Who does AC work (R-12 refridgerant) in the Seattle area? [Archive] - SaabCentral Forums

: Who does AC work (R-12 refridgerant) in the Seattle area?


Yipcanjo
4th July 2007, 07:30 PM
The warm-ish weather in the Seattle area right now has reminded me that I really, really need to recharge my AC. I'm still on the original R-12 refridgerant, but I don't know who refills these units in the Seattle area. Any ideas? :confused:

Thanks!

Yip

Matthew
4th July 2007, 07:51 PM
No one probably. It's illegal to re-gas an automotive air con system with R12.

You'll need to re-gas with R134a instead including having the system converted (if necessary - opinions vary).

Yipcanjo
4th July 2007, 08:05 PM
Indeed. I was thinking (hoping) that finding someone to do R-12 would be cheaper/faster than converting, though R134 will certainly be cheaper in the long run.

Are folks generally happy with R134 conversions? Most of the quick lube shops around here will convert your system for around $200, which isn't too bad. The ol' Pacific Northwest doesn't get too insanely warm -- and certainly never for very long :p

Matt88S
4th July 2007, 09:43 PM
Indeed. I was thinking (hoping) that finding someone to do R-12 would be cheaper/faster than converting, though R134 will certainly be cheaper in the long run.

Are folks generally happy with R134 conversions? Most of the quick lube shops around here will convert your system for around $200, which isn't too bad. The ol' Pacific Northwest doesn't get too insanely warm -- and certainly never for very long :p

No, I'd stick with your R-12, it is still legal where you are at.

P.S. R-12 is getting really expensive and is bad for the environment, its best if you make sure its going to stay in there, ie don't just recharge, find out what caused it to leak, fix it, then hopefully go a very long time before you have to worry about it again.

scubasaab
4th July 2007, 10:06 PM
I did the conversion many years back and was quoted $200 tops... $700+ later and it's not as cold as the R-12, but it's pretty good. Definitely better than nothing:cheesy:

Yipcanjo
4th July 2007, 11:42 PM
I did the conversion many years back and was quoted $200 tops... $700+ later and it's not as cold as the R-12, but it's pretty good. Definitely better than nothing:cheesy:

Why $700? Was part of the AC system defective?

scubasaab
4th July 2007, 11:53 PM
No, the guys were crooks and even said "this double hose was about $90!"
Yeah and what? That double hose failed last year and I just replaced it along with the expansion valve and new freon. That and an oil change plus a few diagnostics ran me $400 with my mechanic. The other guys also tried to replace my heater control valve and took the dash apart (after I told them, DON'T and how the procedure was done) a 45 min job ran 7 hours and the car was still not put back together the next day. I put it back in order with the guys brother and got charged for the full labor time...:evil: Jerks!!
This was when I first got the car and did not know it well at all and obviously, neither did they!!

Matthew
5th July 2007, 09:38 AM
No, I'd stick with your R-12, it is still legal where you are at.
Interesting. I thought that R12 was banned throughout the US.

In that case, definitely stick with R12. It's what the 900's air con system was designed to run on.

Asan aside, my EPC lists a compressor for a "converted AC system". It's part 7495484. Anyone know more about that? Is it a higher-pressure compressor designed to work with R134a?

900t
5th July 2007, 02:12 PM
Interesting. I thought that R12 was banned throughout the US.

In that case, definitely stick with R12. It's what the 900's air con system was designed to run on.

Asan aside, my EPC lists a compressor for a "converted AC system". It's part 7495484. Anyone know more about that? Is it a higher-pressure compressor designed to work with R134a?

R12 is pretty much banned throughout the world to be manufactured.

However, you can still install R12 in an air con system, but all this R12 is actually recycled from salvage cars, etc with fancy machines.

IMO the main reason for the inefficiency of R134a -converted 900's is the condenser.

Matthew
5th July 2007, 02:19 PM
Also interesting :D Why do you say that about the condensor, and what would you do to solve that problem?

Yipcanjo
5th July 2007, 02:41 PM
Now I remember why I didn't do this in the past.... QUOTES ranging from $200 to $800! Sheesh!! :roll:

Let's see...
$360 to recharge the R12, or
$200 to convert to R134, or
$800 to convert to R134, or
$1100 to convert to R134

Is it really that complicated??

Jim Mesthene
5th July 2007, 02:52 PM
Most manufacturers, when faced with the need to change refrigerant, simply switched to plastic-lined hoses to reduce leakage and increased the size of the condenser.
The increased condenser size compensated for the performance difference between the refrigerants. The virtue of R12 is its great latent heat of evaporation; a lot of energy is stored in the phase change (gas to liquid and back to gas). R134a works the same, but stores less energy. The increased evaporator size transfers more energy; to overcome the limitation.
A bigger compressor won't help, the evaporator is big enough. To match R12 performance (a small difference) you need to increase condenser size or efficiency (better cooling).
Increase air flow, cool the condenser another way (water), or Mickey Mouse a bigger condenser to improve performance of R134a.

IronJoe
5th July 2007, 08:15 PM
$360 to recharge the R12, or
$200 to convert to R134, or
$800 to convert to R134, or
$1100 to convert to R134


Where did you get the quote to recharge with R12? I need to do this in my new-to-me SPG.

Matt88S
5th July 2007, 08:29 PM
Interesting. I thought that R12 was banned throughout the US.

In that case, definitely stick with R12. It's what the 900's air con system was designed to run on.

Asan aside, my EPC lists a compressor for a "converted AC system". It's part 7495484. Anyone know more about that? Is it a higher-pressure compressor designed to work with R134a?

No, the use of it was never banned. It's manufacture was and carmakers were required to have its use phased out by 94/95 on new vehicles.
I'd bet on your EPC list compressor that the only thing different about it is the oil it has in it.

Now I remember why I didn't do this in the past.... QUOTES ranging from $200 to $800! Sheesh!! :roll:

Let's see...
$360 to recharge the R12, or
$200 to convert to R134, or
$800 to convert to R134, or
$1100 to convert to R134

Is it really that complicated??


I bought a case (12 cans) of R-12 last year for about $200 off ebay. They claimed it was new old stock and that they required a license. It wasn't and they didn't. Little known fact is that R-12 is still manufactured, not in the US, but still manufactured in a little country down south of the border. That might explain my why they never asked for my license info and why the lettering on the cans was not in english....:roll:

Later in the year as we were entering winter they emailed me an offer to buy more at an end of the year price. It was tempting, it was less than R-134a sells for locally. :o But I try not to knowingly support the black market. :roll: I probably should have stocked up. :D

Anyhow, I guess what I'm saying, is that if you do it yourself, for that kind of cash, you could complelely rebuild the A/C system and put R-12 back in it. ;)

Matthew
5th July 2007, 08:35 PM
Wicked :D Do they ship to the UK? :D

IronJoe
5th July 2007, 08:41 PM
About AC... In general, are the compressors no good after the lines are disconnected? I had to disconnect my lines when I removed a damaged condensor.

Matt88S
5th July 2007, 08:45 PM
Wicked :D Do they ship to the UK? :D

They probably would. :roll: Ask away, he only sells by the case though. clevenhagenjs@yahoo.com
Hello,
You ordered Freon from me off E-Bay and I wanted to let you know about a huge sale I am having. Because it is getting closer to the end of season for many of you. I am discounting the Freon to only $10.50 a can plus shipping!!!

This may be a great time to stock up a few extra cans! You do not have to buy 12, 24 or 36 cans like most of you have bought before NO..if you only need 1 can or 5 cans it is your time to order NOW!

Email me and we can set everything up and I can get these delivered to you. I want to take a moment and say a special Thank You for your business this year...

Regards,

James Clevenhagen



Is it legal over there? If not you might want to try this stuff, its a R-12 blend if I recall right. I've used it before, it gets wicked cold, perhaps not as good as actual R-12 but better than 134a and thats in 100+ deg Oklahoma summers.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1-Case-Freeze-12-Freon-R12-REPLACEMENT-12-12oz-Can_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ46094QQihZ011QQitem Z320133680873QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1-Case-Freeze-12-Freon-R12-REPLACEMENT-12-12oz-Can_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ46094QQihZ011QQitem Z320133680873QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW)

Matt88S
5th July 2007, 08:50 PM
About AC... In general, are the compressors no good after the lines are disconnected? I had to disconnect my lines when I removed a damaged condensor.

No, you are thinking of your drier, leaving the system open, even for as little as a few minuets, can ruin the dessicant bag inside. eeuroparts.com has them for only $15-20 though. Really you should replace them regardless, you have to open the system to repace them so you really don't want to recharge your system then have to evac just because a $15 part is bad. ;) I'd also replace all the seals and hoses. I'd look at it as an investment, do you want 5-10 years of service out of this recharge or do you want to wake up 3weeks or 3months down the road and find your $$ freon has leaked out...:p

Matthew
5th July 2007, 09:40 PM
I'd also replace all the seals and hoses.
My EPC has only two part numbers for the hoses - 9482365 and 9482027. Do you know if those part numbers refer to a set of hoses?

Yipcanjo
5th July 2007, 09:41 PM
So... I had a local place to me (Gateway Auto Repair (http://maps.google.com/maps?hl=en&safe=active&client=firefox-a&q=gateway+automotive&near=Seattle,+WA&fb=1&view=text&latlng=47777530,-122308391,15509128073768470496) -- a hole-in-the-wall shop) fill up my R12 + labor for about $250. Not too bad, I guess. (It's not "from Mexico" pricing!)

Here's the sad part, though...

As I was leaving, the A/C was blowing nice and cold. About 10 minutes later, however, it was no longer very cold. :cry: The A/C is kicking on just fine, but it simply lost most of its "coldness" -- just that fast!!! I know that these systems perform *optimally* at the right low/high PSI. Could it be that we've still undercharged it? Anyone know what the low/high PSI levels ought to be??

Thanks for your help...

Yip

Matt88S
5th July 2007, 10:06 PM
So... I had a local place to me (Gateway Auto Repair (http://maps.google.com/maps?hl=en&safe=active&client=firefox-a&q=gateway+automotive&near=Seattle,+WA&fb=1&view=text&latlng=47777530,-122308391,15509128073768470496) -- a hole-in-the-wall shop) fill up my R12 + labor for about $250. Not too bad, I guess. (It's not "from Mexico" pricing!)

Here's the sad part, though...

As I was leaving, the A/C was blowing nice and cold. About 10 minutes later, however, it was no longer very cold. :cry: The A/C is kicking on just fine, but it simply lost most of its "coldness" -- just that fast!!! I know that these systems perform *optimally* at the right low/high PSI. Could it be that we've still undercharged it? Anyone know what the low/high PSI levels ought to be??

Thanks for your help...

Yip

Was it cool in the shop but hot and sunny outside?

Matthew, that may be right, only two hoses. If I recall right there are four hoses/tubes all total, two of which are connected together at the compressor and sold as one, one that runs from the evaporator to the drier, and a metal tube that runs from the drier to the condensor. The metal tube might listed under something other than hoses if they even sell them, they don't really go bad.

Yipcanjo
6th July 2007, 02:06 AM
Was it cool in the shop but hot and sunny outside?

Not especially.

The Bentley manual mentions a little glass window (near the battery) that gives the condition of the air conditioner fill-state. I found that little window, but it didn't give me much info. Anyone ever found that window helpful?

From my earlier question... anyone know the ideal low/high PSI ratings?

K-900
6th July 2007, 03:58 AM
Helpful information about to come :cool:

There is an EXACT replacement drop in for R12 Gas which is fully legal, and requires no conversion. I will find out the gas name today and post later. I used this in my old c900 when I used to work as a mechanic, it was nice and as cold as the old R12. The R134a is not as cold.

And also to note: it was not expensive either!

The classic 900 system holds 900 grams of refridgerant for anyone asking.

Kenny :D

Jim Mesthene
6th July 2007, 10:20 AM
The Bentley manual mentions a little glass window (near the battery) that gives the condition of the air conditioner fill-state. I found that little window, but it didn't give me much info. Anyone ever found that window helpful?

From my earlier question... anyone know the ideal low/high PSI ratings?
The sight glass is vital for detecting bubbles in the system (they even make a tool called an Electronic Sight Glass for cars not equipped with the real thing).
You should see a rush of bubbles when the compressor engages or disengages. While engaged you should only see occasional bubbles; more when the condenser is hot, fewer when the condenser is cooled (by a fan or water). Other than measuring how much you add, this is really the only way to determine the amount of charge in the system. Pressures vary so much depending on ambient temperature, interior temperature, condenser temperature and the expansion valve, that you can't determine the charge state from pressure.
If you never see any bubbles in the sight glass, it's either empty or overcharged.

One popular replacement gas is Freeze-12. This stuff is a drop-in replacement for R-12. It's mostly R-134a with a dash of propane. The propane is compatible with the R-12 oil; that's what it's there for. There's not enough propane to be a fire danger. The only thing wrong with Freeze-12 is that the gas is no more efficient than straight R-134a so you may as well just convert it; 134a is cheaper and more universally serviceable.

SaabMon
6th July 2007, 01:01 PM
The sight glass is vital for detecting bubbles in the system (they even make a tool called an Electronic Sight Glass for cars not equipped with the real thing).
You should see a rush of bubbles when the compressor engages or disengages. While engaged you should only see occasional bubbles; more when the condenser is hot, fewer when the condenser is cooled (by a fan or water). Other than measuring how much you add, this is really the only way to determine the amount of charge in the system. Pressures vary so much depending on ambient temperature, interior temperature, condenser temperature and the expansion valve, that you can't determine the charge state from pressure.
If you never see any bubbles in the sight glass, it's either empty or overcharged.

One popular replacement gas is Freeze-12. This stuff is a drop-in replacement for R-12. It's mostly R-134a with a dash of propane. The propane is compatible with the R-12 oil; that's what it's there for. There's not enough propane to be a fire danger. The only thing wrong with Freeze-12 is that the gas is no more efficient than straight R-134a so you may as well just convert it; 134a is cheaper and more universally serviceable. I had my AC serviced and charged on my 92 c900 with freeze 12 about a year ago and it's still blowing cold.I think I paid about $80.

Yipcanjo
6th July 2007, 01:11 PM
The sight glass is vital for detecting bubbles in the system (they even make a tool called an Electronic Sight Glass for cars not equipped with the real thing).
You should see a rush of bubbles when the compressor engages or disengages. While engaged you should only see occasional bubbles; more when the condenser is hot, fewer when the condenser is cooled (by a fan or water). Other than measuring how much you add, this is really the only way to determine the amount of charge in the system. Pressures vary so much depending on ambient temperature, interior temperature, condenser temperature and the expansion valve, that you can't determine the charge state from pressure.
If you never see any bubbles in the sight glass, it's either empty or overcharged.

Thanks for that info, Jim. My system *might* be overcharged, which (I believe) can really affect its ability to cool as well...

One popular replacement gas is Freeze-12. This stuff is a drop-in replacement for R-12. It's mostly R-134a with a dash of propane. The propane is compatible with the R-12 oil; that's what it's there for. There's not enough propane to be a fire danger. The only thing wrong with Freeze-12 is that the gas is no more efficient than straight R-134a so you may as well just convert it; 134a is cheaper and more universally serviceable.

When I'm quoted $880+ for an R134a conversion, using Freeze-12 seems pretty worthwhile to me! :p

Jim Mesthene
6th July 2007, 01:17 PM
When I'm quoted $880+ for an R134a conversion, using Freeze-12 seems pretty worthwhile to me!
Go to your local auto parts store, buy a $35 conversion kit, follow the directions. Ignore all the alarmist stuff about changing O-rings, flushing etc.

montekranz
6th July 2007, 02:05 PM
I just couldn't wait for an A/C post to tell you all this....

When my ac went bad, I bought a pneumatic vacuum pump on E-bay for $10. I flushed my system with an AC flush, and blew air through it to dry it out. Then reassembled with new o-rings as needed. I vaccuumed the system for about an hour at about 28 in/hg vacuum. I added oil, in the form of detergentless mineral oil, 30 weight, $1.50/quart, in the amounts described in the Bently manual. Then I filled with R290, which most of you know as STRAIGHT PROPANE. I added popane until the low side read about 38-40 psi at idle after stabilizing. Cost of propane $3.00.

This system runs so COLD that the thermal switch will cut power to the pump. I've never had R12 in this car, but I don't see how R12 could be any colder than the propane I am using now. I havent had any problems with this system, and I personally am not worried about safety. I've personally witnessed an R12 fire, and trust me, I burns just as well as propane.

Another thing, propane is compatible with mineral oil (used with R12) and PAG oil (Used with 134a).

Jim Mesthene
6th July 2007, 02:25 PM
I've personally witnessed an R12 fire, and trust me, I burns just as well as propane.

R-12, a Chloro-flourocarbon, is a close chemical relative of Halon, the stuff used in fire extinguishers. R-12 does not burn, it extinguishes fires.

900t
6th July 2007, 02:54 PM
Yeah that R-12 probably WAS propane and that is why it burned like propane :lol:

Yipcanjo
6th July 2007, 02:55 PM
Go to your local auto parts store, buy a $35 conversion kit, follow the directions. Ignore all the alarmist stuff about changing O-rings, flushing etc.

Now THAT is what I like to hear! :p

Yipcanjo
6th July 2007, 02:56 PM
I've personally witnessed an R12 fire, and trust me, I burns just as well as propane.

The side of the R-12 canister at my local mechanic specifically said "non-flammable".

K-900
6th July 2007, 03:58 PM
Back again, a direct replacement for R12 gas is 413a ;)

Kenny.

cdaly
6th July 2007, 04:08 PM
Yipcanjo, I would say that before you go getting conversion kits or gas refills, you should find out where the leak is. If your system is overfull, it will still cool. You might get icing of the hose back to the compressor as well which is a bit of a problem but it will cool.

If you can't see bubbles in the sight glass, I'd say you have an empty system...

Matt88S
6th July 2007, 04:21 PM
The side of the R-12 canister at my local mechanic specifically said "non-flammable".

However exposed to open flame it will form hydrofluoric and hydrochloric acid as well as phosgene gas, a mild nerve gas used in WWI. It is also heavier than air and can cause asphyxiation if you are working in a pit or such area where it might accumulate.

Jim Mesthene
6th July 2007, 05:39 PM
Yeah that R-12 probably WAS propane and that is why it burned like propane :lol:From the administration:
"900t has exceeded their stored private messages quota and can not accept further messages until they clear some space."

montekranz
6th July 2007, 05:52 PM
Thank you Matt88S!! When burnt (or "exposed to open flames") R12 does produce phosgene gas which is highly deadly. And when I said I personally observed a R12 fire, I am telling the truth. While burning trash, which included an old airconditioner, I saw a green flame about 7 feet long shoot out of the airconditioner with the force that looked like a rocket engine :D . It was amazing, and IT DID BURN!! Maybe it was a combination of the oil and R12, I don't know, but I am not lying :nono; . I am only telling everyone what I have personally seen, nothing more, nothing less.

900t
6th July 2007, 06:36 PM
From the administration:
"900t has exceeded their stored private messages quota and can not accept further messages until they clear some space."

Fixed.

Don't fridges run R-22 (propane)?

Jim Mesthene
6th July 2007, 06:56 PM
.

Don't fridges run R-22?
Yes, so do domestic A/C units.
Check the web for horror stories about putting propane in cars.

Yipcanjo
6th July 2007, 08:36 PM
Yipcanjo, I would say that before you go getting conversion kits or gas refills, you should find out where the leak is. If your system is overfull, it will still cool. You might get icing of the hose back to the compressor as well which is a bit of a problem but it will cool.

If you can't see bubbles in the sight glass, I'd say you have an empty system...

Ugh. I hope not.

Basically, the system turns on, so I'm pretty sure it's not totally empty. Before filling up, the low pressure side was reading about 5 psi. We filled up a bit -- about 35 psi on the low side (maybe 150 - 200 psi on the high side) and the A/C was feeling pretty good. After leaving the A/C was also fine for about 10 minutes -- then the air was lukewarm. :cry:

So.... could I have lost my R-12 that quickly? That'd be a nice $250 out the window (literally)...:(

Jim Mesthene
6th July 2007, 08:44 PM
If the compessor engages but it doesn't cool, you need guages to see what's happening.

mr rx-7 tt
6th July 2007, 11:29 PM
I had mine converted a while back and it never was as cold as the R-12. Last year I changed the dryer and recharged the system and now it does blow pretty cold. I can buy R-12 locally but I think the 134 is working well enough now so I 'll probaly just leave well enough alone.

saturn
7th July 2007, 12:39 AM
1986 900S 16V non-turbo
Ok guys, for your info, my AC was not running cold since couple of weeks ago. It has R12 in it. I looked around and asked at least 9 or 10 shops for a little bit of R12 top off. All of them said the system must be evacuated (for $49.99) and any amount of R12 it takes would be $60/lb. However, this price for R12 varied from shop to shop between $60 to $74 per pound of R12. They know people with old systems have no choice, either convert the system to R134, which is not as cold as R12 and is costly or pay the price for R12.
Eventually, i found a shop, which gave me two options: R12 for $60/lb or Freeze12, which is a compatible gas with R12 for $30/lb. Now, probably Freeze 12 costs only few bucks for the shop but they sell it at $30/lb., bloody modern pirates!:evil:
Anyway, after evacuating and recharging the system, the technician pointed a laser thermometer at the outlet on the dash and it read 48 degrees F at idle! :suprised; But when I held my hand on front of the outlet, it didn't feel that cold. He said it's going to be cooler when you drive. I wonder if his thermometer was faulty or my skin is too thick!!!
I haven't had a chance to measure the temprature myself yet and mind you that when i hit the road after 15 minutes, AC wasn't any cooler than the idle!
So, i am not sure what to do myself because it seems eventually, every car's AC has to run with an environmentally safe gas and it seems there is no choice except coversion to R134.
I appreciate any insight regarding this matter.

Stay cool!


saturn

900t
7th July 2007, 01:02 AM
If you guys really want to have A/C just buy a GM car or something. GM cars always have good aircon...

SaabMon
7th July 2007, 01:10 AM
If you guys really want to have A/C just buy a GM car or something. GM cars always have good aircon...Easy for you to say ,living in Canada.Try living in South Florida without AC. I have another car.A 2006 Mazda 3/5 door.(boring).I prefer the Saab c900!:cool:

TROLLhattenschatten
7th July 2007, 04:04 AM
There is another "drop-in"...it's called R406a.

Not shure where to get it but it is a mix of R22, isobutane (lighter fluid) and something else...

Jim Mesthene
7th July 2007, 10:49 AM
...a mix of R22, isobutane (lighter fluid) and something else...Trinitrotoluene?

Matthew
7th July 2007, 01:41 PM
TNT? :o

Sounds interesting :D TNT is toxic and harmful to the environment, I doubt its use in domestic air conditioning systems would be approved http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/images/icons/icon_question.gif

Yipcanjo
7th July 2007, 02:43 PM
I'm *seriously* thinking about checking out Enviro-Safe in my system. Reviews I've seen have been good.

http://www.es-refrigerants.com/products/w/id/207/t/master-recharge-auto-kit/details.asp

Thoughts anyone?? :suprised;

Yip

Jim Mesthene
7th July 2007, 03:32 PM
Thoughts anyone??
I found a Material Safety Data Sheet on it. It's propane/iso-butane.

Yipcanjo
7th July 2007, 05:06 PM
I found a Material Safety Data Sheet on it. It's propane/iso-butane.

Is that a bad thing? It appears to be somewhat flammable, but not alarmingly so....

900t
7th July 2007, 05:30 PM
No propane/iso-butane is good stuff... IMO one of the best refrigerants for automotive use... you can get something very close to R-12 for practically nothing (what's 250g of propane? 8 cents?)

Yipcanjo
7th July 2007, 07:15 PM
No propane/iso-butane is good stuff... IMO one of the best refrigerants for automotive use... you can get something very close to R-12 for practically nothing (what's 250g of propane? 8 cents?)

Can I just add it in on top of my existing R-12?

TROLLhattenschatten
8th July 2007, 03:11 AM
Why don't all cars run propane as a refridgerant??

montekranz
8th July 2007, 03:15 PM
I believe I already suggested this :cool:

Matt88S
8th July 2007, 07:53 PM
Why don't all cars run propane as a refridgerant??
So your evaporator springs a leak, your refrigerant of choice, propane, all empties into the cab. Troll lights his cigar and this happens.



http://www.trollhattansaab.net/images/sotw/fire.jpg

Troll is very unhappy.

This concludes today’s lesson.

Yipcanjo
9th July 2007, 12:34 AM
On a positive note, I took my SAAB back to the shop where I had the R-12 refilled. We messed with it a bit longer -- checked the high/low pressure some more (it was a bit low) -- and verified that it was blowing cold. Seems to be ok now. Later on, however, I found that my A/C switch is a bit persnickety. I just purchased a new (used) one and will see if that helps.

Long and the short of it? My A/C is working once again and blows nice and cold!! :p

Thanks, everyone, for the help...

Yip

TROLLhattenschatten
10th July 2007, 02:25 AM
Uhh...hmm...you will learn to take better care of your car real quick though :cheesy:

There! that's my comeback! ;)

woywitka
3rd August 2007, 11:05 PM
Guys, great posts on here. Except people asking about putting LPG in an car A/C system:o WTF!


anywho...

Would changing the condensor to a new unit help with the cooling ability?

I would like to rebuild my A/C system over time. I think I will change the rad on my car, or at least flush it out anyways, so while in there, replace the dryer, O rings and maybe the condensor?. I would like to buy all new o-rings, a new main hose unit, and source a good price on a used Compressor. RIght now the compressor is siezed and I have a weak charge of r-12.

I'm thinking that R134A sucks, but I will be changing the reciever dryer, all the o-rings, and get a system evac done then get it gassed with r-134a.

To save money I will buy the parts over time. Well I'm going to California next week so I will order some stuff from eeuroparts.com and save on the import BS, plus with the American Economy falling down the stairs our Canadian dollar is like 96cents to a USD.:o -wow that makes things cheap!