SaabCentral Forums banner

NG900 104K once-over, phase one

844 views 14 replies 5 participants last post by  bntroberts 
#1 ·
Today I decided to change the oil on my new (to me) '95 NG900. At 104k miles, and with no service records beyond 30k, it was the wise thing to do. The oil change went fine, as they have want to do, but some more questions popped up.

When buying the oil, I decided I'd get some air filters too. Autozone didn't have any cabin air filters (unless they were well hidden, or even in plain site which wouldn't be surprising since I'm not the most receptive of individuals) but they did have regular intake filters. I got one of those along with a fuel filter. I decided that I'd tackle flushing the coolant, brake fluids, and gearbox and changing the belts at a later date. I work better in spurts.

With my car on the hydraulic lift, I traced back from the engine along the fuel lines to the tank and spotted the fuel filter (but didn't dare touch it, since my Haynes manual doesn't even ship for another three weeks). Replacement of that shall have to wait until I find a visual guide (or eleborately-narrated textual one), since that's definitely a system I do not want to touch without absolute certainty.

The next step then was to change the intake filter. OR WAS IT!? (queue dramatic music) Opening the plastic housing revealed a white-as-snow filter with only slight discoloration (read: grey) where the dirty intake air directly blew onto the filter. So I didn't even bother changing it. Now I've got an extra air filter. OR DO I!? (queue dramatic music track 2) Basically my question is "do I wait until the filter's black as night to change it"?

Another concern I have, since I want to replace the transmission fluid next go, is the subject of "upgrading" to synthetic gearbox oil and flushing the system if I do. A search of this forum yielded information that the "best" stuff to use is that MTF 0063 (which I'll try to find mail order, haven't even looked into it yet). As for the flushing, is it just drain/replug/fill/drain, or would it be prudent to drain/replug/fill/drive car in all gears for a bit/drain/replug/fill/drive car in all gears for a bit/drain/replug/fill/sip on delicious smoothie in celebration of a job-well-done?

I'll have more questions about brake fluid and rotors and calipers and pads and tires and inertia and brick walls and medical bills later. Right now I don't care so much about stopping as much as I care that the vroom-vroom bits on my automobile don't die.
 
See less See more
#2 ·
Tons of fun stuff in the thread!

Fuel filter, nothing to worry about. You would just need the wrench that fits the banjo bolts, and the wrenches that fit either end of the filter. With the car up, and something to catch the fuel, loosen one side, then the other. The fuel will spray and trickle out. Once its lost fuel pressure, you can then remove the bolts. Carefull fuel will still be in the filter. The filter is also held on by a strap with a Torx screw. Your tire change kit should have come with a screw driver handle and 2 double sided torx inserts. Once out, slide the new copper washers on, and rebolt.

94-96 cars, originally came with a larger hub diameter, so if you ever wanted to add Viggen or 9-5 brakes, the hub would need to be replaced or machined down. I have had good luck with EBC greenstuff pads. ATE Super Blue is a popular fluid.

Aftermarket fluid for the gearbox is also an option.
http://www.genuinesaab.com/psi/files/93-95man-oil.htm
Fluid and flush info.
 
#3 ·
I was actually reading that page you linked to a second before I came back to my thread here. One thing I have a tiny concern about though is this:
http://genuinesaab.com/psi/files/gearboxoil.htm

Which looks to be the gearbox oil they were touting before the newer ATM 0063 stuff was available. That's fine, I don't want to use the older stuff, except in the page I linked they say you'll need a new filler plug, but on the page you linked there's no mention. What would be the purpose of replacing the filler plug anyway?
 
#4 ·
They are thread locked in and a random metric allen size.

The fill plug is next to impossible to brake out, and it will probably round. I think the new plug is a hexagon bolt but I'm not exactly sure.

Also to get to the drain plug you either need to drop the subframe or find a shorty allen socket, and get really creative with the angles.
 
#6 ·
Oh yeah, I was just clicking through that site about a week ago. He reminds me of another Russian guy I used to know when I lived in Pittsburgh who told me that the only two things you need to know to fix a car are "righty-tighty" and "lefty-loosey". Definitely a great site that not only has great pictures but helps instill a sense of do-it-yourselfness when you'd be otherwise scared to even open the hood.
 
#7 · (Edited)
Tweek's Turbos said:
You would just need the wrench that fits the banjo bolts...The filter is also held on by a strap with a Torx screw...Once out, slide the new copper washers on, and rebolt.
DOUBLE POST!

I'm sorry, but you've used some terms I'm not familiar with. I'm pretty new to the DIY-mechanic thing, and even newer to actually talking to people about it. Banjo bolts? Torx screw? Also you mention new washers. Should I pick some up?

Also, this is a good post to ask what thread lock is AND what's the purpose of the Check Plug on the gearbox? My guess is that it would be where the 1.9 liter mark is?
 
#8 ·
FilleAuFish said:
DOUBLE POST!

I'm sorry, but you've used some terms I'm not familiar with. I'm pretty new to the DIY-mechanic thing, and even newer to actually talking to people about it. Banjo bolts? Torx screw? Also you mention new washers. Should I pick some up?

Also, this is a good post to ask what thread lock is AND what's the purpose of the Check Plug on the gearbox? My guess is that it would be where the 1.9 liter mark is? Correct ye be..[/QUOTE]
Banjo bolts - in a way these look like a banjo.
The bolt is hollow, the banjo portion is rugged and strong for a 100% reliable fitting. Two soft washers are used for a perfect seal, these washers can be reused, but then the seal may not be perfect..
Torx is the GM standard, and many others, looks like a cross between the old Phillips and the yet older Allen head. One reason why mechanics own $5 to $10 grand in tools...
LockTite - a great Permantex thread sealer and thread lock..BUT, the correct one must be used, there are many and they do work !!!!
IMO, no thread lock should be used on any drain plug - so what if it "leaks" a drop or two....
The washer suffices, I think Saab was paranoid about these drops or two......
 
#9 ·
FilleAuFish said:
The next step then was to change the intake filter. OR WAS IT!? (queue dramatic music) Opening the plastic housing revealed a white-as-snow filter with only slight discoloration (read: grey) where the dirty intake air directly blew onto the filter. So I didn't even bother changing it. Now I've got an extra air filter. OR DO I!? (queue dramatic music track 2) Basically my question is "do I wait until the filter's black as night to change it"?


If you managed to go to autozone and get an air filter that fits your car hats off you. I attempted this a few weeks ago and the only filter they had referenced for a saab wouldn't fit. It was too wide and much thinner than the actual filter. It was also a piece of crap STP. :(
 
#11 ·
IMO, STP,Fram,Scantech are "low end" in todays "Wally-World" (Walmart) world. But that does not mean that a man should avoid WalMart -PepBoys-Autozone - on and on.......Buyer beware is the watchword.....These companies sell some quality mixed in with the junque..

As the consumer becomes more filled with data (smarter ??) , it follows that the retailer also is smarter than ever...

Yet, I have no trouble with the Fram air filter..the installer should write the date/mileage on the edge of the unit...
 
#14 · (Edited)
My STP air filter fit without issue. Go figure. WIX is a reputable oil-filter brand I thought? Decent filtration media, etc. I won't use FRAM oil-filters anymore, they are garbage and can muck up your motor with cardboard fibers.

I might go with a K&N air filter down the road one of these days, but is there really a huge performance difference between a $14 STP and $50 K&N air filter other than the filtration media? For a non-turbo does it really matter?

-zen

bntroberts said:
Yes, typically lower end...but also so attractively inexpensive too. What blew my mind is that is just didin't fit, period. There was no way I could even force the damn thing into place.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top