"The amount of oxygen, in turn, is decided by the air/fuel ratio in the cylinder during combustion. The ideal ratio is 1 part fuel to 14.6 parts air. If the mixture is richer, carbon monoxide and hydrocarbon emissions will increase. If the mixture is leaner, NOx emissions will increase."
"A stoichiometric mixture is the working point that modern engine management systems employing fuel injection attempt to achieve in light load cruise situations. For gasoline fuel, the stoichiometric air/fuel mixture is approximately 14.7 times the mass of air to fuel. Any mixture less than 14.7 to 1 is considered to be a rich mixture, any more than 14.7 to 1 is a lean mixture - given perfect (ideal) "test" fuel (gasoline consisting of solely n-heptane and iso-octane)."
I've been meaning to get pics of my setup but have not had the time to find a camera and take a pic of mine. I had asked Nick if he could import the double pods and sure enough next day they were listed and I pulled the trigger.
The reason you want an a/f ratio of 13:1 under boost is so that pre-detonation isn't occuring and to help cool the pistons and cylinder walls. If your running full boost up to redline with a 14.5:1 ratio I would get it checked out or find the way to calibrate the gauge if thats possible.
Hey does anyone else have pictures of their guages and pods. I want to do an a-pilar but I am not sure. I think it would look sporting on my black 9-3 convertible. Also where did you run the lines for your wideband? Do you have any pics of the installation?
Sorry Kuntekente, the convertible a-pillars are different. They had to be made stronger. You'll have to do something like a generic pod and get it molded to fit.
Ok, so I did some test. Around town I stay between 14.5 -15.1 when I go WOT, I drop to 12.1 -12.9 and hold there. Everything seems to be working great.
Yeah nahum had it right, its a kill switch for the A/F gauge and the boost gauge back lighting. I hardly use it but its nice to have there at night sometimes.
Yeah nahum had it right, its a kill switch for the A/F gauge and the boost gauge back lighting. I hardly use it but its nice to have there at night sometimes.
HEHE night panel for the win. When I hit night panel it dims that back lighting just right so that you still have enough to have a general idea of where the dials are but not enough to blind you.
To get it that way, all you have to do is tap power from the ciggy lighter ring, the one that glows green around the ciggy lighter. Its an ingenious way to run the setup.
Well thanks guys for that info on the a-pillar I would have bought this and ran into problems. This stinks I wanted to do some guages but I do not want to put them anywhere else. Maybe I will put up a boost guage on my steering column. Thats what I wanted but as for a wideband I will have to pass.
Well thanks guys for that info on the a-pillar I would have bought this and ran into problems. This stinks I wanted to do some guages but I do not want to put them anywhere else. Maybe I will put up a boost guage on my steering column. Thats what I wanted but as for a wideband I will have to pass.
You not out of luck man. Use your headlight switch location for the a/f after you mount the boost on the steering wheel. All you need to do is file down the lip inside the dash location of the headlight swtich and voila its perfect. Thats where my narrowband is at with oil and boost up in the a-pillar pod.
You not out of luck man. Use your headlight switch location for the a/f after you mount the boost on the steering wheel. All you need to do is file down the lip inside the dash location of the headlight swtich and voila its perfect. Thats where my narrowband is at with oil and boost up in the a-pillar pod.
I really like the idea of the gauge in the light switch location but how do you control your lights now?
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