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: BAAbS


idiot_saabvant
11th July 2007, 01:58 PM
I've decided to start a project thread (and not due to peer pressure:o). As life is a learning process, perhaps some person can learn from my mistakes and save themselves some time and more importantly money. This is a great forum, and I hope that I can contribute to it as professionally as all on here in the project threads.

I bought my SAAB because when I was fifteen I ran away from home :cheesy:and lived in Europe (Austria) and then moved to Sweden with my sixteen year old girlfriend:nono;. We were poor and destitute, but had enough monies to buy an old 95. What a fun time travelling throughout Sweden, Norway and Finland.

In 2004, I had extra cash and found a 1988 SAAB T16. Fair condition, one owner (albiet kids) and a cheap price ($2000US w/125K). The owner thought the car was tired, but after research on this forum, I thought all I had to do was replace the vacuum hoses. Almost true.

My hobby is engines and my wife. I have a souped up turbo diesel (400+bhp) and several snowmachines that produce 175bhp (700cc) and 190bhp (800cc). I am a skilled mechanic and machinist, although that is not my profession. (neither is spelling :cry:)

So here I am, several thousand dollars later, a SAAB that may produce in excess of 200 bhp, and chews up tires in one summer. I just bought a set of Nokian WR something or other and have driven through 1/2 the thread inless than a month and less than 2000 miles. (heavy foot, BUT NO burning rubber).

I'll post pictures and give a detailed list of improvements to date.

See ya in a bit.

pierre

IronJoe
11th July 2007, 02:47 PM
Great to see ya on here pierre. But you forgot the rules ;)

Post Immediately:
-pics of your car
-mods list

:cheesy: :cheesy: :cheesy:

RWElphinstone
11th July 2007, 03:00 PM
Hey IronJoe, you missed one, so I'll edit your post for ya.

Great to see ya on here pierre. But you forgot the rules ;)

Post Immediately:
-pics of your car
-pics of your wife
-mods list

:cheesy: :cheesy: :cheesy:

Joking! I kid, I kid!

:cool:

Albert Trout
11th July 2007, 06:57 PM
Glad to have you onboard Pierre :cheesy:

idiot_saabvant
11th July 2007, 07:54 PM
Mods to BAAbS:

Body:

New welds and structural plates inner right wheel well. See http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=87155

Little rust

Le Bra bra

Suspension:

Front and back Koni shocks, stock SPG springs all round.

Welded box lower a-arms

New urethane bushings and rubber front only.

New drive train both sides

New Bembo slotted brake disks and Kevlar brake pads (don’t work well in cold weather) front only

Rebuilt brake calipers, shall get new next time these make weird noises, front only

SS brake lines

Engine:

All new sensors except upshift sensor

Removed AC don’t need it in Alaska

30lb injectors, JSP stage I ECU chip, Bosch 538 ECU

3.0 bar FPR

Custom made 2.5 inch exhaust DP (wrapped in asbestos cloth), bung for O2 and EGT sensors see http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=99377

High flow cat and muffler on 2.5 exhaust piping

Stock IC (but peer pressure to go FMIC)

Stock exhaust manifold (wrapped in asbestos cloth)

Hogged out TB +2mm and removed all protrusions

Fat IC piping from +90 c900

Forge BOV

New front engine mount

Group Nine APC stage II, stock APC (winter driving) and Areo900 APC mod for upcoming winter testing

Group Nine vacuum module

New Magnicore 8mm plug wires

Mallory Coil (Thanks ShadowWorks!!) 29216

NGK BCPR7EIX or BCPR6EIX very expensive but work ($45US set of four) spark plugs

Garrett T3, trim 60 A/R 45ish (hogged out as much as possible), stage I exhaust 0.68ish A/R (hogged out as much as possible), rebuilt by myself (easy) with all the fancy stuff 360 degree oil seals and trust bearing plate

Fancy blue silicone tubing

New crank pulley, power steering pump, power steering rack (first thing I replaced and STILL kept her (BAAbS)

AMM adjusted to 370ohm

Stock clutch

Original transmission, just turned 150k last week

K&N dual inlet air filter

Future list:

Rebuild rear end to eliminate sag

Timing chain tensioner

New lifters

Modified intake to move torque up rpm by 500 rpm (remove about or inch from intake tubing, requires me doing calc again ‘cause I forgot) and re-welding cast aluminum (this will be a learning experience!!)

Head porting ala ShadowWorks

Equal length exhaust headers, shall fab this winter when I rebuild my snowmachine exhaust pipes as I trash them at least once a month see www.frontierfilms.com (http://www.frontierfilms.com/) for why. I’m in there somewhere

New high performance clutch

Scanwest tranny (when everyone on here donates $5 to my transmission fund :cheesy:)

New paint job to match Alaska flag colors

And

Last

New body panels so I look like an SPG or Carlsson with matching rims (minilites)

idiot_saabvant
26th July 2007, 12:11 PM
I replaced my 24lb injectors with the Bosch 945's (30lb) and also installed the JSP stage I chip last night. I could not find my 3 bar FPR, so just had the 2.8 bar to play with.

First impression in a driving test was tentative. Not the power increase I would have thought. Or better described as smoother power band, so my power is not so "peaky".

This morning, my thoughts are different. Power is there, this upgrade will make winter driving much better. No spikes in power curve, the turbo pulls throughout all rpms (except above 6000rpm), lumpy idle (but this reminds me of my diesel:cheesy:). I only have about ten miles on this mod. So have yet to fiddle with AMM, and boost, as I'm not running more than 13-15 psi. My target for boost is 20-22 psi. I'll adjust after I get my 3 bar FPR installed.

I also replaced the three intake manifold rubber grommets for vacuum pickup with brass plugs and 1/8" or 3/8" brass nipples. Got tired of chasing vacuum leaks with the stock rubber setup. I machined down and then set with MarineTex (same as JB Weld).

pierre

IronJoe
26th July 2007, 12:30 PM
still no pictures ...

http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/albums/album49/picard.jpg

idiot_saabvant
26th July 2007, 12:41 PM
Keep those pictures coming..... maybe by the time we get enough people to get the group buy skid-plate finished, I'll have some pictures uploaded;). I'll bring my camera home from work today and REALLY try to get some pictures up for you guys to photoshop and make BAABS look uber cool:cool:

pierre

Matthew
26th July 2007, 05:39 PM
Le Bra bra
Don't do it!! Car bras make the 900 look fugly :o

idiot_saabvant
27th July 2007, 03:05 PM
Okay, as promised, I went out and took some pictures of BAAbS. Wish it was sunny.


http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/BaabSscn3
http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/BaabSscn2
http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/BaabSscn1
http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/BaabSeng1
http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/BaabSeng2
http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/BaabSeng3

Thanks and please comment on how I can make my car better.

pierre

DosEvil
28th July 2007, 02:59 AM
I've seen you a few times on the New Seward Highway. You had the black bra on your car at the time. At least I assume it was you. Nice car.

idiot_saabvant
29th July 2007, 03:20 PM
Thanks Dos Evil.

I updated the 2.8 bar FPR for a 3.0 bar. WOW Now I like the full power and little boost taper. Very strong throttle response. Now I just require my 0.63 A/R exhaust housing and new turbine and I'll be compatible with the JSP stage I chips specs.

I'm currently boring out my exhaust housing and connecting flange. I got lots of grinding.......

pierre

idiot_saabvant
7th August 2007, 10:26 AM
Spent the last two weekends getting my turbo rebuilt. Two months ago noticed that my compressor wheel was bent so had the cash to rebuild the compressor side, but no funds for the exhaust side. Been slowly stockpiling parts. So two weekends ago I started to port/grind my new T3 0.63 A/R exhaust housing. I wanted to replace with stock 0.42 a/r, but could not source one and the stock was $50 more. So purchased a Turbonetics 0.63 a/r exhaust housing http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album598/saab20, matching faceplate and new wg valve.

Noticed that there was alot of room for porting/grinding to match parts and remove sharp edges. Here the faceplate is mated to the exhaust housing and one can see the overlap and edges http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album598/saab21 so I ground away, rounded edges and so forth. The faceplate I was able to open up another 2-3mm or more to match my 2.5 inch DP diameter http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album598/saab24. Also the inlet side to the exhaust housing still had casting "lumps" and the inherent roughness of the casting process http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album598/saab23...prepare to grind.... and grind....and grind some more until http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album598/saab25 took out about 1.5 mm overall and enlargened the wg hole by 1mm. Then I removed the DP and turbo and was surprised to find the system very white. My DP is only two months old, no carbon build up any reason why this might be? http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album598/saab26 , http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album598/saab27 ,

Next came the compressor side. Stock opening is 33mm http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album598/saab28, but lots of room for grinding (it sucks that it is aluminum), so when finished got about 4mm more http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album598/saab29 . I also ground out about 1mm from the compressor intake, but did not polish as Breakin5speeds has done recently to his turbo. So start to put back together and notice that the housing is wider than stock by about 1cm http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album598/saab30 and that I need a new wg valve. So begin to remove the old wg from its bracket http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album598/saab31 and install the new wg valve http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album598/saab32. Then I just had to bolt up the turbo and go. The return pipe was a bugger because of the change in width. Installed the new turbo looks like this http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album598/saab33 :cool:.

Lessons learned are: a rebuilt turbo is cheaper than rebuilding, but not as rewarding and now I got spare turbo parts. And the oil return pipe is a bugger to fit, after the fact :evil:.

pierre

philb
7th August 2007, 10:45 AM
I like the replacement turbo elbow. I'd say that gives most of the benefit of a jt downpipe. Did you make a template first, or just make a bend and cut it to fit?

idiot_saabvant
7th August 2007, 12:05 PM
Philb,

My DP is just a short radius 2.5 inch elbow I purchased from the local muffler shop. I held the connection/angle to the exhaust pipe and cut the elbow as shown at the turbo connection. If I remember, the angle was like 115. I also purchased the 3-hole flanges, O2 welding bung and used my Sawzall for the cut. The hardest part was welding the flanges on at the correct angle. Tack, tack, measure, fit, grind off and tack again. About $60Us inparts, the O2 bung was $30US :(. I used my MIG for this project and did not set off the fire alarm in my condo! :nono; (this time) :D

pierre

Albert Trout
8th August 2007, 06:13 AM
Nice work there Pierre :D

Is that a wee Goal Tender's helmet I can spy in your car Pierre? I used to play in goals at field hockey in my younger days. Always wanted a shot at Ice Hockey but I'm handicapped by the fact I've never been on an ice rink...

idiot_saabvant
8th August 2007, 02:12 PM
Keen observation Mr. Trout. Yes it is a goalie helmet for ice hockey. I got to travel to Russia, Norway, Finland and Canada eh? in my younger days.

idiot_saabvant
19th August 2007, 11:49 AM
Well it is amazing what these cars can do when properly tuned (like carry a frdige :p ) I'll be off the road for several weeks as I got to weld a wheel arch and replace a CV joint. Took a corner to fast and must have rolled over on my tires, 'cause about half-way through a grinding thump thump from the right front tire. I truely hope it is a CV and not the tranny. I'll post pics as I tear into her.

pierre

idiot_saabvant
20th August 2007, 12:06 PM
Okay, so I propped up the car, removed the shock and this is what I saw http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saab34. Took out the air tools and sanded away the rubber coating, primer and this is what it looked like after that http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saab35. I'll need to remove the nuts, try to weld a patch in the left corner, drill holes at the end of the crack (and yes Mr. Trout your keen observation will reveal that I tried to fix this once. The very first weld I ever did on this car). I also gotta grind down some of the rolled edges. Then I made a cardboard template like this http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saab36. Now I just gotta cut my gauge steel, and begin welding the stiffener plate http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saab37 I had to quit before I was finished with the plate as the missus was coming home from work and she frowns on me welding http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saab38 (as you know a previous experience cost me $800 for setting off the fire alarm:cry:) . Any way I'm going to round up parts and get some 0.25mm wire to finishthe job. Luckily the missus is on a work trip to NY this weekend so I should be able to get my welding done.:lol:

pierre

idiot_saabvant
26th August 2007, 03:28 PM
Replaced the CV and welded my wheel arch so I could replace the CV. NO problem with the CV, so it is the tranny. Looked for a donor or some method to get a spare tranny and found a running 89 SPG. Body is kind of trashed, has 190K, but tranny works, and lots of other goodies (new tires, new Bilstien HD shocks, Aero rims, 2003 purchased spoiler, all the body trim excpet for front right corner, new set of winter rubber and good glass). Its been sitting in a driveway for 1.5 years, and for $800US its mine.

I know the ECU, AIC and AMM are not compatible but all else should be. Also with it being a '89 it "should" have the uprated pinion in the tranny. Now more or less I have two of the same. I also get to deal with the moving seat belts and the special code for the radio.

Now to find a place to remove my engine, rebuild tranny and go.

pierre

idiot_saabvant
11th September 2007, 11:48 AM
While I resolve my tranny issues with my '88, I picked up this [/url] http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saab41 (http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saab35) '89 for $800US. The ECU and AMM were defunct, so replaced AMM but could only find a '89 N/A ECU [url]http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saab40 . Has 197K, body fair http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saab42 , electronics only 1/2 work, new perelli summer tires, new nokian winter tires w/studs, new bilstiens, new brembo rotors, new tranny (?.. this one is really tight!), perhaps recent head gasket, http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saab43 AC (boo hiss this is coming out quick), interior so so http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saab39 body fair to poor.

Plan. Pull engine/tranny '88, remove tranny and rebuild, search for remaining body panels '89, strip one of them with best rust free body, paint and put back together.

LH 2.4 is nice, but no micro tuning (i.e. AMM) this system can run with vacuum loose, not like a LH 2.2 which would stumble and have idle issues.

Like the stiffer springs and shocks. I've always preferred stiff suspensions.

pierre

idiot_saabvant
19th December 2007, 12:45 PM
Okay, finally got some serious time to revise. Pics of the 89SPG I bought for $800US, http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saab39, http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saab41, http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saab43, nothing special but she gets me around.

pierre

idiot_saabvant
19th December 2007, 12:54 PM
I've had BAAbS in my friends garage for over two months now. I've had an hour here two there, anyway was able to remove the engine this weekend. A pretty straightforward task, http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/s40. I took off the exhaust manifold and ground away the "tab". Boy that thing takes up a lot of space http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/s42. I just wonder how important it is to pulse behaviour. But I've encountered few situations were more restrictions were better. Fabbed up a clutch despression tool because I forgot to despress the clutch before I removed the hydraulic feed line http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/s41, and fitment to the clutch. Those preesure fingers take a lot of force to depress. Watch out fingers.

IronJoe
19th December 2007, 01:06 PM
Nice kill on the SPG pierre! I'm sure you love it :cheesy:


As far as the manifold tab, you should know on the non egr manifolds that tab was not present.. (1990 or so?). So Saab definitely decided that it was unnecessary.

idiot_saabvant
10th January 2008, 05:14 PM
Have removed engine and now head. Was surprised at how rich the pistons looked and valves. This is good. http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saabeb, http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saabeb1, . I have to easy out two broken studs exhaust side, replace springs and lifters, re-seat valves, bore/port the heck out of the exhaust side, theres a ton of material that can be removed, put in new rings and texture the bores, plain head and re-install. Oh yes I was also able to basically destroy the plastic feed conduits for the cam races. Boy those things are brittle!

pierre

idiot_saabvant
15th January 2008, 11:58 AM
So I had time Sunday to perform some work on my head. Here is the intake gasket matched to the head http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saabh1. Notice that I just ported to match gasket and on the thoughts of Breakin5Speeds, ported the "top" of the port into an oval shape http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saabh2 because thats how I've seen more modern intake geometry look, matching intake manifold http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saabh3, and finally the exhaust side requires porting and per Allessence, I shall just port to match gasket and not overport more http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saabh4. This is the number 1 cylinder, the number four had the same amount of "blockage". This is almost 3mm that I can port. So after I finish porting, all exhaust ports should be close to the same volume. This takes alot of time.

pierre

idiot_saabvant
17th January 2008, 01:51 PM
Got last night to remove valves. Here is a final pic of my porting intake side http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saabh9 Valves were easy to remove with proper tool (as is most work, having proper tool) http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saabh7 and them removed [/url]http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saabh8 (http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saabh3) There was a major lip underneath the intake side of the heads, so I ground them down smooth without touching the valve seats http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saabh6 (http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saabh3) the exhaust valves looked okay, plus I did not have a tool of similar size. Final pic of head [url]http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saabh5 Note baggy with paper towels wrapped around each valve and marked. I've done this to each component of the valve train, with lots of diagrams and ink. Now I'll submit the head for tanking and shaving, then lap the valves.

pierre

idiot_saabvant
21st January 2008, 12:31 PM
Was able to lap the valves this weekend prior to getting the head tanked. Took each valve out of its wrapper, placed them in an aluminum cup cake pans http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saabh11. I used Oven Off to remove the deposits on the valves prior to using a wire brush to remove all the cake and baked on deposits http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saabh12. You do not have long to keep the valves in the tin, as Oven Off eats/dissolves aluminum!:nono; SO DO NOT USE TO REMOVE CARBON ON YOUR ALUMINUM HEADS:nono;:nono; Also wear plastic gloves. So here is a final exhaust/intake lapped versus unlapped http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saabh10 . You can tell when the lapping is done by the sound and by the visual. Notice a consistent width and brightness to the area lapped. For the exhaust valves I had to use both course and fine lapping compound, the valves seem to pit easily. Glad I did the lapping prior to tanking as I would have a hard time removing all the compound.

pierre

Boosted
24th January 2008, 04:52 PM
Was there any other reason for the head tear down other than porting? How is that tranny rebuild coming?

idiot_saabvant
28th January 2008, 05:07 PM
Boosted,
I decided to do a major rebuild of all since I had the engine out. I'm almost to the tranny. Should be there this week, so should begin dismantling the tranny next week. I found a SAAB genuine tranny manual, so now can use that as reference. I also found a local tranny guy whom will help me if I need. I haven't exactly figured out how to measure back lash.

pierre

idiot_saabvant
30th January 2008, 02:03 PM
I was able to remove the engine from the tranny last night. No big deal other than breaking the sealant bond. I also took in my flywheel to have faced and lightened. I decided to increase the radius of the back by half inch. This should amount to about 1.5 -2 lbs in savings. Will post pics when finished with work. So the remainder of this week will be to pressure wash the tranny prior to dismantling, figure out how to measure backlash with tools that I have (dial indicator, several styles of feeler gauges, and $ to purchase other tools).

Oh on a side note I bought a Chinese knock off of a BOV. I wasted my time and $. Poop. I would have been half way there in money saved if I had waited, but the blue anodized coating was just to tempting.;oops:

pierre

idiot_saabvant
31st January 2008, 01:41 PM
Got my flywheel done yesterday. Here it is before milling http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saabfw and then after (clutch side) http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saabfw_003 and back side with weight removed http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saabfw_001. I got 1.4 lbs off
and could have taken more, but this is what I bought ($125 US). It was also balanced, but I do not have a picture of the holes that were drilled on the surface that the timing marks are on.

pierre

idiot_saabvant
4th February 2008, 12:16 PM
Got a lot of work done this weekend. Got the crank out of the engine. http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saabpw1 Crank bearings were in good shape. Only one set had the copper/brass show through the zinc/lead covering. And that oddly enough was between #'s 2&3 pistons. But the ends bearings showed little wear. The movement of the crank was within tolerance. The connecting rod bearings showed more brass/copper, but only a hint on all of them. Shall replace all with new. I used 800 grits sandpaper to remove the glass/shine on the crank bearing journals. Just a light sanding motion. I painted lots of parts, t.chain cover, flywheel engine cover, engine mounts. Also choose this weekend to pressure wash my tranny and other parts to paint. It was only 0F (-18C) outside so no big deal http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saabpw3 you just had to wash by braile (feel your way) http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saabpw2. I'll wait until the weather is warmer to pressure wash the engine bay. My face kind of froze from the spray and fog.

Oh, my pistons looked in good shape no cracks like Xassh, little blow by and some minor scuffing on #4. Shall submit my block for hot tank and decking this week and begin building/fabbing up a tranny mount to mount tranny to engine stand when tranny re-build begins.

idiot_saabvant
5th February 2008, 12:18 PM
So here is a culmination of the last two weeks. http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saabpi1 Painting different parts, head job (I also tried to polish the combustion chamber), (flywheel not shown), exhaust manifold tanked. Twenty years of grime takes awhile to remove and lots of paper towels to get clean prior to painting. I've taken the time to show the main bearings and wear (flywheel to oil pump) http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saabpi2, my crank, caps and pistons http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saabpi3 and finally the pistons http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saabpi4 . The bearing wear was from the "top" bearing to the connecting rods. Notice that all the blow by is where the ring gap should be if installed correctly. Figure as the rings wore, the gap widened and thus allowed blow by.

I'll take in my block today for tanking and decking, and progress my fabrication of tranny stand tonight. At least the welding may keep me warm.

pierre

philb
5th February 2008, 12:45 PM
Great stuff! So are you going to get the rotating assembly lightened and balanced as well? :)

idiot_saabvant
6th February 2008, 09:28 AM
Made some progress on fabbing up my tranny stand. http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saabts1 I'll drill holes tonight, to attach tranny, drill/weld threaded rod so I can attach mount to engine stand and hopefully start to dismantle tranny. http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saabts2 I used 1/8 inch plate, angle and C-channel.

No I will not balance the crank or lighten. I may check the weight of my pistons/rods to see how close they are. Should be within six grams. If not, then I'll drill out some wt.

pierre

Boosted
6th February 2008, 10:04 PM
I just set my transmision on the 'old work bench. It did the job. Are you going to be able to make a tool to check the pinion depth? I made a tool but it only told me if the depth was the same after the new bearings. It was just a piece of aluminum with a threaded rod through it.

idiot_saabvant
8th February 2008, 04:58 PM
Got my block back two days ago, not bad job, just a few more coins than I thought http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saabb2. But at least I got that done. Primered block, may just leave it this way, as no consensus on colour, (other than cheesy...which I haven't figured out how to paint) http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saabbl3. And yes I'll wire brush off paint on the gasket surfaces, and re-thread all my bolt holes with tap and die. I'll put together the bottom end this weekend, as the valves I ordered from the right coast have yet to arrive and that was from 1.13.08. I've weighed my pistons and all are within 2 grams, this includes new bearings and rings.

I'll also mount the tranny this weekend and begin to fab up a tool for measuring backlash. I'm going to use a plastic that goes onto the bottom of a skid for a snowmachine. I got plenty, can be sawed easily and drilled and I can get it square within the tranny. Final configuration of tranny stand. http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saabbl1

pierre

idiot_saabvant
11th February 2008, 12:56 PM
Got to work some this weekend. Pistons took longer to clean than I had thought. The most curious part was that all of my oil holes for each piston on the exhaust side were blocked. http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saabbla1. So I made sure that each was open and could dribble oil through them. I wonder how long my engine would have lasted if these had not been cleaned soon. Put in new rings and oil scrapers http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saabbla3 and then installed into sleeve. I thought I could use a oil filter wrench to compress the rings and then slide the piston into the sleeve. Guess I'm not that coordinated. I had to go get the propoer tool which made it SO much easier. Painted the block the propoer red colour. Not shiney http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saabbla2.

Then these are my lubricants/cleaners of choice. http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saabbla5 I like the clear grease, plus it washes off easier when stuck on clothes. This is a high performance grease that is used in the food processing industry. Simple Green is good for removing oil. Lucas is my engine re-build lube. And PB Blaster for removing those tough nuts.

pierre

idiot_saabvant
13th February 2008, 12:24 PM
Made more progress on my engine. Could not find a gasket for the flywheel end of the engine, perhaps called the back engine plate anyway, found some anaerobic sealant and applied as http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saaben5, I also did the face of the engine block (not shown), bolted down and installed my flywheel http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saaben3. When I got up this morning I had a niggling feeling that perhaps the rear seal does not fit far enough onto the flywheel bolt plate. I know I checked it prior to installing the flywheel ....but.

I ordered a ton of new 8mm bolts of various lengths, from 18mm long to 75mm long. Got them in allen head and bolt head with integral washer. I had a list to be filled out. An equal number of both allen and washer head. Needless to say I could not get one type of head to bolt up the timing chain cover, as my order was incomplete. This sucks as I paid over a ben franklin for these bolts and now have to get more. Anyway, here is my TC bolted back on. In the end, all the bolts shall be allen head (just my thing), except those bolting the oil pump cover. I'll leave these as shown for easier removal whilst in the car. http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saaben4


I've thought about waste gating my exhaust manifold. If I do it, then I'll use the round area just before the flange. http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saaben2 This measures about 25mm, so I'll drill it out, put the manifold in the oven to heat to 300-400F, then weld on an enlarger/elbow from 25mm to 40mm tubing. and go from there. I've tried getting ahold of Jak, but no response yet.

If I get my valves, then I'll put on the head, else up goes the tranny on the stand and a new adventure begins.

pierre

Matthew
14th February 2008, 11:12 AM
This is a great thread - I'm really interested in your work.

The block looks good :D Shame we can't get Duplicolor paint in the UK as I need a decent engine enamel for my own project. Holts-Lloyd make Duplicolor paint under licence but whether it's the same stuff or not I don't know.

How much steel was skimmed off the block deck?

I'm using Permatex Ultra Slick Car Engine Assembly Lubricant for my car's engine build-up, Simoniz 5 Wheel Silver for the cast ally bits (after I've blast-cleaned them) and PlusGas for the seized nuts. The PlusGas hasn't been getting much of a look-in though now I have an impact gun to undo stuff :D

As for gaskets, apparently a lot of them have been discontinued in favour of the Loctite 518 anaerobic sealant. Glad you're using that and not silicone sealant (RTV) :o

idiot_saabvant
17th February 2008, 11:25 AM
Thanks for the props Matthew!

I took only 0.0025 thousands of an inch, just enough to remove the dimples put in by the head gasket.

I was able to finish rebuilding the block of my engine as my valves have STILL yet to arrive. So I made some gaskets for the block heater http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saabt1 and the oil pressure sensor. I decided not to use a sealant (Loctite 518), instaed went for the gasket. This is a high temp, water/oil gasket and is at least 1mm thick.

SOOOOOOOOOOO
I was able to borrow a dial indicator, clamp and funky flexible rod thingy. And begin to measure my backlash http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saabt2 (Notice the chip in the ring gear)and try again to measure http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saabt3. Trying to measure this thickness is tedious and takes time. One is trying to measure less than the thickness of an male's facial hair. I measured 0.010 thousands of an inch. Proper measurement is 0.007 thousands of an inch.

And finally one cause for my failure, chips in the ring gear http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saabt4. Every fifth or sixth groove has this chipping on the leading edge. Would presume that the pinion gear failed due to flex, or a bearing failed and metal flakes are everywhere.

Oh I like my tranny stand, but was surprised at the remaining oil left inside when I turned it upside down. At least a pint.

pierre

Boosted
17th February 2008, 03:47 PM
Well, that box isn't worth rebuilding then. Did you get a diff cover from luke @ saabrally? That will help prevent that kind of failure.

idiot_saabvant
17th February 2008, 06:37 PM
Bummer. So the tranny flexed when I went around a corner and the ring gear "flexed" into the pinion?

Yes I have one of Luke's steel diff covers.

ps

Boosted
17th February 2008, 09:06 PM
Bummer. So the tranny flexed when I went around a corner and the ring gear "flexed" into the pinion?

Yes I have one of Luke's steel diff covers.

ps

The internet rumors say that if the wheels spin too much and grip fast and hard again that the back of the case will flex causing the mis-alignment of the ring and pinion gears.

idiot_saabvant
23rd February 2008, 09:28 PM
While searching for a pinion and ring gear I was able to find a replacement pinion and ring gear and more importantly a steel pinion bearing housing http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saabtr2. But to my surprise I was offered a chillcast tranny housing. Yes:cheesy: So for $125 US, this is my Saturday haul... http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saabtr3 . I'll have to fab up a exhaust pipe bracket from some other location. http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saabtr4 ...Man these are some thick ribs and perhaps transverse to flex..... http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saabtr5 wait until you see the inside of the tranny these square side ribs are thick!!!! :cheesy: see what I mean http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saabtr6. Also look at where the transaxle area is so much beefier on the chillcast than the 88 case http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saabtr9. I'll begin to get the corrosion of this case and dismantle my 88 tranny and put the inards into the chillcast with metal pinion bearing. Funny how 1978-80 circa SAAB tranny stuff fits a 88. All I got to say is that this is a beefy tranny case. Get one.:cheesy: :cool: :cheesy:

pierre

idiot_saabvant
24th February 2008, 10:20 AM
I learned several things about a SAAB tranny that I have never heard before. First, one can reuse 1/4 syncros for 2/3 syncros even though they are different. Second, one can turn around a layshft and reuse it when the scalling has worn through the chrome. This guy just uses a thin cutting disk to cut the groove in the end of the shaft. Also he thinks backlash should be in the 0.003 to 0.005 range which is tighter then spec'd 0.007.

pierre

idiot_saabvant
25th February 2008, 10:03 AM
I was able to put in my new higher spring rate valves this Sunday. The instructions were okay, they just didn't say to put in the shims PRIOR to putting on the valve oil seal http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saabta9 so I had to take each seal out, then put in the shims then re-install the seals. Here is a pic of the tools I used to rebuild my head http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saabta12. That right angle thing really helps to hold the collets in place while you get the second one in and the magnet thing also. Just make sure you center the top valve spring cover/collet holder prior to putting pressure on the spring http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saabta1 . After I got all the valves/springs in, I test each combustion chamber by fill them with mineral spirits and seeing how fast they drain http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saabta2. They held for three-five minutes. Valves seated:cheesy:

So after my valves passed the fluid test, I installed the lifters http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saabta5 , then the cam shafts. It was easy as I had documented where each componant came from and went to http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saabta6. And heads sans oil race. I do NOT like these new timing chain sprockets, seem thin. WE'll see how they mate up with the made in Asia timing chain. http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saabta8.

I almost put in a new head as I found a 2.3 and 2.1 when I found my chill cast box. But becasue I ported this head and blue printed it also, figured I keep this one, save up the money and get those at a future date. Need to get my tranny together.

I'll rebuild my 88 tranny with my new ring and pinion gear and begin to gather parts for the chill cast box. NO reason to waste the chill cast box on my first tranny rebuild.
Cheers.

pierre

sonett1
25th February 2008, 11:26 AM
While searching for a pinion and ring gear I was able to find a replacement pinion and ring gear and more importantly a steel pinion bearing housing http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saabtr2. But to my surprise I was offered a chillcast tranny housing. Yes:cheesy: So for $125 US, this is my Saturday haul... http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saabtr3 . I'll have to fab up a exhaust pipe bracket from some other location. http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saabtr4 ...Man these are some thick ribs and perhaps transverse to flex..... http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saabtr5 wait until you see the inside of the tranny these square side ribs are thick!!!! :cheesy: see what I mean http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saabtr6. Also look at where the transaxle area is so much beefier on the chillcast than the 88 case http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saabtr9. I'll begin to get the corrosion of this case and dismantle my 88 tranny and put the inards into the chillcast with metal pinion bearing. Funny how 1978-80 circa SAAB tranny stuff fits a 88. All I got to say is that this is a beefy tranny case. Get one.:cheesy: :cool: :cheesy:

pierre

Pierre, what part number is on the base of the chillcast case?
This may sound a little odd, but the pinion housing you intend to use is not as good as the aluminium housing, you really need to fit the special chillcast pinion housing if you want the best. This 'steel' housing you want to use is quite brittle.

idiot_saabvant
25th February 2008, 10:58 PM
Thanks for the input Sonett1. ]

I can understand how the steel bearing housing can fail even tho the strength of steel can be 3-4 times that of aluminum. Brittle steel can handle little shock load and torsional load.

The part number on the bottom of this case is 871239 ALUMASC 2. The companion aluminum pinion bearing pictured with my steel pinion bearing is 871230-3210. Perhaps this is the "special" chillcast bearing housing you mentioned as my ring/pinion gear set is off a C900-1981 which MAY have had this tranny housing. If not, then I'll ask my source if they have the associated pinion bearing housing to match the chill cast housing.

Thanks again for your input and letting my knowledge gain in regards to C900 trannies.

pierre

sonett1
26th February 2008, 12:11 PM
I think it would be more accurate to call that pinion housing cast iron and not cast steel.
The number for the chillcast pinion housing is 872073.
The strongest chillcast gearbox case is 870423, the next best is 871239.

idiot_saabvant
27th February 2008, 11:24 AM
I was able to work a tad on my tranny last night. No pictures as forgot camera, but removed the drivers, and ring gear and found that the pinion gear was trashed. Three of the teeth had sheared off. One tooth MAY of had a crack prior to this failure. Good news is that the failure happened only two blocks from my house and was able to coast most of the way which may have saved all my gear sets. I still have to take most of the tranny apart to get to the pinion shaft and associated bearings. But at least the tranny turns freely.

pierre

idiot_saabvant
28th February 2008, 02:32 PM
So was able to take a pciture last night of my pinion gear failure http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saabea3. Good news is that my pinion gear/shaft turns freely and that the housing is a compliment or more stronger (BESTEST english on the NET!!) 872073 to my chillcast box. (Did I mention I'm trading my 871239 box for the stronger 870423 box :p). I hope to have the tranny apart this weekend.

The major diiference between my 88 tranny case and the chillcast is seen here http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saabea2. Note no ribs on the bottom. I do have to figure out how to get a magnet on the tranny drain plug.

My plan is to remove the pinion shaft from this unit shown on the right http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saabtr2 (Broken bearings as shaft does not turn ..... matching ring gear above), put this gear/shaft into my stronger pinion bearing housing as shown in http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saabea3 and then put all the inards into my chillcast box. Sc*** it, I bought the chillcast so I could use it not look at it. Seems I can get several of the chillcast boxes locally. This shaft is from an 81, so then opposite end from what is pictured is not threaded as in my 88. It just takes a bushing and snap ring. I'll get the end threaded like my 88 to make for a more tighter fit or at least less play. I'll buy a press this weekend so I can press out/in bearings.

And my head painted pretty with foo-foo paint http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saabea4. Go Speed (SAAB) Racer go!

pierre

idiot_saabvant
29th February 2008, 01:23 PM
While the missus was having a girl's night out, I was able to bolt on my head. Getting the block off the floor http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saabec1, ready to set on the makeshift bench. I bought a "all inclusive" head gasket set. Was disappointed when I noticed the head gasket was NOT Erling. So I was comparing and noticed that my new head gasket had metal between the pistons http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saabec2. This might help limit gasket failures between 2/3 pistons. So I put it on and tightened the head bolts. That last 90 turn is a bugger http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saabec3 but I got her done. And finally a contrast between the indy red block paint and the candy apple red of my valve cover http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saabec5. I'll sand off the raised portions of the cover and paint them yellow or leave as polished aluminum.

Play hard this weekend Team!!

idiot_saabvant
2nd March 2008, 10:39 AM
Finally got around to pressure washing my engine bay. I was loathing to put the wheels back on, remove the frame/a-frame spring stopper thing. Then had a Guiness moment (brillant) and used the engine hoist to lift the car up http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saabtc1. There are 20 years of dirt and grime. We pushed the car out of the garage, put up tarps to capture the over spray and began http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saabtc2, and washed http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saabtc3. Then when it looked like all the dirt, grime and oil was removed....the moment of truth....How much rust and corrosion did I uncover?.... http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saabtc5 and http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saabtc6, http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saabtc7. WOW I was expecting more or at least some. Now I will weld some stiffner/gusset plates to the front motor mount and some other selected spots along the shock tower, primer the inside with black primer paint (to provide a contrast to my newly painted engine).

I do have some rust in the passenger side space where the wind shield washer fluid bottle is. I'll use POR15 for this repair.

I got my engine back together yesterday. The timing chain/cam shaft/sprocket installation seemed trickier than it should. I could get the cam shafts to rest in a certain spot that was a little off the timing marks. To get them to line up I had to put pressure/tension on the cam/lifters/valves to get the marks to line up. I'll pop the VC off my 89 and look for a comparision.

Now it is just a matter of getting my tranny apart and put together with all new bearings and perhaps shafts. I may have my car back on the road in April.

pierre

idiot_saabvant
12th March 2008, 10:27 AM
I got to get most of my tranny apart. Started with this big nut on the primary driver. Somebody been here before http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saabtk2 as evidenced by the dimpled washer/bolt. I had to use a dremel tool to drill out the dimples as I could not get the nut to come off otherwise. Locking 5th and reverse was easy http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saabtk3. The top gear snap ring can be a bugger to remove. getting the top sprocket off the mount takes some prying but it will come off as a unit http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saabtk4. One re-uses the primary nut to remove the primary driver as shown at the top of this picture. Just be careful to catch the shifting fork for 5th gear. Before I could remove the transfer case I had to remove this nut that has been re-used http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saabtk8, so out comes the dremel again and some patience http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saabtk9 and this nut comes off very easily (in 81, this nut was a shim and snap ring as evidenced on my 81 pinion shaft which will be machined to a threaded connection). After the transfer case is off, then the tranny comes apart pretty easy. Reverse gear is easy, main cluster, 5th gear, syncro http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saabtk11 note wear on layshaft. Two things stood out. I may have new syncros and no galling. http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saabtk13 . So basically this is what you get out of a 5 spd that is not attached to the pinioin gear shaft. http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saabtk16. I had two manuals to help with dissassembly. The 4.1 SAAB tranny manual and a Hayes manual. One can see why reverse gear was so easy to engage http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/saabtk7. So new syncros, gears look great. Just have to see how the pinion shaft/gear/housing is then can put all this stuff into my chillcast case. Plus it will take some time to press out all the bearings and source new.


pierre

idiot_saabvant
24th March 2008, 12:44 PM
I've been out working remote jobs so have not had much time on BAAbS. I had to do some major up keep on my 89 SPG this weekend. Major issue was, I had to replace a motor mount, O2 sensor and replace the 270 ohm resistor with a 570 ohm for the orange wire on my AMM.

She runs much better with the mount fixed, and most better with the higher resistance in the AMM circuit. No boost taper now, just hunting idle.

pierre

idiot_saabvant
29th March 2008, 11:13 PM
Been getting some stuff to finish my 88. http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/ab1 Got me a cutting torch and press. So a little detour in schedule and budget resulting in lack of progress.
Was able to begin to press out pinion bearings http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/ab2. What I like about this press is the gauge. I should be able to get close to preload of pinion bearing by applied pressure.

A spring pic, you can still find gobs of snow, daily 89 driver http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/ab3 taken today.

Cheers,

pierre

idiot_saabvant
30th March 2008, 07:27 PM
Finished my pinion bearing housing disassembly. Reverse gear and angle iron tool to assit in removing pinion bearing nut http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/ab4.

The three crush washer sfrom my disassembly. The middle one is from the 81, the left from the 4 spd and the right from my 88. Measured all and shall use the 81 as measures longest. Also note the extra "lip" on the edges. It looks like the 88 washer had been hammered along the "middle" ridge to make longer/flatter http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/ab5. The 81 pinion shaft versus the 88 is snap ring as opposed to threaded. I'll have to take my 81 pinion shaft to a machine shop to machine down and thread my 81 shaft per the 88 http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/sb7.

I had three chances to remove the inner most pinion bearing without cutting into the pinion shaft. It is very hard not to cut the shaft. Trick I found is to get as far as you can, put cut bearing/shaft on alum plate on concrete floor and take a steel chisel and hammer and "ping" the cut bearing housing just pops off http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/sb8.

cheers,

pierre

idiot_saabvant
3rd April 2008, 04:51 PM
I've been to several machine shops around town to machine my pinion shaft http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/sb7. No one will touch it for less than $250-$300US. Metal to hard or some such. So I'm searching for a trashed 900 that I can pull the tranny on. I've found two four speeds a 1970 99E and a 75 99. I know where a 84 900 square nose is (easy to get to) 5 spd, but not the state of transmission. Would presume the owner would say yes just to get rid of it. I also know where a 87 900 T16V is, but I know that tranny is broken. Any HOO I'll hope to have this issue solved this weekend.

I also have a field trip planned to my tranny source this weekend, perhaps I'll get lucky.

pierre

idiot_saabvant
4th April 2008, 12:00 PM
Found an 84 T8 with a 5 speed that am told was working when parked. Although the story is the HG blew. So I'll be able to poach the tranny, fuel pump, block, and non-cracked front glass, radiator and some other bits then waste to landfill. The rear hatch has spoiler and at one time had louvres as mounting hardware is present. Hope the ring and pinion are in good shape, else a four speed is looking pretty good.

pierre

Matthew
4th April 2008, 03:31 PM
Sounds way too good to be a parts car :cry:

idiot_saabvant
4th April 2008, 04:39 PM
Do I wish Matthew. The interior is stripped and the dash is almost gone. Parted or stolen. No, this is definitely a parts car. I'll have pics in a.m.

ps

unkleG'sif
5th April 2008, 08:48 AM
.....waste to landfill......

DO NOT SEND A CAR TO LANDFILL!!!!! :nono; :nono; :nono;

there are so many valuable materials on a car that can be salvaged either for parts, of by a recycler.... and dont even get me started on the Hazardous Substances that are present

landfills leach out any liquids to form one of the most toxic, poisonous pollutants. this is a mix of both the decomposing waste producing a liquid, and any liquids present in the waste itself.... just imagine what 4.5 liters of engine oil, 7 litres of coolant, 3 litres of gearbox oil and however much is in the PS system would do :evil: :evil:

DONT DO IT... as a Canadian, surely you would have responsible solutions available?

G

idiot_saabvant
7th April 2008, 10:09 AM
Thanks for your input drg23. I have no yard or place to store so to be responsible I'll put the remains in the landfill. At least the landfill in this area is somewhat controlled.

I rented a car trailer, and started to wrench up the car. No gear shifter, as parted out so had to "engineer" a clutch peddle depsressor. http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/sd1 I'm pretty sure I have e-code headlights as there is Hella written on them and a E in one corner. These sure are not like what I have on my 88 or 89. They look brand new. http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/sd2 The snow made it fun. It snowed almost a foot where I am keeping the car whilst dismantling.

PLans at this point are: front windshield, rear hatch door and glass, tranny, and front dash (no cracks), fuel pump, IC piping and front grill/headlights. Car has last tags of 92 so may have been sitting awhile.

pierre

IronJoe
7th April 2008, 10:22 AM
Yes those are the pre-facelift e-codes. Nice!

idiot_saabvant
11th April 2008, 10:47 AM
I did not show up to work today because I have an "Eye" problem. "Eye" just can't see going to work. So I loaded up the truck with some tools so I can dismantle the T8 84 http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/sf1 and http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/sf2. I got a tarp and containers so I can remove the fluids for proper disposal. At least with the snow I'll not need a cooler for the beer:cheesy: .

I have made some progress on my 88. Got the springs off. First time doing that is fun. Glad I had my press nearby cause I needed that in the end to remove the compression tool.

pierre

idiot_saabvant
12th April 2008, 11:18 AM
Got alot of work done on the T8 84. Got stymied when I could not take the wheels off. No hammer and friends were gone. I did not break one thing when dismantling. A T8 is WAY different than a T16.

Returned the 81 ring and pinion to SAAB Hollow. At least these parts are returned to the "pile". Was able to get a free rear louver with top mounting, my 84 has the bottom mounts. Put dibs on SPG side vents, and a down payment on a SAAB wood steering wheel. Also if this tranny does not work, then can source one from the hollow.

BUT>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

I was shown a prototype of a 83 SAAB NA running on hydrogen. Very crude but they get 40+ miles mpg. Now I have an excuse to get MS. I'm practicing something like this: "Dear, if we got MS for our hydrogen project, then we could increase our mileage by xx amount. Is'nt that just a wonderful idea? Plus you would not have to turn a knob or some such.":cool:

Anyway off to finish engine/tranny removal.....oh I get to drop off the remains at SAAB Hollow so do not have to pay a waste fee. YES!!

pierre

idiot_saabvant
13th April 2008, 10:59 AM
Got her out and hauled home. No major issue other than I cut the clutch fluid line http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/sw1, http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/sw2 and loaded. http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/sw3 Today is pressure wash engine, remove tranny from block. Should be fun as no snow and sunny.

pierre

idiot_saabvant
16th April 2008, 06:32 PM
I have done much to my 84 engine tranny deal, since Sunday. First, last night I took the 84 from my friends house to SAAB Hollow. So got that taken care of and off my chest. As when I have moved the car the first time it was snowing and raining, but easier to wrench onto the trailer w/o engine.

I was able to poach the front lights, all rear lights, ignition amp module, all ic piping (it is 4mm larger id), radiator, inner drivers (but shall check to make sure they are not the small ones), interior switches including several blanks (score), fuel pump and rubber thingy for the final seal, and the mud flaps.

On Sunday, the missus went to work so I was able to back the truck with 84 engine/tranny into my SAAB lair:cool:. Some frown on my truck and mechanic work in the condo garage (SAAB lair) but I just turn on some country or classical and they go away(rap works best). Pic of my new rear louver http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/sww3 This is in good shape although the pic sucks. I've decided to just remove the guts from the tranny connected to the block http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/sww1 . This 84 tranny case seems to be really fragile, not even as beefy as my 88. I'll poach the turbo oil return line as it is a flexible hose and the connection to the turbo is slotted, not a hole like my 88. I'll also get the oil pressure sender http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/sww2 This engine is coming apart alot easier than any work on my 89. The 89 was in a rusty environment, the 84 has been frozen for half its life with little ambient humidity. I hope the 1/4 syncros are in good shape as I'll take them from the 84 and replace the 2/3 syncros from my 88. I'll also posch the exhaust manifold spacers, as many bolts as I can glean and scrap metal the rest. Perhaps I can get enough funds for some beer.

Goal is to have the tranny pieces by the weekend.

pierre

idiot_saabvant
18th April 2008, 10:14 AM
Got some work done, I was only able to remove the inner drivers. The preload on them was significant as I had to loosen the bolts at the same time to prevent binding. So drivers, ring gear and low and behold, I have a chillcast pinion bearing housing. Yes! Also rear gear looks almost brand new. And there was no metal bits attached to the magnet. Just a slimey goo. Backlash measurement was only 0.005. Kind of tight. Tonight I should have the remainder removed.

I finally got my pinion bearings from the stealership (only took three weeks and they lost my order), four of the remaining six are here in AK. And they suck! SGK or SFK manufactured in Mexico. Seem to have more play than what I've taken out. I know Sonett1 has talked about grades of bearings and that for these trannies a moderate or lower grade/tightness of bearing is adequate. I'll go to a bearing shop and see if I can get Timken.

Cheers and play hard this weekend.
pierre

idiot_saabvant
21st April 2008, 03:13 PM
Well you get what you asked for and I got mine.:evil: The 84 tranny dis-assembly was going uber smooth until I said how smooth it was going then http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/swx3. The outer most bushing got froze onto the pinion shaft. I must have hit the pinion shaft just right and she stuck. Tried using my hydraulic press to press out the shaft whilst in the tranny and ended up bending a 3/8th inch thick steel plate on my press. I tried pounding it out with a 4lb hammer and brass rod. Ended up putting 1/8th inch divets in the brass rod. So out came the dremmel, the steel chisel and cutting torch (Torch it Pierre torch it!.....flame solves all problems) :nono; NOT!!! Anyway that :evil::evil::evil: is off and not a whole bunch of damage to the shaft. And all my gears and syncros work and turn easliy:o.

Not all chillcast pinion bearing housings are equal. Same part number stamped on these two. The bottom is from the 84 and the top from my 88. The 88 has more alum, weighs more and has the ribs http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/swx4. The ribbed one is going into my rebuild. I hope I can say "Ribbed for her pleasure:cheesy:" Once I get BAAbS on the road.

Also not all transfer cases are equal http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/swx6. The one on the left is my 88, the other my 84. The 84 has more "webbing" on the inside, has a stronger looking bearing holder and an oil passage through the wall where the guide pin is. The 84 is also heavier. Not that heavier means stronger.

pierre

idiot_saabvant
22nd April 2008, 03:15 PM
Spent last night pressing bearings, but first I had to remove the pinion nut http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/sxw1, then I had to find bits and parts in the "room" I am allowed http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/sxw2 , http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/sxw3, and http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/sxw4. Found what I needed to make a press tool for the pinion bearing journals http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/sxw5 and then fitment http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/sxw6 and finally pressing http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/sxw7. I went to the local bearing shop and got these bearings new and additional TIMKEN bearings for the pinion. Now I have three sets of bearings, shafts and housings. I'm gonna practice setting the preload using my used bearings, die cast housing, and a used crush washer pounded back to proper length. The crush washer I got out of my 84 tranny is the ribbed type I got out of my 81. But on this one you can see if was definitly crushed and measured only 0.73 inches not 0.74 like the others.

More pressing tonight or might fab up a pinion gear depth gauge tool.

drink beer, its part of Earth's water cycle.

ps

idiot_saabvant
23rd April 2008, 05:23 PM
I learned several things last night in working on my tranny rebuild. First you do not necessarily need to cut all the way through the bearing races, like this one http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/sb8. You just have to cut through it enough to give it a very good whack with a chisel and hammer to loosen it up and then you can just push it off. Might take some trial and (No) error but it is pretty easy.

Setting the pinion bearing pre-load took several iterations. I started by pressing some used bearings into my die-cast pinion bearing housing. My press has a gauge so pressed to 1 ton. I could hear the crush washer was loose "inside" so pressed more to 1.5 tons. Now I could feel some resistance in the press. The shaft still turned freely, but pre-load was 5 lbs to much. So I un-pressed, hammered the crush washer back to 0.745 inches, re-pressed to 1 ton and then used the nut to set the pre-load. Well my 24 inch crescent wrench is pretty crude to get a feel for tightness, but I got close within 2 lbs. pre-load setting. But when I unpressed this test, I found that the crush washer was not crushed, so put back together, re-pressed but took time from 1 ton to 1.5 ton. I tried to "feel" as best I could. Got back to 3-4 lbs over desired pre-load.. I'll stick with this. When I set my new bearings on the pinion shaft I will be using my chillcast pinion bearing housing and new bearings and journals.

pierre

idiot_saabvant
24th April 2008, 11:38 AM
Took my third iteration test pinion bearing shaft/housing and put it in my chillcast without shims to test measure depth with recently bought depth gauge http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/sxz1. Not as hard as it looks and I'll use this same tool to measure the pinion nut depth. I measured both sides of the pinion gear and came up with http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/sxz2 15.58/15.60 mm. My pinion gear reads +4 or 15.04mm so I need to shim by 0.54mm or a little more by the time I tighten the nuts up. And when I tapped in the housing into the case, the preload loosened up! Hmmmmmmm.

This is the bearing from inside the top sprocket http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/sxz4. It was very dirty and I am glad I took it out. It had steel/brass sludge inside the bearing. Do not get excited when you see a 7 or 8 stamped on these gears as is the 8 on the lower sprocket. I have no idea what these mean other than these are not type 8 primaries.:cry:

This http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/sxz5 is what I mean by not cutting all the way through a bearing race to remove.

pierre

Boosted
24th April 2008, 10:34 PM
Pierre,

More pics of your homemade pinion depth tool please. As for the pre-load I turned the pinion nut to adjust the pre-load. Had a digitial fish scale to measure it. I got mine to 11 ft lbs and decided to stop.

idiot_saabvant
25th April 2008, 01:13 PM
Spent last night pressing new bearings into their respective housings/journals. First had to remove the journals from the input shaft housing. Easier than the pinion housing journals. There is an oil hole so pressing out is easy. Also this hole helps in determining the amount of shims required for proper fitment. SAAB 4.1 Tranny Service manual states that 3 tons of pressure required when pressing and one must turn the housing at least 40 times. http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/szx1 so away I press, and I turned each way 60 times http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/szx2 I used a ECU cover as base to not damage the gears. Softer metal than gear metal. In the end I pressed to 4 ton. These bearings are TIMKEN M84548 and only one choice of journal TIMKEN M84510.

Difference in primary housing bearings. http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/szx3. Bearing same as ejenner's 4 spd SKF 6208/2Z JEM. I have yet to get my needle bearing but they are universal BH2212.

I also pressed in my pinion bearings into my 84 chillcast housing. No pics, but pressed to 4 ton, while turning and then tightened nut to get a preload of 16-17 lbs. Used a NSF clear EP grease for a lube. I knew I was close as I had passed the original point where the nut was peened onto the pinion shaft. These bearings are TIMKEN M88048. I forgot to write down the associated journal number.

Boosted:

No special tools for depth gauge. I found this antique German made vernier depth gauge on that bay space. These are the tools I have assembled for tranny measurements http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/szx4. I have a digital set of calipers, two types of dial indicators, a flexible metal/magnetic holder for backlash and vernier. I used a steel ruler as one might find on a carpenters ruler, laid flat against a steel surface, then put the vernier on same surface, and clamped down as http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/sxz2. On my chillcast there, there is a bolt hole for the drivers that lines up with a rib that is orthogonal/parallel to the pinion shaft. Makes easy measurements. Per Sonett1 I measured both sides, spun pinion shaft and measured again. Took average of four measurements.

pierre

idiot_saabvant
26th April 2008, 10:38 AM
Had big plans for work. Even took off afternoon. Not!! Had freak snow storm that dumped 1.5 feet at my house in town. Friends say 2-3 feet in the hills. Just when the grass was turning green.

ps

idiot_saabvant
27th April 2008, 10:36 AM
Did not think it snowed this Friday? Well this snow was just to get two blocks from major street to condo driveway http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/sxx1. I painted with cheesy paint, the case, primary case http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/sxx2 and covers http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/sxx4. Then spent 2-3 hours trying to get the pinion shaft depth set correctly. One measures, then turns then measures, then take out the shaft, re-shim and then measure again. Repeat until you tire. So I THINK I got it to +4 http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/sxx5 . I'll measure again this morning. Also the pinion nut depth, a 195mm measurement is best done by setting my gauge to 189.76mm then measure with a feeler gauge between the nut and tool. Then measure shim thickness. I'll try and get a pic today.

Got the last in USA SPG front springs, but seems I lost the upper A-arm bushings I got over a year ago, so emergency order 'cause I'll have the upper a-arms out, strengthened, painted, undercoated and re-installed. Boy I'm getting close and it is VERY hard NOT TO RUSH!!>

pierre

ejenner
27th April 2008, 11:55 AM
why strengthen the a-arms? Don't you want the a-arms to take the damage if you spin the car into a kerb? Easier to change an a-arm than a bodyshell. :lol:

Must say, your transmission rebuild sounds a lot more professional than mine. I'm doing it by touch and feel rather than accurate measurement. Wish me luck!

idiot_saabvant
28th April 2008, 12:56 PM
I had an epiphany Saturday night, some dream about saving the world, virgins and all. Don't I wish, instead it was a dull idea for pinion gear depth http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/svv1. Using a dial indicator is easier than the vernier depth gauge. http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/svv2. I was able to do better at the depth with this technique. Only took two more iterations (two hours) to get measurements within 0.003 of an inch.

The pinion nut depth is still easiest to measure with my vernier depth gauge http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/svv3 . Just set to 189.96mm place flat against case then shim until measurement is tight.

Differential bearings and associated journals on the driver housings http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/svv5. Just don't forget to re-insert the oil stop thingy on the pass side driver housing. Note plastic wheel for speedo cable is different 84 vs 88. Another "special" tool required to remove the journals from the driver housings http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/svv4. Bearing is TIMKEN M84548 associated journal is M84510. This is the most common bearing I've found during this re-build. Needle and top sprocket are hardest.

The shift shaft seal was buggered up, couldn't remove so resorted to this technique http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/svv6. Boy I love fluxcore MIG wire http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/svv8 splatter me timbers!!! I'll have to remember to tap out the threads.

Overall I'm having fun re-building my tranny, even though I've spent 4-5 hours setting pinion gear depth. The next hurdle is the difference in shaft lengths between self centering and non. If considering a tranny re-build have a press handy.

pierre

idiot_saabvant
29th April 2008, 01:22 PM
My current delimina is my shift shafts and associated shift mechanisms. http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/sdd2 Top is from my 88, bottom is from the 84. So I would presume that one is self centering and the other is not. Also the layshafts are different in lengths by about 2cm, perhaps more. I'll need to fit each into my tranny housing to see what is best. At least all the gears and syncros are the same. I'll revisit the Service training manual to educate myself in this regard.

Difference in syncros as good/better vs not http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/sdd3 top is better, the shine in the unfocused bottom is the wear very evident if picture was in focus.

Wear on dog gear 152k from my 84. http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/sdd1 Top is fifth gear from 84.

pierre

idiot_saabvant
30th April 2008, 12:08 PM
Had a few moments last night to examine my gears sets and to determine if my shift selector shaft would fit my tranny case. http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/sff4 . Well it fits this way and looks okay from this perspective http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/sff5. Now I just need to add the gears sets.

Here are my two sets of gears http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/sff1. I'll need to redo my input shaft as there is a difference between 84 and 88 http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/sff8. Note the extension from the thread part and its companion bearing housing in the front cover. So unpress 84 input shaft, waste bottom bearing else cut it off or leave for future, and re-build the 88. At least I got two sets of all bearings when I purchased my lot, plus do not have to build special tools.

I'll end up putting most of the 84 parts into the tranny rebuild. Note wear on selectors [/url][url]http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/sff7 (http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/sff8). 88 on right. Wear is 1mm over 84. And http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/sff6 88 is on left.

On this gear set galling is very evident. http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/sff2 The right gear is the 88. Note the sheen on the top of the tooth, where as the 84 on the left is dull and not shiney.

Tonight is with missus so perhaps no progress.

pierre

ejenner
1st May 2008, 04:25 AM
I like the way the 4-speed is a more simple gearbox. Less to go wrong and easier to rebuild.

The way you are measuring the pinion depth is the correct way to do it. With the dial gauge.

idiot_saabvant
6th May 2008, 03:17 PM
Spent Sunday and last night re-building my synchros. Ended up using all but one 88 synchro because of evidence of little wear http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/sgg1, Note how teeth are dull and not shiny, plus angle is even as opposed to my 84 http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/sgg2. Also the marks on the inside edge are the same.

Putting the synchros and gears back together is easy and can be done with your hands and fingers http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/sgg3 to re-insert the snap ring. takes practice but can be done. Just remember to set the wire to 11 teeth apart.

I vasilated between the laygears. I wanted to re-use the 84, but on close inspection I noticed that there were imperfections in the metal as shown here. http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/sgg4. The right gear is my 84 note how the top of the gear is not shiny and marbled. You can see this imperfection on the gear itself. The 88 on the left was my choice.

My final work on gears. I have 84 and 88 and in no particular order. http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/sgg5. Also note on the far right the fifth gear with the funky bearings I'm keeping this wrapped up because trying to put back together all the needle bearing without a journal is a pain in the butt.

I also pressed out my upper a-arm bushings. Easy to get out, we'll see how easy to get new back in. If you guys have some tricks chime in.

pierre

idiot_saabvant
8th May 2008, 12:10 PM
I was concerned with my tranny rebuild and needed some hand holding. So I took my rebuild to SAAB Hollow to get a second opinion from an expert. Good news is that the pinion nut depth was correct, I had the correct pre-load on the pinion shaft, I had the shifter positioned correctly but my choice of primary housing was incorrect http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/swx6. I chose the 84 because of the stronger bearing bracket (as shown on the top right). But I require the 88 because of the centering pin as opposed to the oil tube thingy. So I get to press out bearings, clean and paint the 88. Glad I found this out before I tried to put back together. I was also chastized for not using all synchros from 2/3 or 1/4 I forget. The all brass ones with no coating.

I was able to pick up a set of 7 primaries, and the retro reverse gear cover of the original chillcast tranny housing. This thing is a monster and I'll post pics in the morrow. More ribs for "her" pleasure.

I was also shown the 4 spd primaries that are similar in ratio as a 5spd No. 8 primiares. There are several of these that SAAB Hollow has, if one is interested. I was told these are rare.

I also reversed the layshaft and cut a new slot for the locking collar. I'll need to weld and regrind as I was a little off in my fab work.
Pic in the morrow.

As a final note SAAB (sob) on Xassh.

pierre

idiot_saabvant
9th May 2008, 11:49 AM
I was able to swap bearings from my 84 primary case to my 88. Easy, no problems, even cleaned and painted with my cheesy alum high temp paint. That is done.

An unfocused pic of my layshafts. Top is from the 88 and bottom from the 84. Note wear on top shaft. I'll need to weld a small rod to my cut and re-grind so I have enough depth for the stop to bite into http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/shh1.

Pressed in my upper a-arm rubber bushings. Getting in is easier than out http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/shh2. You just need a little lubrication on the rubber and seat, then the bushing just presses in without hardly any force.

Back side of my chillcast reverse gear cover http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/shh3. I like the ribs for cooling and strength. The front side compared to my 88 steel cover. More ribs, better cooling and strength http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/shh4.

I have all my components to put back my tranny. So close it up this weekend, and attach to block.

pierre

idiot_saabvant
10th May 2008, 10:47 AM
Made significant progress yesterday on my tranny. I re-welded the layshaft http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/svc2 , yes I did grind out that hole and reweld and grind back to form as shown. She fit just fine http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/svc1 .

I was going to use the 88 lay gears because of previous statements, but on closer inspection I saw this http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/svc3 . So based on the layshaft wear from this layshaft gear, and the wear on the associated needle bearing I went back to the 84. I've been told you always replace this bearing regardless of age or use up to 20k miles. One can tell when the tranny fits right. http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/svc4. I almost got it together last night, but time snuck up on me http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/svc5 so I'll finish today after I remove the sealant and replace with fresh.

I've got many hours in time to get to this point in my tranny re-build. Perhaps 100 hours, when you count the hunting, finding the 84, the dismantleing, the taking apart the 84 tranny, the measuring, the pressing out bearings and trying to find new, cleaning and painting, all the work on the 88 tranny, the back and forth from garage to SAAB lair. I still have a way to go, attach to block, get linkage connected, JB weld a engine oil spigit and then try it out. Would I do it again, yes. Did I learn something yes. This is pretty easy to do, rebuild a tranny. One must have several so you can mix and match as new parts are almost impossible to find here in USA, lots of patience LOTS and a place like SAAB Hollow so you can get a visual and hands on opinion. Of which I am fortunate to have.

pierre

allessence
10th May 2008, 01:03 PM
you do realize the surfaces of both the cluster gears and the layshaft are surface hardened and machined absolutely smooth? And the little nipple on the end which was broken keeps the layshaft from turning in the bore?

Just buy a new lay shaft. there like 130.00 or something. You can buy them from the SAAB dealer or even EEuroparts.

Good luck with it.

idiot_saabvant
12th May 2008, 10:07 AM
I spent most if not all of yesterday finalizing my tranny re-build. First I had to remove the transfer case as the instructions in both the Hayes and SAAB manuals are a little vauge. One must set the input shaft with all the other componants inside the transfer case first at the same time. So I had to loosen the case, remove all the set anarobic sealer, replace sealer and bolt up. There is a snap ring on the layshaft gear that takes a 90 angle that can be a bugger to remove. Got that finished and the gears still turn. Set and tightened all the nuts that must be peened, put on my new number 7 primaries, reverse gear linkage (boy that will be a tight gear), still turns.

Then I started on the ring gear/differential. I remember trying to remove that gear and it took several attempts, if not more than ten minutes, but when I put it in, it took the first try and it set just right. Oh no now what bad is going to happen? To easy first try makes me jittery. I gather up the inner drivers, set per SAAB, remove and apply shims, tighten and the ring gear does not turn. Too much preload and the new bearing/journals have not set correctly. I did this five times to get the preload set and get ready for the backlash measurements. As per Ejenner, one can "feel" when the tranny is rebuilt correctly. My backlash was 0.003-0.004 inches. At this setting the ring gear barely moves, and if you use the inner driver, there is a very slight and I mean very slight pause before movement is made. One can turn the ring gear, but it is stiff and takes some if not more effort. No weird noises, and the gears turn freely with no snags or friction spots. And finally the most fun part, BOLTING up the covers. I got all four covers bolted up, including my new steel differential cover

Yes, to be honest I feel pretty good. A daunting task, but one easily preformed and completed, providing one has the SAAB manuals and if lucky, a person of experience. Will my tranny last? Most likely, because I built it. How long, Whom knows? But I have the knowledge, tools and hydraulic press. I'll need at least two more re-builds to get really good at it.

Maybe I can get my car running before the weekend:p

See yaaaaaaaaa.

pierre

philb
12th May 2008, 11:52 AM
Great stuff! I feel now after reading your thread and ejenners that I might be able to attempt this some day. Thing to do would be swap in the spare tranny I have with perfect syncros and then change the syncros on my own.

idiot_saabvant
12th May 2008, 09:02 PM
I took my re-built tranny to my friends garage this morning so I could finish my 88 SAAB. http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/sbv2 my chillcast case, 84/88 internals, chillcast reverse gear cover and SAAB Ralley's steel differential cover (thanks Luke) and from the rear http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/sbv3. I did mostly prep on the engine well and finished replacing springs, with all new rubber bushings http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/sbv1 A SPG sport spring in the front and the original 88 in the rear. AS stated repeatedly, the SPG sport springs just fit without hardly any tension on the upper a-arm. So if you fit it wrong like I did the first time, you just turn the spring and it fits:D . I also finished primering the engine well, using POR15 epoxy putty to fit in some non-structural rust holes on my inner fender passenger side and paint POR15 on same spot. I will be ready to put together my engine and tranny tomorow and perhaps fit into engine well. Oh it is so hard to NOT hurry.:roll: :nono;

Thanks philb! A tranny is easy because it only "fits" one way (with proper measurements). MS has many options and variables so much more time consuming and head scratching.

pierre

Pap
12th May 2008, 09:38 PM
nice work!! I wish I was able to do all that ;oops:

idiot_saabvant
15th May 2008, 10:06 AM
I mounted the tranny on Tues. Doing it by yourself is tedious and time consuming. Bolting on the oil pick up tube, making sure it does not bend/break, aligning the bolt holes, finding all the proper bolts http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/sqw6 and http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/sqw5 . I added more stuff. So on Wed all I had to do was bolt on exhaust manifold and oil dip stick tube, and then drop the engine. HA HA HA I spent most of the day just trying to fab up the oil tube http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/sqw4 I did screw it in, but Marinetexed it anyway and final fitment http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/sqw3. I put new marks on the dip stick for new levels. I wanted to put in a pre-turbo egt and did not want to weld, also had to go to post to pick up my egt (more delay). Was told the bit was a metric thread, which I have. NOT. So drive back into town, and find a NPT 1/8 x27 tap, special drill bit (R version), drill and tap. This only took 3 hours as I got frustrated and hurreid and broke bits, my patience, my ego and finally http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/sqw2 she fits http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/sqw1 and does not stick to far into the bore.

So today all I have to do is mount turbo, alternator and ps pump, then I can drop it in the engine well. That is my mission drop.....no...PLACE engine in engine well.

pierre

Saabstudent
15th May 2008, 12:49 PM
I was also shown the 4 spd primaries that are similar in ratio as a 5spd No. 8 primiares. There are several of these that SAAB Hollow has, if one is interested. I was told these are rare.
pierre

Pierre - do you have nay more info on these primaries?
Are you saying they are for a 4 speed box but have long ratios similar to the 5 speed type 8's. i.e. approx 155+ mph top speed?

G

idiot_saabvant
16th May 2008, 10:27 AM
Saabstudent - yes that is what I am told, pm if you require a phone #.

Finished putting all the xtra stuff on my block before I placed it in the engine well. A lot easier on the bench than in the well. I did not have any extra help, so put the engine in myself. I only had to undo one thing, the alternator tensioner so it could fit past the brake fluid reservoir. Next time I'll ask for help as I was very surprised I did not break something. I only dropped the engine once when I turned to fast the ram lift and it landed on the passenger side inner driver. To bad no one was there as they would has seen my heart jump out of my chest!! I got three new hard non-hydraulic engine mounts, I should have a very stiff feel to engine which I hope limits engine flex which I hope leads to less tranny flex.

So today, connect remaining hoses, fill with fliuds, bleed clutch, connect bumper, new charged battery and hope the key stil works and....................

ps

Matthew
16th May 2008, 11:02 AM
Have you had the primary gear case and some of the gearbox side panels anodised?

That engine looks rather nice :D

ejenner
17th May 2008, 05:11 AM
The solid rubber engine mounts do still flex a bit. You can get the engine bouncing with incorrect throttle application. But they are good enough. There was a bit of a craze for 'solid front engine mounts' a few years ago. Gary Moore used to sell them from his little website. They had some rubber in them but basically they were solid. A totally solid front mount sends a lot of vibration through the shell and you feel a lot of gearbox vibration and noise as well. Better to have some rubber rather than no rubber.

I always join the engine and gearbox by myself and I always take the engine in and out of the bay by myself as well... no choice really, most people find car work tedious and boring and wouldn't spend two seconds helping out if they could avoid it.


Have you had the primary gear case and some of the gearbox side panels anodised?

There's a clue in the photo Matthew! :lol:

ejenner
17th May 2008, 05:18 AM
Anyone remember this thread regarding primaries in a 4-speed: http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=123947

I decided to go for type-7 in the end. It should be the right balance of acceleration and cruising ability for my 99. I do drive to the track and I take it on holiday as well. So some cruising ability is needed. I also think high performance turbo engines go better with longer ratios. If the ratios are too short then you get too much wheelspin and if the top speed is only 110mph then you'll max it out on some circuits as well.

Matthew
17th May 2008, 06:30 AM
There's a clue in the photo Matthew! :lol:
So there is! :lol:

idiot_saabvant
17th May 2008, 10:50 AM
Matthew - No not anodized, just cheap rattle can two part paint.

ejenner - I understand about no one wanting to help. I'll be better, quicker and more organized next time. It would help if I had my own space then I could set it up the way I want and make this entire process easier.

.................................................. ......:evil: :evil: :evil: :evil:

I had my engine set up for what I thought would be an easy Friday. Got over to my friends house before he went to work so he could help me finalize the bleeding of the clutch. All he had to do was depress the clutch pedal, whilst I bleed. I hear the pedal being depressed, no action on the clutch,..."hey you pushing the pedal down?"...."YEP".....then I hear a tink, another tink and my brake pistons have popped out of the caliper. Those are almost impossible to put back in without the proper tool. I'm miffed, one does not know the difference between a clutch pedal and the brake?!?!?! ( I should have saved that thought). Well the SAAB god was on my side (at least in the morning) as I was able to source re-built Elring calipers. Well that was only a three hour delay as I drive back into town, get calipers, trade in core, drive back to the garage, rebuild the brakes, and try to put them on. Then I realize that in putting on the new coil springs, I've removed the insert between frame and upper a-arm, so must compress the coil spring, else I can not fit the brake assembly onto the upper a-arm. I've been through this exercise before so not to hard, but set-up to compress a-arm takes time. Long story short, get all the front end work done, new brakes, connect the drivers. Work my way from firewall towards front of engine connecting wires, hoses and stuff. Bleed the brakes, and am ready (again) to bleed the clutch. The master cylinder is dry, so I panic as the seals may be spent. I pressurize the system, get brake fluid everywhere, and repeat for a long time....say two hours or more as I try a vacuum pump, pressurize the system.....cuss, lots of that, more brake fluid over me, my lips, face, ego, floor...I'm more than p******, wishing I had held onto my miffed thought but I persevere and get a firm clutch pedal. It is only 8:30pm and I've been at it for 12 hours.

So here I am today http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/sff2_001 and http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/album571/sff3. All I have to do is put radiator in, bumper and fill with coolant and hope she starts.

Oh that little shift shaft pin that is conical in shape is a bugger to put in when the ps pump is installed. I did not want to damage the threads so took my time. At least I can find all my gears.

I'm off to finish BAAbS today before I leave for four months on a remote work assignment, which shall take me to the remote wilds of Alaska.

pierre

idiot_saabvant
18th May 2008, 11:23 AM
Yes :cheesy: :cheesy: :cheesy:

Got her buttoned up and on the road. One hose clamp that was just not in the right spot, and had to turn the dizzy once. She started on the second try after adjusted the timing. Lifters noisy at first.

May I say 65 at 6500 in second. Well not quite, but I can get to 60 more or less. Since the engine started right up, and the tranny had no issues, I took BAAbS on the road. I put on over 300 miles last night driving around. My mantra is break an engine in like you'll drive it so I did. I did not take it above 4000 rpm until I had put 200 miles on. I have made no adjustments other than the initial timing adjustment. I had my stock APC and limited boost to 12 psi. I'll switch to a trim 55 or 50 when I get back from summer work. One does not need a short shifter when you have a "new" tranny. Boy that tranny is tight and shifts are smooth. Yep ribbed for her pleasure:cool:

I have two leaks I'll require to fix. A tranny leak where I thought I could use anearobic sealer/gasket combo and my Marinetexed oil fill tube. These are easy fixes.

A curious note is that my A/R's are steady, no fluxuations as prior to rebuild and thus knock is lessened. This engine is smooth and no hesitation, I can get to 6000 rpm with ease. The lightened flywheel spools the engine faster but statring from a stop, the clutch takes some feathering. What I have learned is that one MUST have a tight, well maintained engine before you begin to add mod's. My head work paid off.

You guys have a great summer and I'll catch up to this forum in August.

pierre

Squaab99t
18th May 2008, 01:14 PM
Nice job:D a lot of hard work pays off. Looks like you learned a few things along the way, which is a major bonus.

idiot_saabvant
13th June 2008, 11:32 AM
I had to come back into town for family reasons, so had a chance to do a little driving.

First I had to replace the front and rear crank seals. This is due to I broke in the engine with pure synthetic oil (Royal Purple) and not good 'ol dino and I over filled. But the Royal Purple in my tranny is working wonders. Now I'm not spewing oil everywhere.

One does not realize how fast this car is because the power comes on so smooth. All the head work really paid off. I adjusted the timing after 600 miles and that really helped. My JSP stage I fuel chip is performing very good now that I got the AMM dialed in. I'm running a G9 APC, max boost of 21 psi. I've been able to surprise Audi 4.2l A4's, STI's and Evo's. I can hold my own on the smaller 3.0l and below, but the torque of the V8's gets me off the line. So based on this I'm pretty sure I'm pushing 200-225hp at the wheels. I can't wait until the rings set and I might get another 5hp or so.

Its fun to have a sleeper SAAB.

I just need to rebuild the rear suspension now that the front end , tranny and engine are finished.

pierre

allessence
13th June 2008, 05:23 PM
What are you running in the tranny for Royal purple?

idiot_saabvant
16th June 2008, 04:50 PM
Allessence... I got a good deal on two gallons of Royal Purple so decided to try that in the tranny. I'm hoping it has great cold weather behavior. The only reason for its use in my tranny.

I installed my short shifter this weekend. WOW that really makes a C900 transmission short :cheesy:. Just like a real tranny...haha. No it is nice, very nice. My 89 already came with the twisty leaver so no big deal there, in fact it is not because this tranny is tight so far so does not twist easily.

I had my wife drive this car after she purchased an Audi A4 1.8T just hours prior. She is following me in the 88, I'm driving the 89 to storage for the summer. We are going up a steep grade (12%) and I look in the rear mirror and see smoke billowing out from underneath my 88 :o Hmmmm I think, as I turn into the storage lot. I secure the car and walk back to the 88. The missus is still in the front seat....odd.....I ask about the smoke coming up the hill and her reply "I down shifted to second and the turbo kicked in and surprised me, I only smoked the tires in second and third though" I'm thinking :cool: and then she says (It being fathers day and all) "WOW that has more power and handles like my 2004 A4." And I'm thinking of all those times a box showed up on the door step and the LOOK I got...Another SAAB part. But she had fun driving back home and now she understands my time, money and effort in this project car.

Finish up gages this week.

ps

allessence
16th June 2008, 06:55 PM
Which Royal purple, Syncromax. Maxgear, Motor oil, etc????

idiot_saabvant
19th June 2008, 11:36 AM
I'm using their 10w-30 syn motor oil with a quart of their synchromesh.

ps

sonett1
19th June 2008, 02:56 PM
Royal Purple does not appear to be rated very highly in these tests, http://www.syntheticwarehouse.com/drivetrain_lubes.htm Click on 'gear oil white paper' interesting reading.

allessence
19th June 2008, 05:41 PM
I've done some oil testing in the transmissions.

I've used their maxgear 75w-90, 10w-30 motor oil,

BG syncroshift II

Mobil 1

convential 75w-90

ETC.


royal purple has a very slippery Maxgear and it really clung to every surface and seemed to quite gear noise.

Their 10w-30 was recommended by one of there tech guys and he suggested for even better protection using their racing product.

This using the 10w-30 seemed better than convential oil by a little.
Smoother shifts, better cold starts etc.

I am currently using BG syncro shift and it definetly makes the gear shift smoother but also makes the LSD grip tighter on sharp turns. And isn't as good at cusioning gears. (more gear noise).

I will be buying a 5Gallon pail of Redline Heavyweight shockproof next. Maybe next month or so.

The Royal purple Maxgear seemed to really limit gear noise but shifting was more difficult until it warmed up.

Syncromax wasn't recommended at all and is supposed to be for Automatic trans cars.

IronJoe
19th June 2008, 05:47 PM
I use Redline MTL in both c900's. It has served me well for years.


EDIT: Haven't blown a trans since 2005! Wow!

allessence
19th June 2008, 06:37 PM
Not to brag since it's totally anti productive, but I blew 3 in 3 months.

2 with 4th gear teeth completely stipped, and one with a chain drive chain failure.

one with Max gear75w-90, one with convential 10-30 and one with Hypoid 75w-90

idiot_saabvant
19th June 2008, 07:24 PM
I'm hoping for good cold weather performance. I'm using Syncromesh which states specifically for manual transmissions but only 1:3 ratio compared to the 10w-30. I'm getting better performance with this combo than I have had with the Honda MTF, Lucas Synthetic gear oil. After readings Sonett's reference I now wonder if I want Royal Purple for winter driving.

I looked at my oil at 1000 miles as I drained the tranny to look at colour of fluid and amount of wear that might be visible in the fluild, like a steel grey colour and there is none.

Easy to spot which fluid is causing drips with royal purple vs conventional oil vs anti-freez and ps fluid.

ps

sonett1
20th June 2008, 02:42 PM
Jorgen Eriksson recommends this stuff...Quaker State 2105, it should be easy for guys to find over in the US?

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r310/sonett_01/IMG_1118.jpg

allessence
20th June 2008, 09:13 PM
When I had spoke with the Royal Purple tech support guy he said to stay away from the syncromax.

He said shear stabliity is much better with their regular motor oils or maxgear.

idiot_saabvant
22nd June 2008, 11:54 AM
Well Allessence and Sonett are correct Royal Purple motor oil and tranny fliuds do not work very well in these tranny's. I went for an extended hard hot drive Friday night. Lots of gravel and uphill loads on the engine and tranny, mostly 2nd and 3rd gears. By 200 miles, my shifting was getting harder. I had hot fluid, to the point it would burn my hand, and there was evidence of metal suspended in the fluid. Changed tranny fluid to straight Mobil 1, 10w-30. Went on same trip and shifting never changed or degraded from smooth to harder. I'll try and find the Quaker State mineral gear oil for next try.

TWO CONFESSIONS..............

There is a reason my moniker starts with idiot.......

I've thought that I had a spanky engine, horsepower, quick spooling...but on Friday I could not get rid of a mis-fire, stutter. Long story short, the button on the inside of my dizzy cap had broken so it was not touching the rotor and thus the energy had to arc to make contact and not "flow" by contact. Now I get to start all over again to tune my engine. But my gas milage increased a whole bunch.

Next I only have a four speed, not a five speed like I re-built my tranny and a four speed without reverse. When I rebuilt my tranny I had to tap in the reverse gear shaft and not slide in like all the others. I had three shafts to choose from and all were the same. By doing this, tapping in the shaft, the reverse gear would rotate around the shaft but not slide easily to engage in gear. This also meant that I did not have 5th gear as both reverse and 5th use the same shifter. I thought/hoped that use would wear the gear such that it would slide. 1200 miles later and no luck. I've found another running 99 that has a chillcast of which I'll part out, reclaim the chillcast, rebuild to a five/four speed with reverse this time. By this winter I should have two chillcast boxes, one 89 that I have yet to dismantle and one B202 to boar out and rebuild. Raul of times past has good info on this and has a very good thread for rebuild with all of SAAB parts, T7 head and so on.

I'm back to the wilds of Alaska..see ya in a spell.

pierre

idiot_saabvant
23rd September 2008, 09:00 AM
I'm resurrecting this thread so I can add to the tranny thread that Genty has started. And I'll be back home for a week after being gone for more than three. I'll post pics of the 99 I found with the chillcast I'm air freighting back home.

ps

idiot_saabvant
25th October 2008, 04:13 PM
It been awhile since I've touched base. I've been away from Anchorage because of work and had to return 1st of this month to help the missus move into our new house. I've upgraded to a detached garage that can fit three cars in it and still have room for sled, garden tractor and ALL my tools. I can even weld:cheesy: and even turn up my stereo to 1/2 way.We got ten acres at the end of a dead end road seven miles off the main highway. Need I say we are very remote.:cool:

But most importantly it is located where I like to drive and can do 150-250 miles in several hours and desolate curvy, hilly, gravel roads. Mostly 2-3 gears. With my power coming on around 4200 and building strongly to 6500, I'm spending a lot of time in second gear, as my engine can turn 5000-6500 very easily with little effort. This is taking some time getting used to, running such high rpms. Basically if I'm running 5000 rpm in 2nd, then I'm doing 50mph, 6000=60, 4000=40. It is scary how strong this engine is and how easily it spools. At 1679 miles after rebuild, the engine "broke in". It got way stronger and had less engine "vibration".

I attribute the increase in power (or the feeling there of) to two major things (yes there are the other small things....but). First the porting I did on the intake and exhaust streams. I probably took enough "shavings" from grinding of both intake and exhaust to fill 1/2 to 2/3 a cup (volume) if not more. I tried to smooth all casting as much as possible, no edges or lips or burrs. The variation from stock to ported varied from 6% to 14%. An average of 10%. I've always concentrated on the down stream (exhaust) porting for ease of flow, and is an emphasis in my mods.

Second to my surprise is the lightening of the flywheel (Okay the small things such as new sprockets, timing chain, valve springs, etc.). This helped the engine advance rpm very quickly. Yes starting from a dead stop takes some getting used to, but once the engine is at rpm, the spool up is quick, even to the point of minimising turbo "lag". I would deduct twice as much as the 1.4lbs I removed on third flywheel. I now think that a person's perception of turbo lag could be (greatly) influenced by a heavy flywheel. My turbo lag was greatly reduced by lightening the flywheel. This mod may not add hp, but the effects to the engine's overall performance is worth it, especially if using a "cost to benefit ratio".

I did get my 4spd '78 chillcast tranny I found in Ketchikan up to my new house. So now I have 2 working trannies ('78 4spd, '89 5spd) and "my first tranny rebuild" in BAAbS albeit without reverse.

I'll be fabbing up a steel diff for my '78 4spd. If I like the results, I could make more. I'll post pics soon.

ps

ejenner
26th October 2008, 03:58 AM
The aluminum flywheel I have is very light compared with the heavily lightened steel flywheel! I have recently lifted both of them because I had to transfer the centre bearing from the steel flywheel to the aluminum one. The aluminum one weighs about half the weight of the lightened steel flywheel.

http://www.red-green.co.uk/web/photos/gallery/images/full/crank_sensor_013.jpg


This is the steel one. As you can see, material has been removed from the outside edge, the middle and some also from the back. This one weighs about 7kg. I have not weighed the aluminum one.

http://www.red-green.co.uk/web/photos/gallery/images/full/engine_assembly_010.jpg


You can see... the same engine has both types of flywheels fitted. Initially I was going to use the lightened steel flywheel... but I was browsing SaabCentral classifieds one day and a new aluminum flywheel was being sold for very little money... from a project that never got going... the guy sold off the parts he bought.

I have a lightened steel flywheel on my 99 T16. It's nice because the car feels light to drive... like a small lady car... but then when boost kicks in you know it's a proper mans car. :lol:

I have the idle speed set high on my 99. It idles at about 1200rpm. That's just how it was after I did the DI/APC installation and I never bothered to correct it because I liked it. Having the high idle speed makes pulling away a lot easier.

Spool up does not start until around 4500rpm on my 99... it's pretty crazy. I was thinking about changing my gear ratios from type-7 down to type-6... it'll be a bit less good on the open road but better on the track... and the car is supposed to be a track car... so that's how I want it set up. I'm also going to fit the new ECU so I can change the ignition timing and increase the rev limit. That should help with the spool up time. I really want it to work between 3500 and 6500.

Have you ever noticed that the Saab engine seems to drop a lot of power higher up the RPM range - on a standard car... my 99 used to do this when I had the TE05 turbo but since changing to the T35 that performance drop has been masked... but what do you think causes that power drop? Cams or ports? Did you notice any difference in high rpm performance after porting the head on your car?

idiot_saabvant
26th October 2008, 09:00 PM
ejenner,

My engine falls flat at higher rpm because of timing.

1. Dizzy timing greatly limits these engines making optimum power throughout all rpm ranges. If I had MS, then the "flatness" at higher rpms would be minimised. I have a Volvo (G9) dizzy of which I can modify spring rate, vaccum rate both under vaccum and boost, but it more or less is an on/off timing system, not variable as MS.
2. Stock cam timing "runs" out around 5900-6200 or a little higher. I would have better power if I had more aggressive cams. I have yet to use the N/A-85 exhaust combo, but feel that after market cams are in order. The extra stiff valve springs I got from SD definitely helped with valve float above 6000 rpms.

Prior to porting, my engine flat-lined at 5200-5500 rpm. This with the same turbo set-up I have currently. My porting was very beneficial to getting power at higher rpms. These engines can make a lot of power (not torque!) at higher rpm. These engines are torquey by nature and I believe many people mistake the feel of torque for power as evidenced by the stock setup. Let one really use the power of these engines and be surprised. Remember power is the rate of torque.

ps

idiot_saabvant
17th November 2008, 10:27 PM
Happy Holidays!

I was able to use a work friend's shop this weekend and found enough spare metal to fab up a differential/rear cover plate. All materials are 1/4" so just the sides of the circular ring gear are 1/2 inch http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/BAAbS1/saabdifplate1 and from the side http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/BAAbS1/saabdif_plate2. Had to use a stick not MIG.

The car that I got my recent chillcast from http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/BAAbS1/99gl_002 had to pay extra for the moss.

New SAABLair, a drastic switch from the condo. 3 cars or 2+ my truck http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/BAAbS1/slair2 I have yet to get all my stuff in place, that well have to wait until I get back from work. My 78 chillcast and 8v '84 turbo http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/BAAbS1/sliar1 . I'll get her up in shape in late December, at least I got a job.

ps

ejenner
18th November 2008, 02:50 PM
some nice photos there. I like that 99 all covered in moss. And I like the picture showing the work area with a gearbox already mounted to a stand.

idiot_saabvant
28th December 2008, 11:46 AM
I've got to be home for three weeks and was able to get the garage fixed up to my liking. First I built a bench http://www.flickr.com/photos/33649991@N04/3143738037/, then I was able to install heat http://www.flickr.com/photos/33649991@N04/3144564812/ and finally I made a welding table http://www.flickr.com/photos/33649991@N04/3143737863/. The missus got her a new black dining room table and the deal was I could get one for the garage. Put the "logo" on it to insure she would not borrow it.

My first task was to get reverse working, so took tranny/engine out of car and found that my premise that reverse gear would work with a little time was true, but my execution was flawed. This little washer http://www.flickr.com/photos/33649991@N04/3144565066/ prevented reverse gear lever from rotating around the bushing http://www.flickr.com/photos/33649991@N04/3143738577/. When tightened to spec, the lever would not turn. So I combined the Townsend reverse gear modification with getting this lever/bushing to turn. I now have reverse and fifth gear. Something so simple. Thats why I picked the idiot part of my moniker. Finished efforts on welding table http://www.flickr.com/photos/33649991@N04/3144565590/.

I used a 8V intake tubing for new intake. The 8V tubing is 2mm larger in diameter. New lip http://www.flickr.com/photos/33649991@N04/3143738361/ and new nipples http://www.flickr.com/photos/33649991@N04/3143738167/. I'll have all new intake tubing from a 8V.

Next whilst the engine was out I upgraded the front engine mount with welds to stiffened up http://www.flickr.com/photos/33649991@N04/3144565454/ and http://www.flickr.com/photos/33649991@N04/3143738719/. I'll have BAAbs back on the road today and should be ready by the New Years Day when I embark on a 1000 mile odyssey to my work site in Ketchikan.

Cheers

pierre

ejenner
28th December 2008, 01:19 PM
Good work there. Shame you had to get everything out of the car just to twiddle the reverse gear linkage a bit. That can be done through the cover on the side - but I guess you know that! ;)

idiot_saabvant
30th December 2008, 11:18 AM
Thanks for the props ejenner, you always have something insightful and nice to say.

You are right in that I could have done this "in the car", but wanted to be able to perform some other things as well with the engine out. When I put the tranny back together, the reverse gear would not slide on the shaft. I thought that time would loosen it up and it did, but the washer ruined my execution.

I'll post pics today of final intake plumbing, my seven gauge panel with warning lights and switches (including my brake stealth mode switch).

Now I have to get my rear Bilstein HD shocks off the 89 SPG and put them on my 88, install the rear window louver and spoiler. I'll even be able to take a pic of 2 SAABs in SAAB Liar!

cheers,

pierre

idiot_saabvant
20th January 2009, 11:29 PM
Well I did not drive to Ketchikan as I was wanting to do. My travel dates had weather along the way of -70F or close to -55C. No way I was going to travel through these temperatures for over 500 miles (life or death then yes).

An update as to all the things I did in the interim (I was assuming I was driving to Ketchikan).

First headlight mounting fix http://www.flickr.com/photos/33649991@N04/3214623740/, plumbers tape, rivets and the all purpose JB Weld. Now I have a light I can adjust and not get flashed at by oncoming traffic for high beam:o.

I am using 8V turbo tubing now. The stock pipe between AMM and turbo is only 2mm or so different, but the tubing from the exit of compressor to IC is almost 6mm larger in diameter http://www.flickr.com/photos/33649991@N04/3214623932/ (a test weld for my chrome molly tubing I used for my BOV piping, really thin stuff, easy to burn thru). I like this mod as now my intake flow seems more matched with exhaust. My trim 60 T3/T4 really holds steady especially in the higher rpms. Now all my testing occurred in temperatures of -10F to -40F, so really skews results. One must realise that the oxygen content increases/decreases by 2-3% for every 10 degrees F in temperature change. I welded a third nipple into the AMM/turbo tubing for the BOV and used old snowmachine rubber http://www.flickr.com/photos/33649991@N04/3214624074/.

I also got my gauge panels finished http://www.flickr.com/photos/33649991@N04/3213776319/. Narrow band A/R, boost/vacuum, EGT, then stock volts, oil pressure, and ambient temp, then fuel pressure. Yellow LED is knock, green LED is APC on, not limp mode, yellow switch is brakes off for stealth mode, green unused at moment.

I lost privilege of my 88 license two years ago. No problem as I just used my 89 license. I did carry insurance and figured if a cop knew the difference between a 88 and a 89 SPG then my bad. How often do cops check VIN in routine traffic stop? So I got me a new license http://www.flickr.com/photos/33649991@N04/3213776473/ . Can one guess my age? At least now I am legal.

I also had to fabricate up a new exhaust bracket as my chillcast did not have mounting points as do the 5 spds http://www.flickr.com/photos/33649991@N04/3214624628/. You'll notice the splatter from a MIG w/o gas shield. Used old skid plate as bottom.

I was enjoying my new intake tubing so much I blew the turbo again after only 2 days from my rebuild. Nothing like boosting 18-22 psi and then hitting a cold spot of -35F in just several hundred feet (0F to -35F...almost instantaneous 10% change in power). Funny thing was I was increasing in elevation. Usually this means you increase temps, NOT decrease temps, well I heard a little **** then looked in the rear view mirror and saw a definite blue to my already blustery exhaust plume. Now I can take out/put in and rebuild a turbo in almost 6 hours. So one can see the stock thrust bearing vs a 360 degree bearing, a 360 degree oil seal (gapped seal) in the exhaust turbine, and a 44 trim 8V compressor vs a trim 60 on right http://www.flickr.com/photos/33649991@N04/3214624798/.

I am at remote work and have left my SAAB in working order and am bummed that it is not with me to keep me occupied and improving its functionality.

Good luck on everybody's work on their (cherished ? !) SAABs.

pierre

ejenner
25th January 2009, 04:44 AM
I wish I was at the same stage as you are with your car. Would be great to get back to the old days of little tweaks and minor repairs. Instead I'm thinking about rust repair and how/when I'm going to get the engine back in. The car is so close to being back on the road but still so far. I know there aren't may big steps but hundreds of little ones.

slapps
5th March 2009, 03:44 PM
Crazy et very nice :cool:

I'm impresse for yor tranny rebuilt ...
I'm thinking about this work for my tranny

idiot_saabvant
7th March 2009, 01:19 PM
Well I loaned my G9 stage II APC to a member of the SAAB circles and this is his reply hey I modded my box to these specs and holly s*** it gives about end of the red boost, I don't think it is safe, is this what you were at?

Well yes it was (I'll say that this person has been banned from this site, but is on others, and I respect his SAAB knowledge, but some take his opinions the wrong way). I'll also note that his testing was in temperatures of +60-75F. Imagine the boosting in temps of -10F to -30F? I've tried others and even have an SD stage III APC, and a Aero900 mod. The Aero900 is nice and smooth, but seems linear. Same with the SD. But my G9 goes smooth and then just kicks butt with a very aggressive "boost curve". Wish I could get my hands on a G9 stage III box.

Anyway, just nice to get props from a very knowledgeable person.

pierre

900t
7th March 2009, 02:04 PM
I don't know if he is giving you props maybe he is a little scared of your sanity :o :lol: 22 psi holy hell :lol:

wokke
7th March 2009, 07:31 PM
I finally got my pinion bearings from the stealership (only took three weeks and they lost my order), four of the remaining six are here in AK. And they suck! SGK or SFK manufactured in Mexico. Seem to have more play than what I've taken out.

Did you return the Mexican bearings? I thought that SKF was Saab original? Wasn't SKF a Swedish company? Is it really made in Mexico, or is it just assembled in Mexico?

I had read in the forum that Swedish steel is "denser" than other steel, and from this post it sounds like Mexican steel is soft? I asked a teacher about density, and they said that it can be measured. What is the difference in density measurement for Swedish steel versus Mexican steel? What about Timken...since you rejected the Saab original brand SKF and choose Timken?

idiot_saabvant
21st March 2009, 11:28 AM
After ten months on a job assignment...I'm back. Got my G9 back from Raul, and he sent a chip with it. Hmm he can program a chip alright. I got me a lethal car now. That chip really adds lots of power and my hybrid turbo works wonders now. I'm even getting 25mpg. Now cosmetic stuff to do as most mechanical has been restored.

ps

idiot_saabvant
29th March 2009, 07:22 PM
Nice to be home.

Got my sender unit for my fuel pressure gage installed http://www.flickr.com/photos/33649991@N04/3396143755/ just tapped the bolt and threaded the sender on. Sender would not fit straight out as clearance issues with hood so had to go 90. Tapped with drill style R and used NPT 1/8X27. These are "pipe" fittings so easy to find parts.

Made a shroud for my O2 sensor. Just something to do http://www.flickr.com/photos/33649991@N04/3396143761/ remnant of a 55 gallon drum I cut the top out of for my wood stove.

Pic of fuel pressure unit working. Low oil pressure leak in tranny/engine seal get up when at rpm. Fog lights on, and inside garage. http://www.flickr.com/photos/33649991@N04/3396143767/

Next up, is to begin search for T5 Trionic system so I can go direct ignition and get rid of that limiting dizzy.

pierre

idiot_saabvant
11th May 2009, 05:52 PM
Well I was in the process of building up a new down pipe that removed the mega restriction of the stock. http://www.flickr.com/photos/33649991@N04/3523629104. Made some progress as the snow helped cool down. Switched from flux core to gas and made welding much better http://www.flickr.com/photos/33649991@N04/3522823591.

My car was running so well that I took the missus for an extended ride south. Well I forgot about the inches of ash fall in that region, the fact that I just rebuilt/cleaned/oiled my K&N filter, so am powering down a back gravel road to get to a remote and hidden fishing/love hole and in 3rd gear, doing about 70mph, hard acceleration and the engine blew. Bummer, as 20 miles off main hwy, and 250 mile from home. Well missus wasn't to happy spending the night in the SAAB (but we did get some nice fish). Got her towed back to Lazy Mountain and BAAbS shall be parked for the summer. http://www.flickr.com/photos/33649991@N04/3523629368. There was ash all inside the intake plenum, and caked on the K&N filter, and the oil was VERY gritty. So apart comes the engine and we'll see how much work this is, or I'll just rebuild my 89 and use this as spare. This sucks as cash flow is NOT what is was a year or two ago. But I should be okay as I got two extra engines and two ready to drop in trannies, one of which is a rebuilt 78' chillcast four speed (which I really want to try out, with my N 7 primaries).

pierre