the clutch/shifting or variable idling are common with higher mileage cars and answers can be found here. I guess a lot of this is common new car owner stuff so feel free to take or leave parts of it. You will love this thing and it will eat your soul. This place is great and I can’t recommend it enough. Welcome aboard! oh and you are going to want to post pictars or else some will threaten to ban you hahaha
 
#6 ·
aznsaab said:
If there is one thing I have learned in the short time I have owned my Saab it is that unlike most cars they respond well to preventative maintenance. If you can not already verify that this has been done, replace all the fluids, write the mileage down and everything that you did to it on a piece of paper or on that friendly log book that comes with the car. If the previous owner hasn’t kept service records it’s your job to start. Check the air filter and the plugs. Also make sure the battery terminals are clean and that the distributor cap looks clean. Do a good look over for rust and treat any of it accordingly. A quick search will tell you where to look. I’m not sure how mechanically inclined you are but either way don’t dive in and start working one something. Saab’s are very different from domestic cars. Make sure to read up on the procedure or make sure you mechanic is competent with Saabs. Any problems with the clutch/shifting or variable idling are common with higher mileage cars and answers can be found here. I guess a lot of this is common new car owner stuff so feel free to take or leave parts of it. You will love this thing and it will eat your soul. This place is great and I can’t recommend it enough. Welcome aboard! oh and you are going to want to post pictars or else some will threaten to ban you hahaha
Of course that would mean I have to figure out how to get the glove comp. open to see if I even got any manuals. (I think it's broken) It took me a while to figure out that the car needed to be in reverse before I could get the key out of ignition. :lol:
 
#7 ·
maae10 said:
Of course that would mean I have to figure out how to get the glove comp. open to see if I even got any manuals. (I think it's broken) It took me a while to figure out that the car needed to be in reverse before I could get the key out of ignition. :lol:
The glove compartment locks - so you might just have to insert and turn the key - :cheesy: .

If you're going to do your own work a Bentley manual will be recommended over and over until you submit and buy one - so be prepared! There's a ton of information on the Classic 900's available in these parts - prepare to absorb it!

One thing to keep in mind, while not a "conventional" car (gearbox bolted to the bottom of the engine, which is essentially in backwards compared to most vehicles) they're not all that hard to work on and parts aren't all that expensive (especially compared to late model VW's and comprable BMW's). They're old enough where you don't need a computer to diagnose most problems.

Things to consider before you start driving a lot are pretty standard for any older vehicle -

As mentioned before - a full tune up (plugs (NOT Bosch platinums), wires (bougicords), fresh oil and filter, check the coolant system (perhaps flush and re-fill with fresh stuff), thermostat (replace it - they're cheap), thermal switch for the fan ( replace it - they're cheap), flush the hydraulic system with nice fresh brake fluid (unless you know it's been done in the last 24 months), check the condition of the pads and rotors, check the condition of the belts and hoses (for the hoses, replace them and the thermostat after you've drained the old coolant to save losing coolant), drain the gearbox oil and replace with fresh (apparently synthetics work well - I just used 10W30) , check and, since it's cheap, replace ALL the vacuum hoses under the hood - they get brittle with age - will crack and make your car run like dung - it seems like a lot of time and money BUT will save you from "discovering" issues down the road.

The cooling system work is really important - you don't want to overheat the engine - it's a great way to introduce yourself to replacing a head gasket.

Oh - when the time comes - you replace the lights on the dash by removing the drivers side speaker grill on the dash.

They're very well made and reliable vehicles, but with any car over 10 years old, a bit of time spent getting them into top mechanical condition before you start logging miles can make for a far happier experience.

Steve
 
#8 ·
SteveTheFolkie said:
The glove compartment locks - so you might just have to insert and turn the key - :cheesy: .

If you're going to do your own work a Bentley manual will be recommended over and over until you submit and buy one - so be prepared! There's a ton of information on the Classic 900's available in these parts - prepare to absorb it!

One thing to keep in mind, while not a "conventional" car (gearbox bolted to the bottom of the engine, which is essentially in backwards compared to most vehicles) they're not all that hard to work on and parts aren't all that expensive (especially compared to late model VW's and comprable BMW's). They're old enough where you don't need a computer to diagnose most problems.

Things to consider before you start driving a lot are pretty standard for any older vehicle -

As mentioned before - a full tune up (plugs (NOT Bosch platinums), wires (bougicords), fresh oil and filter, check the coolant system (perhaps flush and re-fill with fresh stuff), thermostat (replace it - they're cheap), thermal switch for the fan ( replace it - they're cheap), flush the hydraulic system with nice fresh brake fluid (unless you know it's been done in the last 24 months), check the condition of the pads and rotors, check the condition of the belts and hoses (for the hoses, replace them and the thermostat after you've drained the old coolant to save losing coolant), drain the gearbox oil and replace with fresh (apparently synthetics work well - I just used 10W30) , check and, since it's cheap, replace ALL the vacuum hoses under the hood - they get brittle with age - will crack and make your car run like dung - it seems like a lot of time and money BUT will save you from "discovering" issues down the road.

The cooling system work is really important - you don't want to overheat the engine - it's a great way to introduce yourself to replacing a head gasket.

Oh - when the time comes - you replace the lights on the dash by removing the drivers side speaker grill on the dash.

They're very well made and reliable vehicles, but with any car over 10 years old, a bit of time spent getting them into top mechanical condition before you start logging miles can make for a far happier experience.

Steve
Awsome. Thank You!
 
#11 ·
aznsaab said:
Steve, What's wrong with bosch platnum plugs? The previous owner had them installed as I found out when I checked their condition.
most people are happier with the NGK's that Saabs came with. I've had bad luck with the platinums on VW's and Saabs from the late 1980's / early 1990's, and I'm not alone. You might be in for a nice bit of previously unknown pep in your Saab if your run the standard plugs.
 
#16 ·
Pretty, very much so, but this is a 900 NG convertible, according to the pic.. Much of what is true anyway; but the '93 900 OG is a totally different car, only the engine block and head are the same, I believe.

NG = new generation('94 thru '02 and '03 convertible)
OG = old ('79 to '93) or so, the '69 99 is the same basic car(in the middle).....
I have owned a '79, one of my better cars..
 
#18 ·
Could it be a 95 model year but made in 94? What is the date on the doorjam? If it says something like 9/94, then its probably actually a 1995 model.

Nice looking car even though its not a classic. :D

I'll move this to the NG forum for you.

Welcome aboard and good luck with the car.
 
#19 ·
Is there anything I should watch out for with this car? Tips? Hints?

Maae10;

The V-6 engine in your new car, very sharp looking for 3 grand BTW, is an interference engine, meaning the valves can hit the pistons ($$$$) if the timing belt lets go. Your engine has a complicated system of belts, idler pullies and tensioners which are a little pricey themselves but way, way short of the cost of an engine rebuild. If you have records you should be able to tell when this belt service was last done, but if you can't determine it's time to go to a Saab specialist and have them take a peek. There has been some talk about a Saab extended warantee on these belt changes, even at this late date, so maybe a call to Saab with VIN number in hand would be a logical first step, can't hurt anyway.

Good luck,

John

http://www.thesaabsite.com/900new/NG900V6Beltreplacement.htm
 
#25 ·
Nice lookijng car. You need to take somt time and see if the timing belt has been changed. GM would change it for free up to 100k but not after. If it hasn't been done you are riding on borrowed time. 60k max on that belt. As stated befopre, if it goes, no more engine. The V6 is a good, reliable strong motor. Besides the weak link with the Timing belt, It's a PITA to get to the back 3 plugs but it's a good motor.

The 1995 convertibles had some issues with the toneau cover motor. Do a search and look to see if you have the Saab kit installed on that mechanism that keeps it from flexing. If not, get it soon,. It's like $10 and will save you about $1200 if it goes out.

Aside from that, you may want to be aware of the clutch cable that tends to bind on the 1995-1998. Much on the forum about that as well. Also, the 1995 had a different front suspension design than the 1996+ models. There was a kit to fix the control arm issues. Not sure how to see if it's been done but apparently it cures alot of issues. At 110k miles, you may want to also watch for a fuel pump to start acting flaky and possibly the Crankshaft Position Sensor. The all tend to have an 80k lifespan so if they haven't been changed, they may bug you later.

Nice ride, enjoy!
 
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